Help with newly introduced Motoro stingray. !!
- Thread starter Pataphysicist
- Start date
Not sure if they would do anything about it, i could give it a try i guess but 2.0 right out of tap water makes it very hard for me to treat the water before it goes in the tank. cause even if i treat it. I dont know if its good enough to not leave any or low trace of ammonia behind. :/
But that 2.0 was the tank water after the ray had been dead in it for how long? What is your actual ammonia readings straight out of tap. If it is 2.0 you have issues but if it was that high then your other fish would show some type of distress.
If its trace then setup a drip. I still would lean towards lack of filtration/bio media.
Either way I would call to find out why there is any ammonia in your water supply.
You can only dilute ammonia until bio breaks it down or detoxify ammonia.
If its trace then setup a drip. I still would lean towards lack of filtration/bio media.
Either way I would call to find out why there is any ammonia in your water supply.
You can only dilute ammonia until bio breaks it down or detoxify ammonia.
The 2.0 Ammonia its the water and and its also the reading of the water coming straight from the tap. I have no idea why my other fish don't care for the high ammonia, the rest of my stock has grown into the tank so maybe the adapted to the high ammonia in water? not sure but everyone else eats just fine and are showing no irregular signs. My bio filtration is pretty decent. an eheim 2262 packed with Biohome / Eheim Substrate Pro / Porus ceramic rings / and 1 gallon of Seachem matrix. no mechanical filtration in it , all bio.
2.0 out of tap is extremely high. I would definitley call water supply. Meanwhile take a sample of your tap water to a lfs or pool place and have them test it just to confirm your results. Or even take it someplace else with more credibility like a water testing facility if need be. Never heard of 2.0 out of tap.
I would not introduce any new rays in there until you get it figured out.
I would not introduce any new rays in there until you get it figured out.
going to do a quick test again and ill post pictures of the results. Also is there any reason why my tank water has a PH reading of 6.0 and my tap water is 7.0 which is ideal? and what are the benefits or downside of having low PH ( 6.0 ). I don't think ill be getting a new ray anytime soon, until i see or figure out a way how to get rid of the huge ammonia coming out of my tap water. Even thinking in installing a system for my tap water. Here are some shots on how badly she was being burnt by ammonia, really gets too you when an animal so beautiful dies due to our mistakes . Also posting a pic of my tap water ammonia reading. 2.0 again.. might seem 1.0 in pic due to light hitting right on the test tube.
I would check with your local municipality to see if they treated with additional ammonia?
The answer to dealing with chlorine, ammonia and chloramine is to use Prime/SAFE or an equivalent product. Allowing water to age before adding it to tank will allow pH to stabilize. In addition, agingwater can off gas chlorine but not chloramine.
Prime and other water conditioners bind ammonia. Then ammonia is slowly released and metabolizied into nitirite and on to nitrate. Some test kits will measure total ammonia (both free and bound). Bound ammonia is not toxic as it is bound.
If nitrate in tank is very high (40 ppm or higher), it maybe that nitrogen cycle is running in reverse. This is not likely but it is possible.
Sorry for your loss
Treat the aged water with Prime or AquaScience and put some coral chips in your tank to buffer the PH.
Treat the aged water with Prime or AquaScience and put some coral chips in your tank to buffer the PH.
