HOB Filter as a HOB Overflow???

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
bitteraspects;3671226; said:
Its obvious that no amount of information is going to "convince" you, so like I said, tr it cor yourself and see what happens.
Make sure you do it on a large tank in your living room. ;)

:ROFL: Do it..Do it:ROFL:
 
I fairly simple float switch would negate the need for any pump synchronizing. Have a bigger pump in your sump. When the float reaches a certain point the sump turns on. When the water level in the sump drops to a predetermined point the pump turns off and the sump refills.

The water level in your tank would fluctuate, but it would solve the problem of needing to match pump outputs exactly.
 
kallmond;3672900; said:
I fairly simple float switch would negate the need for any pump synchronizing. Have a bigger pump in your sump. When the float reaches a certain point the sump turns on. When the water level in the sump drops to a predetermined point the pump turns off and the sump refills.

The water level in your tank would fluctuate, but it would solve the problem of needing to match pump outputs exactly.


NOW THERES AN IDEA!!! I never thought to use a float switch.

bitteraspects- I have a huge amount of respect for your DIY skills/knowledge & I love the re-plumbed AC70 I built from your thread. There is an amount of information that would convince me, which is why I responded to your particular post. Let's keep it civil, but can you address some of my previous questions & the float switch idea? Seems like the float switch would help with the HOB idea too... Thanks Bro!
 
BAHAHAHHAAH.

i hope youre familiar with the wiring youre going to need to make something like that. because its not just plug and play.

heres chompers diagram. hope this makes sense to you.

1_Basics.gif


youre right. with enough time and money put in to two submersible pumps, and relays, and wiring all the crap youre going to need to make something like this... it would work.

ooooooor.....

you could stop trying to reinvent the wheel and build a PVC overflow for less than the cost of the relay you need to run the float switch.
in the end, its all just a bunch of useless unnecessary and expensive crap (considering what the 2 pumps alone will cost you if you want to get any kind of real water flow in your tank) to provide the same function. and then youre still left with the scenario that when (not if) one of the pumps goes out completely, the float switch will cause the whole system to stop running all together.

but hey. go for it. :ROFL:
 
Here we are, page 4 of a re-hashed idea that sticks it`s head up every once in a while.
Hmmmm, what does that say about time on my hands.
Dude, stop posting and build the thing…or not.
Talk is cheap.
Prove everybody wrong.
Show us the trick that made yours work, while all the others have failed.
Conjecture and argument will not move a single drop of water.
I`ve bucked the forums collective wisdom more than once, on projects.
Know what…
They were right.
That is beside the point.
If you are so convinced this is a good idea, prove it.
 
I'm not advocating that this idea is better than a gravity fed syphon system, and I pretty much agree with KaiserSousay that its about time for this thread to shi% or get off the pot.

But, since it was originally my idea, float switches aren't all that complex, they are in fact plug and play. $40 gets you a pretty nice one from grainger.
 
bitteraspects;3671675; said:
how do you figure an overflow box is any safer or more efficiant than a PVC overflow?

An overflow box is at the same risk of cavitation and shut down as any other overflow system, along with any other risks associated with using a wet/dry system. And since the mechanical function of any surface skimming overflow (be it PVC, box, or drilled) is going to be the same based on how the return/ powerheads/ etc are plumbed, that leaves flowrate v. price.
Since you can build an overflow with a higher flow rate for a mere fraction of the cost, and it will be just as effective and safe to use, seems to be a no brainer.

Then there's the option of building a "bottom siphon" style overflow. While you would need to go with a slightly larger diameter PVC to get that same 1300gph flow rating, the bottom siphon overflow offers all the same functions as the above mentioned overflow systems, but also gives you the added benefit of increased mechanical filtration.

So again, in intrigued to ask. Why is a overflow box "better" than a PVC overflow? Because its more expensive?

I did mention that the tubing would look ugly in the tank so thats why i would prefer overflow box. Just my opinion. I rather pay..
 
nfored;3672604; said:
I like overflow boxes, as they take up less room in the tank, I am pretty picky about what you can see in the tank. I have mine drilled and I hate that I have to have teh 90's showing where it drains out. However this idea the OP has will work just not well

Thats what i am saying. It is the best alternative if you want a good looking tank. :)
 
Miguel4u2;3675430; said:
I did mention that the tubing would look ugly in the tank so thats why i would prefer overflow box. Just my opinion. I rather pay..

i understand that, but that has nothing to do with the post i was referencing.

heres the short version.

Miguel4u2;3671306; said:
It is the best,safest, and most successful alternative for a non-drilled tank.

so again. how is it better? safer? more successful?
 
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