Is Bruce starting to fade......

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Main reason I guess most sites point to 30c is cause of digestive related issues - which does make sense I feel... for now..

Not really, at low temperature metabolism is low so they need less food. At high temperatures metabolism is high and need more food. But in both cases they need easily digestible balanced food.

Fyi, hikari recommends bio gold plus over gold.

 
30c is far too high for the species that make up flowerhorn so why would it be healthy for flowerhorn. The sites that recommend 30c+ recommend that because as mentioned higher temp=faster metabolism so the fish grow as fast as possible because people want instant results. Instant results aren’t healthy and leads to premature death as if most flowerhorn nowadays aren’t already doomed to premature death. 90% or even higher of information on flowerhorn is BS. Besides some things, in general, take care of your flowerhorn like it is CA cichlid like it’s counterpart species, vieja and amphilphus. 78-82F is the perfect range of temp. As you go over 82F you just raise the risk of bacterial infection and the long term health of your fish lowers greatly. I would also Interchange hikari with NLS as hikari is a decent food but has lots of fillers and can be be like candy to your fish. +1 on the bio-gold plus but it should be interchanged NLS as the protein is a little high.
 
30c is far too high for the species that make up flowerhorn so why would it be healthy for flowerhorn. The sites that recommend 30c+ recommend that because as mentioned higher temp=faster metabolism so the fish grow as fast as possible because people want instant results. Instant results aren’t healthy and leads to premature death as if most flowerhorn nowadays aren’t already doomed to premature death. 90% or even higher of information on flowerhorn is BS. Besides some things, in general, take care of your flowerhorn like it is CA cichlid like it’s counterpart species, vieja and amphilphus. 78-82F is the perfect range of temp. As you go over 82F you just raise the risk of bacterial infection and the long term health of your fish lowers greatly. I would also Interchange hikari with NLS as hikari is a decent food but has lots of fillers and can be be like candy to your fish. +1 on the bio-gold plus but it should be interchanged NLS as the protein is a little high.

NLS and northfin availability in Europe and Asia is not so good. That's why I started saying get NLS or northfin if you can, otherwise get hikari bio gold plus. Hikari's availability is better and bio gold plus is much better than many other flowerhorn foods.
 
NLS and northfin availability in Europe and Asia is not so good. That's why I started saying get NLS or northfin if you can, otherwise get hikari bio gold plus. Hikari's availability is better and bio gold plus is much better than many other flowerhorn foods.
Ordered some NF cichlid as I cant get bio gold or NLS.

Will
NLS and northfin availability in Europe and Asia is not so good. That's why I started saying get NLS or northfin if you can, otherwise get hikari bio gold plus. Hikari's availability is better and bio gold plus is much better than many other flowerhorn foods.
Ok research on FH origin fish does not suggest 30c seems your right and that I should lower to 29c instead of 30c thank you for the heads up.

NF cichlid food ordered. Cant get bio gold or NLS unfortunately.

Thanks very much for all the feedback. I will post update pictures of Bruce in coming months - hopefully Bruce will develop into a stunning little KK.
 
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Ordered some NF cichlid as I cant get bio gold or NLS.

Will

Ok research on FH origin fish does not suggest 30c seems your right and that I should lower to 29c instead of 30c thank you for the heads up.

NF cichlid food ordered. Cant get bio gold or NLS unfortunately.

Thanks very much for all the feedback. I will post update pictures of Bruce in coming months - hopefully Bruce will develop into a stunning little KK.

Glad you were able to find northfin product, those are very good quality pellets, better than bio gold plus and gold. I do still think 29C is still high, you should drop to at least 28 (you can go down to as low as 26).

He is going to be stunner for sure. Excited to see updates on him.
 
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Wait Im confused, if flowerhorns are a man made hybrid how can they be F2? Sorry, flowerhorn noob here. Just curious
 
Wait Im confused, if flowerhorns are a man made hybrid how can they be F2? Sorry, flowerhorn noob here. Just curious
F1, F2, F3, ECT for hybrids is used to tell how far they are from their parents that were used to start the project. If you made a Kamfa by breeding a ZZ to a vieja then their offspring of would be F1, if you bred one of those offspring to another Kamfa their offspring would be F2, and so on and so forth. It's pretty impossible to tell what generation a flowerhorn or blood Parrot is when you get them so that's the way people do it.
 
Wait Im confused, if flowerhorns are a man made hybrid how can they be F2? Sorry, flowerhorn noob here. Just curious

F2 kamfa. Kamfa are made by crossing zz flowerhorn back with redhead cichlid or parrots to achieve certain traits that gives classic or f1, then offsprings is breed with zz flowerhorn to achieve certain traits that's f2 and so on. F1, f2 and f3 have different traits of kamfa.
 
Yeah I did....... I kinda want to make a list of myths about flowerhorns, seriously I don't know how people even come up with some of them.

Not all are myths, the hump is potentially linked to aggressiveness in fish and hump is definitely related to breeding conditions and seeing other males in midas. This does very little compared to having right gene. Basically people sacrifice health for looks.
 
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