Is it possible a tank can fail to cycle?
- Thread starter 4D3
- Start date
I have done that, one half is in the 2260, the other half in the tank in a bag
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I put a bunch of dirty filters from a tank that's been running for a while on my new tank to run. The tank was ready to go in a few days.
Thanks for posting the stocking levels and sizes plus the new pics.
Do you know what the pH, KH and GH levels are in the big tank? Also, what are those same readings in your raw rainwater and tap water? There is a definite relationship with seeing more toxic levels of ammonia when those 3 readings are lower than recommended.
You already know that the big tank is very heavily stocked with large fish and it takes a lot of proper filtration and frequent water changes to maintain good water parameters. It didn't help that your are having problems with the loss of the one Eheim filter.
Do you know what the pH, KH and GH levels are in the big tank? Also, what are those same readings in your raw rainwater and tap water? There is a definite relationship with seeing more toxic levels of ammonia when those 3 readings are lower than recommended.
You already know that the big tank is very heavily stocked with large fish and it takes a lot of proper filtration and frequent water changes to maintain good water parameters. It didn't help that your are having problems with the loss of the one Eheim filter.
ill get those readins tonight when i get home from work
should i add prime to the tap water to check for chloramines?
Tank:
Kh: 89.5ppm (5 drops of API)
Gh: 179ppm (10 drops of API)
Ph: 7
Tap:
Kh: 35.8ppm (2 drops of API)
Gh: 71.6ppm (4 drops of API)
Ph: 6.4
Sorry, I missed your post update.
Your pH level in the tap water is really low as is the KH level. It can be difficult to establish a good nitrifying bacteria level in the tank with these levels just doing a fishless cycle. I think it is further compounded by the fact that you are still heavily stocked with big fish.
Rather than buffering your tank water to elevate the pH and KH, can you possibly purchase a bottled bacteria product and use it according to the directions to help get your tank cycled?
You also mentioned that your house is on rainwater but you used town water when you did a water change and didn't add Prime.
What is the difference between your tap (rainwater) and your town water in regards to the pH, KH and GH? Can you take a sample of each source water and test it immediately AND then take a sample of each source water, let it sit in an open, clean container (preferably glass) for 24 hours and then test it.
Your pH level in the tap water is really low as is the KH level. It can be difficult to establish a good nitrifying bacteria level in the tank with these levels just doing a fishless cycle. I think it is further compounded by the fact that you are still heavily stocked with big fish.
Rather than buffering your tank water to elevate the pH and KH, can you possibly purchase a bottled bacteria product and use it according to the directions to help get your tank cycled?
You also mentioned that your house is on rainwater but you used town water when you did a water change and didn't add Prime.
What is the difference between your tap (rainwater) and your town water in regards to the pH, KH and GH? Can you take a sample of each source water and test it immediately AND then take a sample of each source water, let it sit in an open, clean container (preferably glass) for 24 hours and then test it.
I have to buffer the water that way because thats what the fish are used to, surely if i just waterchange with ph6 water into my tank it will not be good for the fish?
that is correct, but now the tank has been emptied and i am back on rain water, i think i may have been misleading with the values so i will clarify below:
Tank - Water in fish tank:
Kh: 89.5ppm (5 drops of API)
Gh: 179ppm (10 drops of API)
Ph: 7
Tap - rainwater from the tap:
Kh: 35.8ppm (2 drops of API)
Gh: 71.6ppm (4 drops of API)
Ph: 6.4
unfortunately i cannot get a sample of the town water as my tank is now filling with rainwater again.
What procedure are you using to buffer your water for the aquarium?
Are you using a homemade buffer or are you using a store bought product?
So you are saying that you have the option of using rainwater from the tap OR town water from the tap?
Nevermind, I went through some of your older posts and see that you obviously have a cistern that normally is filled with rainwater but when it ran out, you had town water delivered to fill the cistern.
Are you using a homemade buffer or are you using a store bought product?
So you are saying that you have the option of using rainwater from the tap OR town water from the tap?
Nevermind, I went through some of your older posts and see that you obviously have a cistern that normally is filled with rainwater but when it ran out, you had town water delivered to fill the cistern.
To buffer:
When I do a water change,I suck out the tank water, about 50%, then I add prime, then I add seachem neutral regulator to buffer the water.
I leave it to circulate for about 15 mins, then I turn the filters off and start adding the new water using a power head to mix the water in the tank.
Once it is full again,I turn the filters back on.
Regarding the water,I only have 1 water tank, originally it was full of rainwater, then my wife ran the tank dry, she had it filled with town water from a delivery tanker, then once the tank was sitting at about 1000l we have had some big rains and now the tank is 15000l full of rain water.
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