Is my water the cause for all my problems?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Thanks for the replies guys. I really appreciate it.

The 2 rowdier rays of the bunch were seperated last night with a divider.

The heavy breathing is moving on to other rays.

David can you tell my why and for how long the water should be aged? Maybe I can figure out a spot to do it. I imagine I want to run large amounts of aeration to the water during this aging process?

Yup ray school is definetly expensive. Unfortunately it is going to prove much too expensive for me. I lost my job Thursday. Now I'm losing my rays. Definetly enough emotionally and physically for me to seriously question why the hell I'm doing this. Especially after what I've just been through.
 
12-24 hours with an airstone and a heater and all the chlorine will have naturally gassed off and pressure /temp will have stabilized so that CO2 bounce is not an issue. You could also use a small filter just with carbon and this is a good time to soak peatmoss in your water. This is the place to mix your r/o with tap, not as it goes into the tank.
Rubbermaid plastic HD 55 gallon trash cans are useful for ageing water.
 
DB junkie;3495899; said:
Thanks for the replies guys. I really appreciate it.

The 2 rowdier rays of the bunch were seperated last night with a divider.

The heavy breathing is moving on to other rays.

David can you tell my why and for how long the water should be aged? Maybe I can figure out a spot to do it. I imagine I want to run large amounts of aeration to the water during this aging process?

Yup ray school is definetly expensive. Unfortunately it is going to prove much too expensive for me. I lost my job Thursday. Now I'm losing my rays. Definetly enough emotionally and physically for me to seriously question why the hell I'm doing this. Especially after what I've just been through.
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Sorry to hear man for real.

Bump for some more advice.
 
DavidW;3495939; said:
12-24 hours with an airstone and a heater and all the chlorine will have naturally gassed off and pressure /temp will have stabilized so that CO2 bounce is not an issue. You could also use a small filter just with carbon and this is a good time to soak peatmoss in your water. This is the place to mix your r/o with tap, not as it goes into the tank.
Rubbermaid plastic HD 55 gallon trash cans are useful for ageing water.
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Why would he not be able to drip his r/o in his tank in this situation? With a 50/50 drip split his tank would never see any of the effects that you would see with a 50% waterchange of r/o-tap, or am I missing something. I've seen my r/o that I've been aging have it's ph continue to rise over 3 days. For the amount of water he needs to change he would need a alot of space for aging water. Would a drip not provide a steady state over time? And would it not be a slow enough change for the rays to handle?
 
I'm running the water through carbon filters in the waterline for the drip to remove chlorine, and according to the tests it is working.

Am I thinking in the right direction that the PH is gonna drop over the 24 hrs if I was to age the water?

Any thoughts on possible parasite introduction via blackworms from when the pups were on the pond system?
 
any effing around with water parameters, like mixing r/o with tap, or using acid to lower pH or buffers etc, should imo all be done outside the tank, as a precaution.
If the new water is aged and temp matched then there is no shock and you could safely change 99% even several times a day. . Your pH may not change, it may even go up once any CO2( acid) is gone, or it may drop if they use a lot of chlorine ( an alkaline) , but it will at least be stable.


I seriously doubt blackworms as a source of your problems unless you fed rotten/dead worms.
I have in the past had CBW's from aquaticfoods.com analyzed several times ( by 2 univ. path labs) and no bad bacteria or parasites has ever been found. Leeches are not a problem.
 
DavidW;3496656; said:
any effing around with water parameters, like mixing r/o with tap, or using acid to lower pH or buffers etc, should imo all be done outside the tank, as a precaution.
If the new water is aged and temp matched then there is no shock and you could safely change 99% even several times a day. . Your pH may not change, it may even go up once any CO2( acid) is gone, or it may drop if they use a lot of chlorine ( an alkaline) , but it will at least be stable.


I seriously doubt blackworms as a source of your problems unless you fed rotten/dead worms.
I have in the past had CBW's from aquaticfoods.com analyzed several times ( by 2 univ. path labs) and no bad bacteria or parasites has ever been found. Leeches are not a problem.
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So cutting the drip and giving the rays a Prazi bath for 5 to 7 days isn't the proper course of action? I can't help but think there's something affecting them. I am at a loss in identifing it. Thought that Prazi is safe enough it isn't gonna hurt.

I'm open to thoughts here cause at this point I really don't know wtf to do. If I had the slightest I'd be reporting back results but I don't even know what to do anymore.
 
I wish I had anything else to suggest. Running a drip like you are should hopefully swing things your way? I would maybe run some activated carbon through yor filters for awhile. And like dw said you could use some aged water. Give it some time on the drip and see what happens, it might just take awhile for things to get better. How many gallons are you dripping a day?
 
skynoch;3498266; said:
How many gallons are you dripping a day?
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Started at like 200/day. Gradualy increased to like 1.1K/day. Ran that way for 3 days to flush the pond. Been slowly turning it down over a few days. I cut it now and threw some Prazi in. Forgot that the Dorado got live feeders there for a while when they were on the pond system.

Male has continued labored breathing and is on day 3 of refusing fòod. Not even crawlers.

Gonna try to figure out a way to add an aging vat into the drip. Gonna add another carbon filter as well.

It has to be cheaper to heat ponds using a warm water drip then heaters!!
 
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