Is Prime ray safe.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
no you shouldn't rinse the pads and sponges every water change, the longer you can leave a filter untouched the better. At least leave biomedia untouched and just change the polywool every couple of weeks. Every time you rinse biomedia, whether it's sintered glass or a sponge, you lose some bacteria.


Yeah, I don't do that. I have 3 filters and I just rinse the sponges of one filter each month with tank water.
 
I rinse mine every water change with tap water to each is own, my tanks are heavily stocked and my fish produce tons of waste so every water change sponges get cleaned also with tap water also forgot to mention I add bacteria every water change, Kent freshwater bacteria:thumbsup:
 
i wouldn't use ammquel or novaquel if you paid me! it'll mess up your readings unless you have a specific tester, which i can't remember the name now. just my .02
 
no you shouldn't rinse the pads and sponges every water change, the longer you can leave a filter untouched the better. At least leave biomedia untouched and just change the polywool every couple of weeks. Every time you rinse biomedia, whether it's sintered glass or a sponge, you lose some bacteria.


umm, i dont exactly disrupt my filter biomedia all that much by rinsing my mech.
lets see.. emporer, its on the biowheel, fluval, its on the right side. no need to touch your biomedia at all in the 5-10 minutes required weekly to permanently remove the trash trapped in the mech. even if i did happen to "unsettle" my biomedia, im sure its not nearly as bad as just letting the waste continue to rot away in your filters flow.

3 months between mech rinse/replacement (per filter) seems like quite a span.
 
Any product that removes ammonia, converts it to nitrates. The product my change it over for a day or so, that is one reason to convert your water and age it. In your case, I would clean one filter a week, that way you are on a three week cycle. If you buy a R.O. unit it would help out with the nitrates as well. Plus you could get a mangrove and grow it out of your tank, or make a sump and create a refugium like in salt water. What you have in Fluval 404's you could have made a large refugium, bought the lights, bought a pump, and have little to no nitrates. Yes it is a little louder, but you eventually can't hear it, because you are so accustomed to hearing it.
 
I have it all under control now.
 
i believe it is the test kit you are usually. if you go on Seachem site about Prime, it clearly states that some test kits will give you off readings.

edit..

bored at work so i found the link

http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Prime_faq.html

from the site
Q: I am using Prime™ to control ammonia but my test kit says it is not doing anything, in fact it looks like it added ammonia! What is going on?
A: A Nessler based kit will not read ammonia properly if you are using Prime™... it will look "off scale", sort of a muddy brown (incidentally a Nessler kit will not work with any other products similar to Prime™). A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime™), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away. However, the best solution ;-) is to use our MultiTest: Ammonia™ kit... it uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime™ or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from total ammonia (which is both the free and ionized forms of ammonia (the ionized form is not toxic)).

Q:I tested my tap water after using Prime and came up with an ammonia reading. Is this because of chloramine? Could you explain how this works in removing chloramine?
A: Prime works by removing chlorine from the water and then binds with ammonia until it can be consumed by your biological filtration (chloramine minus chlorine = ammonia). The bond is not reversible and ammonia is still available for your bacteria to consume. Prime will not halt your cycling process.
I am going to assume that you were using a liquid based reagent test kit (Nessler based, silica). Any type of reducing agent or ammonia binder (dechlorinators, etc) will give you a false positive. You can avoid this by using our Multitest Ammonia kit (not affected by reducing agents) or you can wait to test, Prime dissipates from your system within 24 hours.

Q: How does Prime make a difference in reducing Nitrates?
A: The detoxification of nitrite and nitrate by Prime (when used at elevated levels) is not well understood from a mechanistic standpoint. The most likely explanation is that the nitrite and nitrate is removed in a manner similar to the way ammonia is removed; i.e. it is bound and held in a inert state until such time that bacteria in the biological filter are able to take a hold of it, break it apart and use it. Two other possible scenarios are reduction to nitrogen (N2) gas or conversion into a benign organic nitrogen compound.
I wish we had some more "concrete" explanation, but the end result is the same, it does actually detoxify nitrite and nitrate. This was unexpected chemically and thus initially we were not even aware of this, however we received numerous reports from customers stating that when they overdosed with Prime they were able to reduce or eliminate the high death rates they experienced when their nitrite and nitrate levels were high. We have received enough reports to date to ensure that this is no fluke and is in fact a verifiable function of the product.

Hope this answer some of your questions.
 
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