jcardona1's Super-easy DIY 24/7 water changer!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Yup, they charge us for the water we use and assume we use the sewer for almost every drop used and charge us the asumption (you know Uncle Sam's all over this).

Just make sure the drain is in the grass :)
 
jcardona1;3835706; said:
im telling you man, low nitrates, no more water changes, it'll be the best $100 you spend! didnt know that about the sewage, ill have to look into that
Thats it im sold... Getting me an overflow (No sump :( ) And calling the filter guys tommorow. Thanks J!
 
I was just having this conversation with a colleague today. I may actually attempt this. Thanks for the clear and concise step by step bro!
 
tcarswell;3835782;3835782 said:
Thats it im sold... Getting me an overflow (No sump :( ) And calling the filter guys tommorow. Thanks J!
:headbang2 git 'ur dun!!!!!!!!!
 
jcardona1;3828500; said:
Now for the skeptics, here's some scientific proof :D I went ahead and purchased a chlorine/chloramine test kit from filterguys. The test kit doesn't separately test for chlorine and chloramine though. The instructions say that any pink color indicates a presence of chlorine and/or chloramine.

So with this being said, what happends next if you detect "Chlorine or Chloramine" in the tank??

Im asking Q's so when I set up, I know how to react (or for other interested in the "what if") :D
 
Would you recommend putting in a filter that would reduce chlorine/chloramine, metals, phosphate and VOCs or would that risk removing minerals that might be good for the fish? Or is that even a factor? I see this as a great way of making it so algae can't grow in the tank by not only limiting the amount of resources available but also keeping nitrates low so it can never really establish itself. Combine that with some low wattage lighting on for limited amounts of time and I think it might look like a nearly maintenance free tank.
 
West1;3836558; said:
So with this being said, what happends next if you detect "Chlorine or Chloramine" in the tank??

Im asking Q's so when I set up, I know how to react (or for other interested in the "what if") :D

if after a few months you detect a pink color, then its time to change out the carbon. they sell 5lb bags of this stuff for about $30. and im sure that 5lb should last a VERY long time :)

brianhellno;3836589; said:
Would you recommend putting in a filter that would reduce chlorine/chloramine, metals, phosphate and VOCs or would that risk removing minerals that might be good for the fish? Or is that even a factor? I see this as a great way of making it so algae can't grow in the tank by not only limiting the amount of resources available but also keeping nitrates low so it can never really establish itself. Combine that with some low wattage lighting on for limited amounts of time and I think it might look like a nearly maintenance free tank.

you mean like a reverse osmosis setup? i dont know much about these types of filters beyond the chloramine filters, but im pretty sure its not necessary on FW. they are used more for saltwater. RO water is so pure that would have to add some minerals back to the water as it will create too sterile of an environment for the fish
 
I see... thanks.
Ill look more into this stuff in the coming weeks as right now im busy busy

Thanks for sharing J... looks good and you made it look easy :)
 
jcardona1;3836741; said:
if after a few months you detect a pink color, then its time to change out the carbon. they sell 5lb bags of this stuff for about $30. and im sure that 5lb should last a VERY long time :)



you mean like a reverse osmosis setup? i dont know much about these types of filters beyond the chloramine filters, but im pretty sure its not necessary on FW. they are used more for saltwater. RO water is so pure that would have to add some minerals back to the water as it will create too sterile of an environment for the fish

Not reverse osmosis more like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100078735&langId=-1&catalogId=1&cm_sp=d26-_-plumbing-_-superfeature-_-make_healthier_home

It removes the following:

Filter - VOC/Lead/Cyst
Filter Cartridge - Carbon Block
Filter Change Indicator - LED
Filter Life - 6 Months
Particulate Reduction - Nominal 0.5 Micron
Asbestos Reduction (Percent) - 99%
Atrazine Reduction (percent/gals.) - 77%
Benzene Reduction (Percent) - 96%
Chlorine Taste and Odor Reduction (Percent) - 97%
Cysts Reduction (Percent) - 99.99%
Lead Reduction (Percent) - 98%
Lindane Reduction (Percent) (A Pesticide) - 99%
Mercury Reduction (Percent) - 90%
Turbidity Reduction (Percent) - 99%
VOC Reduction (Percent) - 99%
Feed Water Pressure (psi) - 35 Min. - 120 Max.
Feed Water Temperature - 40-100 F

It looks like it basically takes care of things in the water supply that could be considered harmful or unhealthy in general. I'm not sure if its overkill or not but it looks like its the cleanest you can possibly get without going to full blown reverse osmosis, which as you said isn't exactly a suitable environment for fish. To be honest I don't really know how much those metals affect fish but it would be nice to know that they aren't in the system along with pesticides and VOCs.
 
So the carbon you use, is it the same as the activated carbon thats used in fish tank filters? Just curious as I have a bunch that I bought back when I started the hobby and thought I needed in my filters.

I'd imagine its different though.
 
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