Looking to setup a 500+ gallon freshwater sump tank

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
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Here's my Glasscages stand.
Yes - that rough end peice of trim is just stapled/finish nailed on like the front peice of trim... the trim work is not flush and very basic/not furniture grade in general quality (glasscages will tell you that - at least they did me)...
Has their quality gone down? If you look at my stand, although it does not have the detail, etc of more costly stands out there, it is very well built and is not going to come apart like that. it appears they are building their stands completely different now. Did you intentionally take that piece off the stand?
 
Looks to be the same construction to me... Different doors however (pop out vs hinged). yes, the peice of trim was removed so the heavy tank could slide in/onto the stand easily. It can easily be slapped back on as its just sitting on top of the plywood stand.
 
Looks to be the same construction to me... Different doors however (pop out vs hinged). yes, the peice of trim was removed so the heavy tank could slide in/onto the stand easily. It can easily be slapped back on as its just sitting on top of the plywood stand.
I think its a similar design, but there are some differences. It's hard to tell in the pic. I may call and ask a few questions. For the money though, it is a good bang for the buck. I suppose you could always do some modifications on the trim work to make it look a little nicer.

I was going to ask about how you did your plumbing. That is an interesting choice on how you have it plumbed on the side wall. Does that going into another room? Where is that plumbing going to? In my case, I will have to plumb it so it goes into a sump below the tank.
 
I think its a similar design, but there are some differences. It's hard to tell in the pic. I may call and ask a few questions. For the money though, it is a good bang for the buck. I suppose you could always do some modifications on the trim work to make it look a little nicer.

Yup - my thoughts exactly... I would think of the stand mostly as an unfinished / roughed stand needing to be trimmed out and painted etc (I think they use 3/4” oak plywood primarily)... I’d see if they could make it with heavier bracing though with your size tank as they just used 2x4s to frame it... you could also maybe have them leave off the trim even and maybe save some $$ and have it done a lot nicer yourself too. I hate the peices of trim they use as they are too large and bulky, not flush and take up 2” of tank viewing.
And the canopy just looked terrible and old school so it’s was just thrown away lol
 
I was going to ask about how you did your plumbing. That is an interesting choice on how you have it plumbed on the side wall. Does that going into another room? Where is that plumbing going to? In my case, I will have to plumb it so it goes into a sump below the tank.

I wanted a sleek look where all hardware was external and hidden (yet super easy to access) - yes I have it drilled for a external overflow that sits completely out of sight and on other side of the wall with bean animal plumbing and down into a 90 gal sump customized with chambers for mechanical, biomedio/K2, a wet/dry trickle over with bio balls and then a submersed bio chamber with variety of media (seachem/ rings etc). Ive also design the sump where i can (and am currently) setting up a auto water changer that will change 2 gals every 90 mins for more efficient and impactful changes vs a drip system.

Then I have the two redundant returns with the Sicce syncra adv 7 pumps - one returns through a 55w UV sterilizer and then both returning to 1” Seaswirls multi (can push up to 3k flow each) for variable and randomized occilating flow in tank (but very sleek look)... I’m pushing around 3200 gph or so I’d assume (both returns total) after tuning return valves and overflow...

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If you decide to go with a third party external overflow (like reefsavy or modular marine) - buy the overflow and send it to glasscages while it’s being built - that way they will drill the holes exactly to fit the overflow and you can rest easy that the until is correctly drilled and no issue w/ install (that’s what I did and worked out well)...
 
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If you decide to go with a third party external overflow (like reefsavy or modular marine) - buy the overflow and send it to glasscages while it’s being built - that way they will drill the holes exactly to fit the overflow and you can rest easy that the until is correctly drilled and no issue w/ install (that’s what I did and worked out well)...
Great idea! I hadn’t thought of that.
 
I wanted a sleek look where all hardware was external and hidden (yet super easy to access) - yes I have it drilled for a external overflow that sits completely out of sight and on other side of the wall with bean animal plumbing and down into a 90 gal sump customized with chambers for mechanical, biomedio/K2, a wet/dry trickle over with bio balls and then a submersed bio chamber with variety of media (seachem/ rings etc). Ive also design the sump where i can (and am currently) setting up a auto water changer that will change 2 gals every 90 mins for more efficient and impactful changes vs a drip system.

Then I have the two redundant returns with the Sicce syncra adv 7 pumps - one returns through a 55w UV sterilizer and then both returning to 1” Seaswirls multi (can push up to 3k flow each) for variable and randomized occilating flow in tank (but very sleek look)... I’m pushing around 3200 gph or so I’d assume (both returns total) after tuning return valves and overflow...

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Your plumbing looks awesome! It sounds like you really thought this out. I wish I knew more about the plumbing side of things. I’ve done a little research but there are so many opinions on the best approach to doing this.
 
Thanks man - did you decide to pull the trigger on the glasscages tank? How much $$ was the AGE tank? What kind of sump/filter did you decide on?
 
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