lukester825;4270777; said:
Really "PH down" read the link , API products in my opinion are junk.
http://cms.marsfishcare.com/files/msds/ph_down_111909.pdf
Lowering Ph
- Thread starter lukester825
- Start date
Really "PH down" read the link , API products in my opinion are junk.
http://cms.marsfishcare.com/files/msds/ph_down_111909.pdf
thanks for the replies, i didn't think anyone was looking at this thread anymore.. but i went to a lfs and got some acid buffer and after some dosing it is now at 7.2 which is what my tap water is at. soo hopefully i won't have to dose every water change right? unless the ph is rising in between which i think it might be.
I'm not sure what causes the ph to raise anyway, i have a play sand substrate about 2in thick, moderately planted, one long piece of driftwood
stock list
20 guppies
1 large angel
1 peacock eel
1 rubber or chubby pleco, small
1 bristlenose
1 gibbiceps 4in
1 redtail shark 4in
1 yo yo loach 4in
2 keyhole cichlids
75 gallon tank, but with two sumps 90 gallons of water
I'm not sure what causes the ph to raise anyway, i have a play sand substrate about 2in thick, moderately planted, one long piece of driftwood
stock list
20 guppies
1 large angel
1 peacock eel
1 rubber or chubby pleco, small
1 bristlenose
1 gibbiceps 4in
1 redtail shark 4in
1 yo yo loach 4in
2 keyhole cichlids
75 gallon tank, but with two sumps 90 gallons of water
again, why are you even adding this stuff? just leave your ph alone!lukester825;4321647;4321647 said:
Its kind of embarrasing but i have some red crystal shrimp in a refugium connected to the sump, and every site i've been to says their ideal ph is 6.6 to 7.2, and mine was 7.8 so i wanted to try to lower it.
Buffers can be just as problematic if people dont understand the relationships completely. Stability via this route consists of buying both sides of the equation and being proactive in your testing & benchmark approach. Like anything, you need to know the varibles of your given system, in order to target a stable range based on the numbers. Seachem makes some decent products at any rate.
Although i agree with what others have mentioned, in your case stability is far more important than focusing the numbers per say. id advise looking into the soft approach, bringing it down slowly down via proactive natral means & monitoring it in relation to your water contribution.
Im going to assume your using tap water yeah?
You ozzie?
Although i agree with what others have mentioned, in your case stability is far more important than focusing the numbers per say. id advise looking into the soft approach, bringing it down slowly down via proactive natral means & monitoring it in relation to your water contribution.
Im going to assume your using tap water yeah?
You ozzie?
I don't understand the chemistry any farther than acids neutralize bases and lower ph and vice versa.
By both sides of the equation do you mean using both acid and basic buffers?
And by the soft approach do you mean water changes?
And yes i will be using tap water.
Does ph have anything to do with gh and kh? i had my water tested and gh and kh were in the "acceptable" levels
By both sides of the equation do you mean using both acid and basic buffers?
And by the soft approach do you mean water changes?
And yes i will be using tap water.
Does ph have anything to do with gh and kh? i had my water tested and gh and kh were in the "acceptable" levels
Just saw the last question haha, no I'm from the states, TN. That phrase is from a country song.
I would not mess with your ph, like everyone else said, stability is the key. The water heaters in my dorm broke, and for some reason I still can't figure out the ph went extremly low, like below a 5 low. None of my fish started dying until I added ph up to try and compensate for the low ph, which wiped out all but one of my fish. I now dont live in the dorms, but I still have crushed coral in my tank to stabalize the ph a bit. stick with the ph in your tap water and your shrimp will be golden
Yup basicly, & yes, they are in dirrect relationship with each other.
Your water changes using tap im assuming is the biggest (blind) source on alk buffering.
As an example - If your current water parameters is overshadowing your tannic acid release from your wood, then you'll experience a higher stable ph.
If you have no testing capibility of your own, then it makes incrimental shifts impossible without trips to where your getting it tested. "acceptable" from a testers point of veiw is like answering to your girlfriend that her @ss doesn't look big in those jeans. Your living in grey in that territory..lol
Soft, as in something simple like add another wood creation or almond leaves to tank/waterchange/top-up water. However as i said, you still need to monitor regardless of what you do.
Your water changes using tap im assuming is the biggest (blind) source on alk buffering.
As an example - If your current water parameters is overshadowing your tannic acid release from your wood, then you'll experience a higher stable ph.
If you have no testing capibility of your own, then it makes incrimental shifts impossible without trips to where your getting it tested. "acceptable" from a testers point of veiw is like answering to your girlfriend that her @ss doesn't look big in those jeans. Your living in grey in that territory..lol
Soft, as in something simple like add another wood creation or almond leaves to tank/waterchange/top-up water. However as i said, you still need to monitor regardless of what you do.
