What brand of polyurethane did you use? I am gonna use Drylock for the outside of mine, but will look into what you did. It may be better solution.
my plywood tank build
- Thread starter laura65536
- Start date
I think it is minwax, it's whatever the popular brand is at lowes and HD, but drylok is actually the same price, so it doesn't save you any money, but we had bought it for the stand anyway, cause I didn't want the wood to get moisture in it and warp later on.
Very smart thinking. Thanks for answering my question about the spray paint. I wonder if that would work over sanitred....
isn't that kinda like truck bedliner? I don't know for sure if it'd work, but I don't know why it wouldn't, says on the bottle it bonds to just about anything, glass, plastic, wood, wicker, ect...all the hard-to-bond-to surfaces...you can ask the people at sanitred or maybe the people at krylon could help you out, I'm not sure...
I might... But i suppose I should wait because i found out today that an investor from europe might be interested in buying all the house on our street...
new questions....what kind of foam do you guys use? I know you can get it a lowes or HD but I don't know much more than that, and I would feel better if this was sitting on some foam....
also, is there any benefit to putting the stand on a piece of ply? does that disburse the weight any better or is it pointless?
I am going to do my best to have the guys move it in here this weekend, it's never going to get done sitting in an unheated garage in december up here, and I"m too close to take a break until spring now, this baby is gonna get done....
Also, when I put the glass in, how exactly should I do it, is it okay to just set the tank on it's front and let gravity do the job, or should we try to find a way to hold the glass in while it's upright?
also, I'm going to have 2x6's running along the top inside of the tank for extra support, but I just can't figure out how to put the extra support in for the front, the little 4" strip of plywood that goes between our panes of glass, it's the perfect size for a 2x4, but I'm at a loss as how to get the 2x4 on after the glass, so my new idea is to maybe take another sheet of plywood coated in drylok and sandwich the glass between the plywood and hardi board, will that help support it or no?
and one last thing, I want to brace the back of the tank, I was thinking of just making x's out of 2x6's, but with everything just about done we can't really do that now, it's down to only using liquid nails for fear of messing up our layers of water-proof-ness we have going, so will it help to brace the back of the tank of we liquid nails a 2x6 (or 2 or 3) across the back length wise or is there a better way to do this?
also, is there any benefit to putting the stand on a piece of ply? does that disburse the weight any better or is it pointless?
I am going to do my best to have the guys move it in here this weekend, it's never going to get done sitting in an unheated garage in december up here, and I"m too close to take a break until spring now, this baby is gonna get done....
Also, when I put the glass in, how exactly should I do it, is it okay to just set the tank on it's front and let gravity do the job, or should we try to find a way to hold the glass in while it's upright?
also, I'm going to have 2x6's running along the top inside of the tank for extra support, but I just can't figure out how to put the extra support in for the front, the little 4" strip of plywood that goes between our panes of glass, it's the perfect size for a 2x4, but I'm at a loss as how to get the 2x4 on after the glass, so my new idea is to maybe take another sheet of plywood coated in drylok and sandwich the glass between the plywood and hardi board, will that help support it or no?
and one last thing, I want to brace the back of the tank, I was thinking of just making x's out of 2x6's, but with everything just about done we can't really do that now, it's down to only using liquid nails for fear of messing up our layers of water-proof-ness we have going, so will it help to brace the back of the tank of we liquid nails a 2x6 (or 2 or 3) across the back length wise or is there a better way to do this?
brent65536;1323491; said:
1) Use the pink, 1/2" thick styrofoam insulation. The cheaper white stuff would probably work too, but for an extra $5...
2) Might help, in that the legs of your stand will be less likely to leave marks on the floor... but other than that it is probably useless.
3) That seems to be the accepted method. That's what I did, and set a couple heavy buckets on the glass. The glass alone will be quite heavy though, so this probably isn't necessary. If you need to move the tank around before the silicone is 100%, you can put 2x4 braces from the back wall to the glass to temporarily hold it in place till you get water in it.
4) I think a picture would be a great help here, because I'm confused
5) Yeah I guess it'd be tough to run a screw through from the inside to hold something on the back... I'd recommend a 2 part epoxy or something over the liquid nails, but at the end of the day, generally a decent adhesive joint is stronger than the wood itself, so yes, it will help. You can also run screws in from the back, near the ends, where it will not punch through into the already sealed tank interior. Remember you're preventing the tank from bowing outward, so the most important attachments are at the ends. of your braces.
PICS!!
okay, maybe this will help with my confusion...orange is 2x6's green is 2x4's and yellow is the plywood sandwich thing......
the first pic is of the bracing I want to do around the top with 2x6's and that is all just going to be liquid nailed on and clamped down...the front is where I get lost, should I do it like in the first pic with the 2x4's and if so, how do I do that with the glass in there, or should I put the glass in and lay the piece of ply ton top of it like in the last pic (first and last pic, all of that would go INSIDE the tank) if I did it with the plywood over the glass, I would still have the 2x6's running along the top of the rest of the tank, and could still attach a 2x4 to the top of the plywood if necessary....
second pic is what I had been thinking about doing for bracing on the back of the tank, on the OUTSIDE of the back of the tank, will that help any, I can screw it in on the very end like you said, but the rest of it would just be liquid nails, or can someone come up with a better way of supporting the back of the tank?
the first pic is of the bracing I want to do around the top with 2x6's and that is all just going to be liquid nailed on and clamped down...the front is where I get lost, should I do it like in the first pic with the 2x4's and if so, how do I do that with the glass in there, or should I put the glass in and lay the piece of ply ton top of it like in the last pic (first and last pic, all of that would go INSIDE the tank) if I did it with the plywood over the glass, I would still have the 2x6's running along the top of the rest of the tank, and could still attach a 2x4 to the top of the plywood if necessary....
second pic is what I had been thinking about doing for bracing on the back of the tank, on the OUTSIDE of the back of the tank, will that help any, I can screw it in on the very end like you said, but the rest of it would just be liquid nails, or can someone come up with a better way of supporting the back of the tank?
OK, well I'm guessing you don't want to attach the front bracing to the outside of the tank then? That's what I figured you were doing. Also, is the glass one piece or two? If it's two, you could put the 2x4 bracing on the inside before the window goes in... just screw the short edge of the 2x4 to the pressboard front, and then when you put the glass in, it will go inside the "frame" created by the T-like 2x4 bracing, and the one side and the bottom.
Putting the glass in, then bracing on the inside of the glass will basically do nothing.
Putting the glass in, then bracing on the inside of the glass will basically do nothing.
okay, I was just worried cause there will be about a 2" gap between the pieces of glass, and it just seemed like a good place for it to split/crack/burst/explode/insert-other monsterous-disaster-words-here but the turning the 2x4 seems like a great idea, and I really like being able to tie it into the bracing up top...
