New Sunsun 304Bs

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
You're probably right. It may just be my bias towards Chinese made goods. Which is completely stupid, because Eheim makes their canister filters in China, and I am sure that Fluval and all the others do to.
From what I've heard, Eheim classics are made in China while the newer series are still made in Germany.
 
If you've been around all these forums long enough, you would come to know that this applies to ALL brands and models

I agree. I had 2 Eheim 2228 canister filters spring leaks within about 2 months of each other. I replaced both gaskets (and lube) on each one and could never get them to stop leaking again. Ended up throwing them in the dumpster along with the stand the filters ruined under our 110 gallon aquarium.
 
Eheims used to be the most expensive canister filters made. And people always said they were worth it, because they'll last forever. I remember always wishing I could afford one when I was a teenager back in the late 80s, and having to "settle" for a used Fluval someone gave me. I think older Eheims, back in the 80s and early 90s were probably over-engineered. At some point engineers were probably brought in the try and lower costs by trying to change the exact type of plastic used, change it's thickness, etc.

The 2217 on Amazon is a LOT cheaper than other canister filters at the same flow rate. You can't race to the bottom of the price chain without cutting corners somewhere.

There's a reason why Dynaflo 150 power filters still work like champs 35-40 years later, while other filters end up in the scrap pile.
 
I have 3 of these canisters, been running for 2.5yrs, and have no issues with any leakage.

I don't use the uv, and hate that it gets in the way during maintenance. Was it difficult to remove the uv assembly?

I pulled the quartz sleeve, unscrewed the socket base, clipped the wire and pulled them through the top side and filled all the holes with silicone. I also siliconed around the clear rod and trimmed off the 4 socket support rods.
 
I pulled the quartz sleeve, unscrewed the socket base, clipped the wire and pulled them through the top side and filled all the holes with silicone. I also siliconed around the clear rod and trimmed off the 4 socket support rods.
Thanks, Tim. I'm not quite following this, but does the glass "globe" cylinder, that houses the uv bulb, stays attached? Because this is what I really want to remove.
 
Thanks, Tim. I'm not quite following this, but does the glass "globe" cylinder, that houses the uv bulb, stays attached? Because this is what I really want to remove.

It comes out, you have to give it a half turn. Once that is off you can pull the bulb out. Under the bulb in the center of the socket is a screw. Take the screw out and pull off the socket. There will be 2 wires that attach to it. Pull those up from the top side ( you need to remove 6 screws to seperate the 2 halves of the lid first ). I just heat shrink wrapped the bare ends of the wires and removed the switch. Then pump some silicone into the 2 holes the wires left and around both ends of the clear rod. You can leave the quartz sleeve (glass globe) off. Now it will be water tight and minus the uv. Much easier to deal with cleaning now.
 
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