I haven't done a plywood tank but I use pond armor all the time for coating my 3D backgrounds that I make. Normally it'll start curing with in the hour and be pretty much cured in about 12hrs, definitely cured in 24hrs. Are you sure you mixed it in the proper 2:1 ratio? Hopefully it's just a thick coat and it ends up setting up for ya.
New Tank Build
- Thread starter Aquadog
- Start date
I certain the epoxy was measured correctIy. It should definately be harder than it seems now. I'm going to give it a good sand and put another thin coat or two on and see what happens.
As of now, I can gouge my fingernail in the cured epoxy and scratch it.
As of now, I can gouge my fingernail in the cured epoxy and scratch it.
What's the temp? If it' colder then 65 it'll take longer to cure. Like Steve c said I've never made a plywood tank bit I use it for backgrounds all the time. It does get hard but it is slightly pliable when cured. Also like said if it was a super thick coat it will take longer.
I would would not apply more until that layer is fully cured. Covering uncured epoxy is asking for issues later.
It hardened up a bit more so I sanded it with 60g to rough it up and level out any low/high spots. This time I used a small squeegee and what a difference in ease when applying it. So much better than a roller and more even coverage. The squeegee allowed me to channel a steady flow into the crack between the steel frame and wood. My hope is sometime this week after the Pond Armor cures I can start installing the glass panels.
Since I am no longer going to use the PVC base I was searching for a better silicone or adhesive that would work best.
I already have the box of DC 795, but heard RTV 103 might be better.
I pulled the spec sheets for both, since I was curious if DC 795 had the best adhesion qaulity.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the DC 795 looks to be much stronger, flexiable and better overall than the RTV.
The RTV Spec on top and DC 795 on the bottom.
I already have the box of DC 795, but heard RTV 103 might be better.
I pulled the spec sheets for both, since I was curious if DC 795 had the best adhesion qaulity.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the DC 795 looks to be much stronger, flexiable and better overall than the RTV.
The RTV Spec on top and DC 795 on the bottom.
Thanks for the suggestion. The SCS brand I found has the best overall results on their spec sheet.
While researching the SCS I found a company with great prices, customer service and fast shipping. For those looking for sealant/silicone/RTV, I reccomend contacting Glen at PK Supplies.
PK Supplies
P.O. Box 68652
Schaumburg
IL
60168
Phone: 224-653-8181
Email: sales@pksupplies.com
I might even reconsider using PVC as the base again with SCS.
I decided to go back to the PVC bottom again. Wish I would have decided this before I made the plywood Pond Shield base. Oh well, have to keep that for a garage tank build later.
I did come up with a solution for the silicone/pvc seal. In researching the Pond Shield, I found it sticks to PVC really well without primer and all that is needed is to just sand the PVC as you would the plywood. More on that later.
For the PVC I found a company called Industrial Plastic Supply loated at
2240 S Dupont Dr, Anaheim, CA 92806.
Prices are awesome and they have all kinds of plastic, acrylic, pvc ect for great prices. If looking to DIY check them out. Kevin was my contact there. Great customer service.
I picked up a 1" thick 8x4' sheet of PVC and with help was able to load it up. It weighs less than the same size 3/4" piece of glass, but it's still a heavy beast.
Next in the process was to router a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet edge to place the glass in. What a mess this made. I filled up a 30 gallon garbage bag with all the shavings. The edge came out perfect though.
After getting the edge done, I sanded 1" of of the top inside edge with 60 grit.
After all the mess was picked up, I moved the PVC onto the stand. With the last bit of Pond Shield I had, I applied it to the edges where the glass will sit and on the sanded 1" inside edge. I'm hoping the SC1200 silicone will really stick now to the Pond Shield.
Time to let it cure and maybe install the glass later this week.
I did come up with a solution for the silicone/pvc seal. In researching the Pond Shield, I found it sticks to PVC really well without primer and all that is needed is to just sand the PVC as you would the plywood. More on that later.
For the PVC I found a company called Industrial Plastic Supply loated at
2240 S Dupont Dr, Anaheim, CA 92806.
Prices are awesome and they have all kinds of plastic, acrylic, pvc ect for great prices. If looking to DIY check them out. Kevin was my contact there. Great customer service.
I picked up a 1" thick 8x4' sheet of PVC and with help was able to load it up. It weighs less than the same size 3/4" piece of glass, but it's still a heavy beast.
Next in the process was to router a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet edge to place the glass in. What a mess this made. I filled up a 30 gallon garbage bag with all the shavings. The edge came out perfect though.
After getting the edge done, I sanded 1" of of the top inside edge with 60 grit.
After all the mess was picked up, I moved the PVC onto the stand. With the last bit of Pond Shield I had, I applied it to the edges where the glass will sit and on the sanded 1" inside edge. I'm hoping the SC1200 silicone will really stick now to the Pond Shield.
Time to let it cure and maybe install the glass later this week.
I am super interested in this project, I have built a number of snake and gecko racks out of PVC sheeting and have a bit of it used in my current build but would love to do a 560g
other then the rabbit, will you be having anything else to ensure it doesn't separate from the glass?
other then the rabbit, will you be having anything else to ensure it doesn't separate from the glass?
