Yes, I agree. Only talking from painful memories. My latest tank that failed just opened up on one of the seals gushing water out. I admit the tank was about 13 years old when it happened. My other half had to push the glass back to hold the water until I scoop the fish out....So I am sort of more cautious these days...I'd get it as level as possible and no possibility of a twist of any kind for peaceful mind.
New tank catastrophe :(
- Thread starter islandguy11
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Appreciate both your input. For sure geometry & physics weren't one of my best subjects but something I don't understand is: if a tank is sloped just from front to back or side to side as you say, how can it be possible to avoid some difference in height between opposite X corners -- or do you mean that any difference must be the same on both parts of the X? (e.g. one of my diagonals is 2 mm difference and the other is 5mm -- for there to be no torsional twist both diagonals should be the same measurement, in my case both 2mm or both 5mm, (or whatever, ideally 0), correct or am I missing something?
So I guess the question is whether the 3mm difference between my diagonals is significant enough to cause worry insofar as torsional twist and 12mm bottom glass cracking...I think I might postpone transfer of Blue Base another day and give it one more shot (though I don't like wasting all this water, esp. during our dry season).
Yes, correct.
I have a 90 gallon that has been slanted slightly downwards from the left side to right for approx 10 yrs now, that was used (and resealed by former owner) at least 10+ yrs ago. I can see one of the back seems starting to lift on the overlap portion, so while still holding tight at the point where the two panes of glass meet, it's probably a ticking time bomb at this point. I plan on taking it down and giving it away (for reptiles or?) to someone that can use it in the next couple of weeks. Just thinking about 90 gallons of water on my basement finished floor causes me anxiety, so I know where you are coming from Barrett. The only time I want to see water on the floor is after I have a shower. lol
I would test it out as well, and move the BB after giving it a bit.
If you want it perfect.. would it not be easier if you place a thick flat wooden board below the tank but with slightly difference in thickness on the sides according to the difference of your tank?
I had thought about this approach but LFS guy warned against it. Also to get the wooden board angled just right at each corner would be pretty hard i think. I've postponed transfer of Aro until tomorrow, I'm going to drain it now and try one last time with shims under the stand (problem is there are 6 legs, which complicates things).
That tank probably flexes two millimeters when you pick it up.
Everything you see now may change some more when you fill it completely up so you need to check it then as well.
Everything you see now may change some more when you fill it completely up so you need to check it then as well.
You simply cannot. Not without extreme measures. I have done them for the sake of beauty: otherwise forget it and use a setting bed.
I cut & routed this top from 2" birch: factory drum-sanded, but never 100% flat. I sealed it & flat-sanded by hand with a big board 2"x12"x24" with three 8.5x11 sheets of sandpaper glued to it. It's a workout!
This one was over twice as large.
It was even more of a workout.
I got the 64" top very flat overall after about 4 hrs and 50 sheets of paper.
The stand was temporarily shim-leveled in 10 spots. Then I shot a setting bed of grey sealant. After half drying, I removed the shims and filled in the sealant. DAP 30 min. will work and is cheap.
Anyhow I could not flat-sand the tile floor, and did not want leveling feet in my foyer, so a setting bed of sealant solved everything.
If you want 100% even full contact between two surfaces, you must have a setting bed or work like the devil himself. Every column of every modern building is on a setting bed. This is the only easy way.
