Oscar with HITH...Help...

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
jlennon;4307688; said:
7/20 before w.c.
Ammonia 0
Nitrite O
Nitrate 20 - 40
pH 7.2 - 7.6

Did a 25% w.c. (est 13gallons). Instaled a new bio wheel 350. Now opperating with Cascade 600, and two bio wheel 350.

est one hour after w.c.

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20
pH 7.2 - 7.6

For the w.c. I set up 3 five gallon buckets with (buckets sat for a little over 20 minutes with chemicals in them):
1.5 TBS salt
7.5 ml AmQuel+ --2.5 ml per five gallon bucket. (rec. 5ml per 10 gallons).
7.5 ml Melafix --2.5 ml per five gallon bucket. (rec. 5ml per 10 gallons).
7.5 ml Pimafix --2.5 ml per five gallon bucket. (rec. 5ml per 10 gallons).
15 drops of Quick Cure (five drops per bucket).

How often should I do this? Is this a good method? I also found a food with thiamine in it. He seems to like the food so all the better. I had him eat a couple pellets today. Has anyone used the API test strips? Are they good? which is more accurate? chemicals r strips? Would like to know because the kits are half the price. Thanx in advance.

The chemicals are more accurate than the strips. Strips are usually more expensive per use because they are less of a hassle. The chemical tests will last a lot longer as well.

It can't hurt to dose the water with malafix to reduce the bacterial population some. It's helped my fish with fin and skin problems. None of them have ever caught HITH, so I can't speak to how well it works for that. I know it's highly touted around here as a good water treatment to use for any fish injury or surface-visible malady.

Good luck
 
knifegill;4309794; said:
Oh, man. Have you tried adding plants? I have water lettuce and elodea with my Oscar and it's working out just fine. Keeping the nitrates low, too.

I had bambo in one tank at one time and that is about all I could keep with my O. I just added some moss to the 55 that has my sick O. He is not moving around to much so I have a chance.

Or you could try an algae scrubber.

I am open to ideas on the scrubber but do I need a sump? Are there other ways?

Other HITH Q's:

Have you checked for stray electric current?

I have not checked for stray electric current. How would I do that? and how does that effect the water?

What is your normal feeding routine and does he get some decent live food now and then?

My normal feeding has been a little off with my sick O. I usually soak some omaga pellets in vitamin c. I have recently switched to spectrum which has vitamin b and thiamine in it. I now soak those pellets in some vitamin c. I only feed them every other day to every three days. No feeders in their diet. I do not trust the LFS concidering that is part of the reason my other O got HITH. May be some shimp here and there but that is it.

EDIT: My O started showing a small pit and I treated with a metronidazole product and then added one of those funky vitamin pyramids to the filter. Pow. HITH gone in two days.

What is this metronidazole product you speak of? Last time I was in the LFS I did not ask but I read every container on the shelf. I have never heard of the pyramids being used. Good looking out. Thank you very much.
 
you can find metronidazole as an ingredient in Jungle Parasite Clear (fizzy tabs) or API General Cure . . . any decent LFS will stock at least one of these, as will Petsmart, Petco or even Wal-mart

10ppm nitrates in your tap is not super-high, but you will have to factor that in when doing your water changes, makes it harder to bring the total nitrates down
 
Oh, good. Java moss is better than nothing and the bamboo is a powerful nitrate consumer. Maybe increase the amount or add some to your filter box? Some people set up an empty HOB with nothing in it but plants.

I don't know for sure, but I keep strong lights on my Aquaclear filter ledges and they grow considerable algae each week.

Use a circuit tester for the current. Stray current has been associated most easily with general stress, and that's also a suspected factor for HITH.

For live food, I'm talking crickets and earthworms.
 
Sab_Fan;4310802; said:
you can find metronidazole as an ingredient in Jungle Parasite Clear (fizzy tabs) or API General Cure . . . any decent LFS will stock at least one of these, as will Petsmart, Petco or even Wal-mart

10ppm nitrates in your tap is not super-high, but you will have to factor that in when doing your water changes, makes it harder to bring the total nitrates down

So last night I was curious. I set up a five gallon bucket did a test on the water with nitrates @10ppm. I then added 5ml Easy Balance which is recommended. let the bucket sit for an hour and then re-tested the water. 20ppm if not higher. Hour two still 20ppm.
So conclusion is that Easy Balance sucks and I have been wasting my time and money on it.
Is there a nitrate reducer out there that actually work?

I also did Nitrate test on my 75 and it is about 20 ppm. My other O does not seem to be effected by the high nitrate. That I can tell. I do a 50% w.c. every week on her tank if I am not doing a 25% every three days.
 
Is there a nitrate reducer out there that actually works?
Normally, the response would be 'more water changes', but you're already maxing that out thanks to your tap water.

If it was me, I'd make a ghetto refugium with a very strong light bulb and the biggest HOB you have. That might be the easiest thing, anyway. But are you able to set up anything like a sump or perhaps a filter on top of your tank? If you can, in any way, isolate a small pocket of water in your system and load it with plants and algae and pump tank water through it, you'll have a much better time with your nitrates.

For the record, the nitrates might not be the only thing contributing to HITH at this time. Definitely worth knocking down, but look at all the variables at once.

Vitamin C did not work for my first O. I also didn't buffer my water and he was getting a pH swing every other day as I frantically changed his water to control nitrates. Obviously your pH is far more stable, so the vitamin C might act differently in your tank.

Even if you don't feel like finding a circuit tester for your tank's potential electric issue, the easiest thing to do is take an old appliance, cut off the cord, peel it in half so you only have one wire, bare both ends. Now, find an old stainless steel item like a fork (easiest), clean it with vinegar and perhaps a boiling, and wrap/clamp the fork head to one end of the wire. Now for the part to pay very close attention to. Your electrical outlet has three holes. Two for current, one as a neutral ground. If your outlets are like mine, the ground is the small hole that is unlike the other two, the one that heavy-duty extension cords always require. That hole has no electricity and it is into that hole you can secure the other end of your wire once you've twisted it into a non-frayed knob that has no chance of reaching out into the other holes. Don't let anything get near the other two holes. Move slowly and, if possible, put an outlet blocker over the two holes before you try this. They can knock you off your feet or kill your fish if you mess this up Just take a piece of tape and, after pushing the wire approximately 1/2" into the hole (further and you've passed the contact), secure the wire to the outlet. This outlet can still be used for normal indoor plugs that don't require a ground. Now insert the handle of the fork (all stainless only, no plastic handles, etc.) into one of your filter boxes.

If you've done this correctly, you're still alive, and your tank is now grounded. Worth doing anyway. Please, if you have any doubts about the safety of this or are not informed about the dangers electricity, don't try this alone. Ask a knowledgeable person you can trust to help you physically do this.
 
knifegill;4311430; said:
Oh, good. Java moss is better than nothing and the bamboo is a powerful nitrate consumer. Maybe increase the amount or add some to your filter box? Some people set up an empty HOB with nothing in it but plants.

Love the plant in the HOB idea. I can manage that. Would it be in my best interest to remove the carbon in the filter and let the roots do the work? That would save on carbon cost.

I don't know for sure, but I keep strong lights on my Aquaclear filter ledges and they grow considerable algae each week.

When you say strong lights, do you mean like a 75 watt hitting the flow back into the take? I have bio wheels so would I be better off putting the light on the wheels? And would a UV bulb be a better way to go? Would I want the lights to be on a cycle? or on 24/7?

Use a circuit tester for the current. Stray current has been associated most easily with general stress, and that's also a suspected factor for HITH.

For live food, I'm talking crickets and earthworms.

while I am in the garden I try to catch the crickets and grasshoppers I can.
 
knifegill;4311588; said:
Even if you don't feel like finding a circuit tester for your tank's potential electric issue, the easiest thing to do is take an old appliance, cut off the cord, peel it in half so you only have one wire, bare both ends. Now, find an old stainless steel item like a fork (easiest), clean it with vinegar and perhaps a boiling, and wrap/clamp the fork head to one end of the wire. Now for the part to pay very close attention to. Your electrical outlet has three holes. Two for current, one as a neutral ground. If your outlets are like mine, the ground is the small hole that is unlike the other two, the one that heavy-duty extension cords always require. That hole has no electricity and it is into that hole you can secure the other end of your wire once you've twisted it into a non-frayed knob that has no chance of reaching out into the other holes. Don't let anything get near the other two holes. Move slowly and, if possible, put an outlet blocker over the two holes before you try this. They can knock you off your feet or kill your fish if you mess this up Just take a piece of tape and, after pushing the wire approximately 1/2" into the hole (further and you've passed the contact), secure the wire to the outlet. This outlet can still be used for normal indoor plugs that don't require a ground. Now insert the handle of the fork (all stainless only, no plastic handles, etc.) into one of your filter boxes.

I like this DIY. But I have a safer suggestion. The center screw in any electrical outlet is grounded. If you replace the center screw with a longer screw (most of the time they are a small 1/4") with a 3/4"inch will do and wrap a piece on 12 AWG around the screw or there are small connectors you can crimp on and screw down then run the wire up and place it in the back of your filter this should complete a circuit and ground the tank. A tester on the electrical outlet to show that your outlets are properly ground is also advised. I also ward caution whenever anybody attempts to do anything with electric.

If you've done this correctly, you're still alive, and your tank is now grounded. Worth doing anyway. Please, if you have any doubts about the safety of this or are not informed about the dangers electricity, don't try this alone. Ask a knowledgeable person you can trust to help you physically do this.


That is something I never tought of but that is a really good suggestion thank you.
 
Here's what I am tryin.
jlennonw
jlennonw
jlennonw

jlennonw
 
Ok last post did not work. Here is what I am tryin plus a moth that rode on my work vand all day. Its huge.

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