Something I’ve noticed.

Lilyann

Dovii
MFK Member
Feb 20, 2017
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These conversations have made me more aware of the fluctuations in tap of chlorine/chloramine residuals.
Interesting duanes duanes mentions "the nose test."
Yesterday I did a 75% water change on my 180 gallon. When I went to add water back, was letting the tap get to proper temp I noticed a very strong chlorine smell and almost frothy nature to the tap water as it was warming.
I had already dosed Prime into the tank for total volume and then worried, is this enough Prime? The smell appears to be very strong of chlorine. And why is it so bubbly- "froth-like?
I waited until tank was half-way refilled and added some more for "good-measure" and observed the fish as the water continued to fill. I also gave the geophagus and other bottom--feeders some pellets to test their comfort level. All quickly went about eating. So, it was fine.
The frothiness was water in the line? Micro-bubbles, I am assuming- but interesting that it coincided with the powerful chlorine smell.
I packed the python end with lots of sponge-foam material to ensure the bubbles came out larger and dispersed at top of water column.
 

Artt

Exodon
MFK Member
Dec 26, 2018
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Australia
How is your tap water treated at the source? Do you live close to the source (high chlorine) or far from the source ( low chlorine)
Does the provider use straight Chlorine, or Choramine (Total chlorine) and what is the average residual.
You can usually find this info out on your water bill, or on the water providers web site.
Some water providers need to use a high dose to protect human health, in this case you may need a larger amount of dechlorinator. Sometimes a high does only certain times of year.
Some water providers need to only use very little, in this case you may need to use less declorinator.
If your water provider uses simple chorine, the aeration will help.
If chloramine aeration does very little, because the dose is so stable.
If you live in a cold climate, your water may be super saturated with gases under pressure in the pipes, this can cause stress to fish. If you draw a glass of water, and it appears cloudy but clears from the bottom up, dissolved gases are present.
If you live in a cold climate you may need to use some hot water mixed with cold to match temps. I always had to do this in Wisconsin, water came out of the tap in the high 30sF, and super saturated with gas.
If you need to mix hot with cold, a few times per years you need to drain some of the water out the low tap of your water heater (all water heaters need this at least once per year).
Viscous minerals can build up (precipitate due to drastic temp fluctuations) and be stressful to fish. I would drain a few gallons on my water heater 2 to 3 times per year, until the water didn't feel viscous.
I tried looking up these things for my water provider and can't find them. However I did find a fact sheet aimed at fish keepers provided by the water supplier.

The water heater draining, I have never heard of this. Is there any articles on here that someone can throw up a link to? I'm interested in learning more about this and if it is something that I need to do.
 

Mitchell The Monster

Piranha
MFK Member
Nov 5, 2016
448
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Georgia
Just discovered this thread and haven't read past the first page but my silver dollars would act like that in my old 60 gallon during water changes and I just kept all my air stones going while the water change was going to keep a little more water airation for them.
My current group of redhooks never have that issue during water changes or anything now, idk if it is becuase they are in a 125 now+ bigger school and better oxygen levels or what.
 
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