Stabilizing pH with crushed coral

[RD.]

Bingo

 

[magpie]

Thanks!

First I'll test the KH and GH. (pretty sure we're on the extreme of the soft side)

Then I'll try a cup in mesh bag in the canister. I might separate it out into smaller bags in case I need to remove some.

I'm not saying you do something wrong there but PH dropping that fast in less than 2 days in your tank then something wrong in the tank. I used to have 150G extreme heavy planted tank with driftwoods high tech and my water PH not even go down below 7 after 6 months or a year without water change, you should seek out what cause the PH drop that fast and correct it for safe long run, using buffer to keep PH stable is cost a lot of money in long run, it's just my opinion.

I think that our water is different in soft/hardness. From what I've read, very soft water (low KH) is allowing the pH to drop. If you have harder water than I do, your pH won't drop like mine. I think our city's water hardness is pretty much zip.

 

[Doc-Fish]

Crushed oyster shell, more effective than crushed coral. Sold dirt cheap at farm feed stores as chicken grit. Just make sure to rinse it well first, then simply add to media bag.

edit to add - I would start with 1 cup, and then simply replenish as needed.

+1
Coral belongs on a reef, oyster shell is cheap/free depending on where you live. Be careful with chicken grit, i have seen Oyster shell chicken grit that was actually cockle shell.

Would still work but Oyster shell is 98.9% Calcium Carbonate, while most other shells are harder and generally 70% calcium carbonate.

 

[BIG-G]

Oyster shell also tends to have traped phosphates that can be released as it deteriorates. I know this from reef keeping and oystershell being used in a lot of DIY live rock recipies.

I vote for crushed coral. It does cost a little more but at the amounts we are talking about a pound of crushed coral would literally last years in a fresh water setup.

 

[BIG-G]

But I guess in a planted tank this wouldnt be a big deal so either would work fine.

 

[Doc-Fish]

Oyster shell also tends to have traped phosphates that can be released as it deteriorates. I know this from reef keeping and oystershell being used in a lot of DIY live rock recipies.

I vote for crushed coral. It does cost a little more but at the amounts we are talking about a pound of crushed coral would literally last years in a fresh water setup.

The phosphate comes from the organics attached to it, ball mill it and calcine to get rid. Its one of the purest shells and contains more Calcium Carbonate than Coral (just). I prefer my Coral on a Reef in a Ocean, not crushed in a bag or sitting there remind me of dead bleached reefs.

 

[Doc-Fish]

But I guess in a planted tank this wouldnt be a big deal so either would work fine.

With CO2 it might help, Get a CO2 tank right and you have add EVERYTHING, in some ammount!

But yes with Reef tanks, people dont bother to prepare Oyster shell.

 

[BIG-G]

The coral I speak of is what any reefer or Afican cichlid keeper would buy as a substrate. Not advocating killing corals.

 

[Doc-Fish]

The coral I speak of is what any reefer or Afican cichlid keeper would buy as a substrate. Not advocating killing corals.

The shame is, it was Coral once. It should have been left on the reef.

Ultimately the active chemical people are getting from Coral is Calcium Carbonate, i dont get why people dont use marble chips or just buy Calcium Carbonate off ebay...........

But then again I am one of those that dispair of Lion Fish now being found in the Seychelles . Only one way they got there, driving native fish to extinction and no predators except man.

I really have a thing about keepers not being responsiable, dont get me wrong way back as a kid i was as bad as anyone.

 

[duanes]

I agree with RD, it seems you have soft water with very low buffering capacity, and in that kind of low alkalinity water, a drop in pH (and/or alkalinity is normal) especially if you use leaves and wood. Beyond just in filters, you may want to work some into the substrate, or add a fluidized bed reactor using aragonite or finely crushed oyster shell as media to stabilize alkalinity.
You may also want to do more frequent, yet smaller water changes, that take less time.
Instead of buying pH up or some other product, a gallon of water waiting around every day with a few tablespoons of baking soda can quickly be addedadded. Or when sitting and watching the tank, take a gallon off old water out, and add the baking soda infused water.
The dead new butterfly is a symptom the the fish you have are accustomed to fish urine filled water, but a new fish is not capable of living in that shock, or environment. Because freshwater fish are constantly urinating thru gills, either buffering capacity (calcium neutralizing the acid) or water changes to dilute the urine are needed.
I know everyone tends to get excited about some fish feces saying in plain view, but its the invisible stuff like urine that's the killer.