Starting the bio-farm for 6 summer tanks

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Just having a little fun with you. It’s been interesting reading to see you encounter most of the same pitfalls that the ofhers, who didn’t write the articles, encounter. It more or less highlights the shortcomings of the method when the SME struggles his way through it. A month later, I’m saying you indicated that you could cycle faster than you have demonstrated. It’s been educational
 
First, what is "SME"?

Second, no, most folks do not run into the issues I did because most people do not try to cycle 6 (+ 2 x 10 gal) aquariums worth of filters to handle full stocking and do so in one 40 gal tank. And I did admit I made the mistake of being too smug at the outset and not doing some of the testing I should have. This project was more also filters cycled in less space than I had done in the past. I am still beating the normal fishless cycling time of 5 -6 weeks. I cannot take responsibility for having a bad batch of bacteria from Amazon. it happens but there is no way to know this is the case in advance. That added over a week to the process.

I have learned as well. I underestimated how fast the acidification caused by the cycle would halt the process in this case. This is pretty rare in the average fishless cycle. And then I tried to cut the work needed by not doing what I said I would. What I do know is if I had to do this same thing again project again, it would go as expected and be completed in 15 days give or take a couple.

As for "the others" I have yet to meet anybody who was running or had run a small scale bio-farm for cycling filters and/or parking cycled filters for extended periods to be used on demand. However, if anybody reading this thread has done so, please chime in. I do know Angels Plus sells cycled sponges, but I do not think they are cycled in a bio-farrm.
 
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SME = Subject Matter Expert. Which I would say this thread demonstrates.
 
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I cannot pay enough attention to the farm to manage to maximize the dosing which means minimizing the time between when the tank is reeady for more ammonia and how long after that I add more ammonia.

Last night at about 1:30 a.m. I got an email saying my new Altum angels would arrive by 10 a.m. The problem was I had put off working on the tank into which they would go pending being notified when the fish would be shipped. I was up at about 9:30 on under 4 hours of sleep. I have to batch specially prepared water for the tank and that alone takes about 30 minutes. To make things more fun, the continuous digital monitor on the tank was flashing that the pH probe needed to be recalibrated.

All went fine and I finally got onto the terrace around 2:30. Of course trhe ammonia read 0, the pH was about 7.4 and the TDS 156 ppm. I did a 50% wc and restested and the ph was 6.6 and TDS was 135. I added 2.1 gm of ammonium chloride and just under a teaspoon of baking soda. The filters in the farm are doing fine and are ready to be used. I would have preferred to be dong ammonia twice a day but there do not seem to be enough hours for that.

I doubt I will test again until tomorrow morning. I need to clean tanks in the fish space shortly. Tomorrow I hope to set up two of the summer tanks and move filters into them from the bio-farm. Before that I need to get the H tank with the clown cleared of the medication and well cleaned.

I need to clone myself..........
 
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I haven't read through each post in detail but happy to share what I do to kick start bio media.

If I have planned multiple large fish (5+ kilograms) arriving or need to set up a new rack of tanks I will try to boost new filter capabilities.

Since there are no fish, I don't worry about the upper limit. I add cloudy ammonia from the supermarket at approx 100ppm into 2 or 3 200L plastic barrels with one or two powerhead/internal power filters and several air lines for redundancy.

Toss in the sponge portion of sponge filters as will loosely fit (30 ~ 35) or sometimes seed K1 kaldnes and leave to sit for a week ort three In slow circulating water. There is no point trying to constantly measure with aquarium grade test kits until the levels become low. My aim is to cater for very high bio loads as brand new filters would quickly culture under light loads effectively anyway.

If I am deliberately not inoculating from old media to avoid bad bacterial or parasitic problems I will load 300ppm ammonia which will sterilise initially.
 
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Ammonia from the supermarket can be between 5 and 10% ammonia. Using 9.5% to produce 100 ppm of ammonia in 200 l of water requires adding 210.53 ml. For 300l ppm that would be 315.79 l. When I cycled with store ammonia I was adding about 5 drops/10 gals of tank water. Today with the benefit of online ammonia calculators I would be adding. If I were cycling 200l to 3 ppm today I would be adding 6.32 ml of ammonia. Or are you saying you would be using 2 or 3 barrles for that volume of ammonia? I am confused by how you stated things. if i cycled two 50 gal tanks each to 3 ppm I am adding 6 ppm but not into one tank.

One of the few things science knows for sure about the ammonia oxidizing bacteria is that there are a number of different strains and that the particular strains that end up colonizing any given location (be it a tank, a pond a waste treatment plant etc.) depends upon the concentration of ammonia.

This is the reason why science tells us in the hobby that, when doing a fishless cycle, do not to let the ammonia or nitrite levels exceed 5 ppm as nitrogen. That translates to about 6.4 ppm for ammonia on the total ion kits common in the hobby. For nitrite this number is about 16.4 ppm on the total ion scale. If we exceed that linit we inhibit the stains we want and instead cuclture those that will not survive over the longer term. This is similar to saying that nitrification stops in acid pH. It does not. It becomes less efficient and may encourage some different strains, but it does happen. Similarly, salinity limits the diversity of the nitrifying bacteria in the water.

Next, the bacteria form colonies and it is the colony which handles the load. The size of the colony will increase or decrease with the availability of what they need. The situation we create in a tank in terms of cycling is not the same as what will be in the tank once it has become cycled. In the begining it doesn't matter whether it is done with or without fish. Three is no ammonia present and then there is. With fish the ammonia takes a bit of time to build up but it builds up due to the lack of bacteria. With a fishless cycle we add enough ammonia to result in about 3 ppm all at once. In either case, there is a point where there is and ammonia concntration present in the several ppm range. Once the bacteria have colonized and multipllied, that level of ammonia etc. should never again be detected unless something goes wrong.

So, let's assume a tank has been cycled and fully stocked. it doesn't matter how it was done. This tank is now creating ammonia 24/7, but at a fairly low level. In the absence of the bacteria that ammonia would accumulate. It might even add up to 3 ppm a day or more, but it will do so slowly and continuously. What this means is the bacteria we want in our tanks are not the ones able to handle and which require higher levels of ammonia and nitrite to thrive, they are the ones which can thrive in the lower levels created in tanks.

Think of it this way. We mostly eat three meals and maybe some snacks in a day. But we could not eat all that food tf we had to do so all in one sitting. The bacteria are not versatile in terms of being able to handle or thrive at any level of ammonia or nitrite, different strains are adapted to thrive at different levels. And then there is good old mother nature. She designed things to work the way they do. That is why different bacteria function in different environments. This is why when Dr. Hovsnec et. al. did the research into the nitrifying bacteria in aquariums, they found even when other strains were put into a tank being cycled, in the end specific strains always dominated and the other strains put in were often completely undetectable.

So, if one over doses ammonia in a fishless cycle the result will be the wrong strains will colonize. They will be fine on too much ammonia. But as the concentration of ammonia available goes down, those bacteria will be dying back. At the same time the bacteria which can thrive at the lower levels will be colonizing.The only question is will his cause and issues along the way.
 
Yes, I'm after an easy fast way to cope with huge ammonia levels suddenly. Big fish or hundreds of small fish. Or sometimes boosted filters to use within a fish transport truck. Even a seeded filter would struggle to cope although fluidized beds ramp up fastest. Depending on the brand of ammonia, it can be a liter per 200L barrel. If the bacteria type changes over time, that's fine. Nature finds it's way.

For smaller water volumes, it's much easier to chemically bind the ammonia by dosing twice a week until the filters cycle. Unless you enjoy constantly dosing and measuring. I'm sure some people do.
 
The way that I do, I think, what you're doing here is to just run a bunch of extra Poret sponge filters (with air) in a tank with a large fish load - e.g.a fry grow out tank. If I'm going to set-up a new tank, I just grab a filter or two from the tank and add it to the new tank before I add fish. I dilute nitrates from the heavy fish load with (usually twice daily) auto-water changes of 10-20% (or more).
 
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I cannot do the above. My tanks are spead out in two building and 4 rooms (5 when I add in the summer tanks),

I cannot do the above because I needed to overstock 6 to 8 tanks and be able to do so faster than it took due to my bad bottle of bacteria and then my hubris. It is important to realize I was not cycling a filters for a few fish or tanks. I needed to move a lot of fish to new homes soon and safely.

It got more complicated when I had to press one of the 40Bs into use as an H tank. It is a toss-up as to whether the fish lives or dies. However, it n=meant I could not move the two 5 in foam cubes cycled into the tank. I cannot move the filters still in the bio-farm to another tank, so I am stuck with 4 x 5 inch cubes and one 4 inch as well.

Yesterday I moved filters into their summer tanks. All 3 20Ls are running with filters as is the 50. The 40b with the remainng filters is still a bio-farm for a bit longer. If the sick fish does not improve or die in the next few days I will have to find a way to deal with this. This will likely be to use a 15 gal. rubbermaid to hold the 5 inch foams for that 40B and the last of the two spare 4 inch foams. That will allow me to convert the bio-farm into a usable tank.

The 4 tanks set up yesterday each received a 2 ppm addition of ammonia-n using Dr. Tin's liquid ammonium chloride. I ml should produce that result. The 50B got 2.5 ml. The bio-farm for more.

The biggest challenge now is the sick fish. I will have to sterilize the tank before I can use it and i cannot use it until the fish recovers or dies ?
 
With luck, I will do two things tomorrow. The first will be to pull the remaining 3 filters in the bio-farm not needed until the sick fish dies (most likely) or recovers. (The 2nd spare 4x4 went into the H tank.) Those 3 filters will go into a rubbermaid with a heater. It will get dosed ammonia to 2-3 ppm every other day. That will allow me to convert the bio-farm and is 2 remaining 5x5 cubefilters into a usable tank for fish.

The tanks ready to be stiocked will also get ammonia every other day until they are about to receive fish. Then they get a big w c before the fish go in.

The second is the next step in the project which is to break down various breeding and grow tanks and take inventory. I need to select the exact fish I will offer for sale to move into which summer tank. I need to take as many pictures as I can of the fish in each summer tank. I plan to start with the Budrovcan line L236.

I have no clue what I am going to find when I get through all my tanks. I believe I may have as many as 200 pecos to move out. I will for sure be posting fish in the classifieds here. I also have a plan to help out fish clubs and sites.
 
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