Sump drain size

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
If your worried about price then go for the Rio pumps. I am going to use two of them in my 220 setup and should be getting around 1,600-1,700gph after head loss. I bought three Rio 20HF pumps for $60 each on Amazon. I will use two in my setup and keep the third as a spare, and to pump water out/in during water changes.

I don't think one of those pumps will be enough for your entire tank on its own. You will need another one and since you can't return that one, just add a Rio as the second pump. It should put your flow right where you need it when combined with the Little Giant you already have.

The plan to "extend" the tank needs to be thrown out the window. There is no way that will ever be reliable. In addition, you will be adding about 3-4" of water height to your glass tank that wasn't designed to go over 24" tall. I wouldn't risk that kind of additional pressure on the main tank glass. If that is the only way your dad is willing to set the tank up with the sump, then forget the sump and stick with canister/HOB filters. You can still build a DIY canister using the Little Giant pump if all else fails. If you guys don't want to drill the tank, then I recommend using a HOB overflow. You can get the kind that use a small suction pump to suck the air out so that the siphon can be re established if lost.

If you decide that you want to try to drill the tank, then you can go with an overflow setup that goes through the back wall of the tank instead of the bottom.

image.jpeg

Take a look at my overflow setup. If needed, this could be done with the tank still setup. Just drain the water down far enough and drill from the outside of the tank so that the glass doesn't run down into the tank. It will still be pretty messy but you shouldn't have any trouble getting it cleaned up when you're done. You don't need to drill holes for the returns, you can just run them over the top of the tank.

Just an FYI, I am using three 1.5" gravity overflows, rated for 1,200gph each, for a total of 3,600gph of total flow capability. This is so that I have over double the drain capacity for my desired flow, which means that if one of my drains were to ever get clogged, my system won't overflow.
 
If your worried about price then go for the Rio pumps. I am going to use two of them in my 220 setup and should be getting around 1,600-1,700gph after head loss. I bought three Rio 20HF pumps for $60 each on Amazon. I will use two in my setup and keep the third as a spare, and to pump water out/in during water changes.

I don't think one of those pumps will be enough for your entire tank on its own. You will need another one and since you can't return that one, just add a Rio as the second pump. It should put your flow right where you need it when combined with the Little Giant you already have.

The plan to "extend" the tank needs to be thrown out the window. There is no way that will ever be reliable. In addition, you will be adding about 3-4" of water height to your glass tank that wasn't designed to go over 24" tall. I wouldn't risk that kind of additional pressure on the main tank glass. If that is the only way your dad is willing to set the tank up with the sump, then forget the sump and stick with canister/HOB filters. You can still build a DIY canister using the Little Giant pump if all else fails. If you guys don't want to drill the tank, then I recommend using a HOB overflow. You can get the kind that use a small suction pump to suck the air out so that the siphon can be re established if lost.

If you decide that you want to try to drill the tank, then you can go with an overflow setup that goes through the back wall of the tank instead of the bottom.

View attachment 1196695

Take a look at my overflow setup. If needed, this could be done with the tank still setup. Just drain the water down far enough and drill from the outside of the tank so that the glass doesn't run down into the tank. It will still be pretty messy but you shouldn't have any trouble getting it cleaned up when you're done. You don't need to drill holes for the returns, you can just run them over the top of the tank.

Just an FYI, I am using three 1.5" gravity overflows, rated for 1,200gph each, for a total of 3,600gph of total flow capability. This is so that I have over double the drain capacity for my desired flow, which means that if one of my drains were to ever get clogged, my system won't overflow.
I'm not sure if the tank is tempered or not, so we can't drill it. I'm not sure if it can even be drilled with fish in it. I was looking at rio pumps, but I didn't know if they were reliable for their price. I'll tell him about the hob overflows with the pumps. He may like the idea since it will be less work than buying acryic panels and bonding them to the trim of the tank.
 
You can easily find out if it's tempered by using a polarized lens. 3D glasses from the movie theater, camera lenses, polarized sunglasses, etc. These can all tell you if it's polarized.

Btw, the trim on the tank is not usually water tight in my experience. I think that you would definitely have leaks at that point if that's the plan. I think your only option would be to drill it or use a HOB overflow. HOB overflow is easier but a drilled tank is probably more reliable.
 
You can easily find out if it's tempered by using a polarized lens. 3D glasses from the movie theater, camera lenses, polarized sunglasses, etc. These can all tell you if it's polarized.

Btw, the trim on the tank is not usually water tight in my experience. I think that you would definitely have leaks at that point if that's the plan. I think your only option would be to drill it or use a HOB overflow. HOB overflow is easier but a drilled tank is probably more reliable.
He was planning on using a food safe acrylic glue. According to him it would be safe for the fish once dry. I would provide a link, but I forgot what it was called.
 
You can easily find out if it's tempered by using a polarized lens. 3D glasses from the movie theater, camera lenses, polarized sunglasses, etc. These can all tell you if it's polarized.

Btw, the trim on the tank is not usually water tight in my experience. I think that you would definitely have leaks at that point if that's the plan. I think your only option would be to drill it or use a HOB overflow. HOB overflow is easier but a drilled tank is probably more reliable.
Any overflows you would recommend?
 
You will never get a proper seal adding acrylic to the top of the tank, there is not a chance it will ever hold water. So if you can I'd convince your dad to give up that idea. It'll just result in a wet floor and possibly a damaged tank.

Also I would be very surprised if a 220 gal tank is tempered on the sides. Only size I've heard of this being done on is a 55 gal.
 
He was planning on using a food safe acrylic glue. According to him it would be safe for the fish once dry. I would provide a link, but I forgot what it was called.

It's not the glue that I would be worried about. The trim on tanks is only put on to fasten it in place. It's not meant to actually hold water in. Then, there is really no products that are made that will securely hold and seal acrylic or plastic to glass. It will just leak out, even if not at first, it will happen pretty soon.

Any overflows you would recommend?

The overflows in my picture are Custom Aquarium's H2Overflow. Then the returns are their 3/4" siphon stopper returns. They are pricey but I really like the looks of them and in my opinion, I think they leave a ton more room in the tank compared to the dual corner overflows. The set of three H2Overflows and two 3/4" siphon stopper returns was over $400. However, if you wanted to make your own version that is similar to this, it can be done with some PVC and a type of drain fitting.

If you want a HOB overflow, I have always heard good things about CPR and Eshopps. I like the looks of the Eshopps more because they have a clear tube so you can see if air is building up in it. However, I think CPR is the one that allows you to attach a suction pump to the tube to draw the air out and keep the prime, or even reprime it if it's lost. I think both are good options.
 
It's not the glue that I would be worried about. The trim on tanks is only put on to fasten it in place. It's not meant to actually hold water in. Then, there is really no products that are made that will securely hold and seal acrylic or plastic to glass. It will just leak out, even if not at first, it will happen pretty soon.



The overflows in my picture are Custom Aquarium's H2Overflow. Then the returns are their 3/4" siphon stopper returns. They are pricey but I really like the looks of them and in my opinion, I think they leave a ton more room in the tank compared to the dual corner overflows. The set of three H2Overflows and two 3/4" siphon stopper returns was over $400. However, if you wanted to make your own version that is similar to this, it can be done with some PVC and a type of drain fitting.

If you want a HOB overflow, I have always heard good things about CPR and Eshopps. I like the looks of the Eshopps more because they have a clear tube so you can see if air is building up in it. However, I think CPR is the one that allows you to attach a suction pump to the tube to draw the air out and keep the prime, or even reprime it if it's lost. I think both are good options.
How big of a pump would I need?
 
How big of a pump would I need?

For all intensive purposes, your setup is pretty much identical to the gallons in mine so I would recommend the same pumps I'm going with: two Rio 20HF submersible pumps. Or, since you already have the Little Giant pump, and it looks to be rated about the same as the Rio model I mentioned, just use it and one Rio 20HF pump combined. I think it's a good idea to use two pumps so that you have a redundancy in case one fails, you will still have half of your flow until you get the other repaired/replaced.
 
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