Unhealthy green terror

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Meth blue is actually pretty versatile, good for a number of things, including external fungus and external bacteria-- so it's a good treatment and preventative measure for an externally injured fish. It also increases the oxygen carrying capacity of the blood in fish and some people use it to treat ammonia or nitrite poisoning. I'm not guaranteeing anything but I've saved more than a fish or two that looked pretty far gone with meth blue.

I wouldn't feed right now. Stress taxes the energy reserves of fish, especially severe stress. Feeding now-- if he'd even eat right now-- would take away energy he needs to recover.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Terror fanboii 1
Thanks ?
I will not feed him and i will put some methy blue in it and do you know after how many days i should water change ? and how much?
 
It's only been about 6 hours since the advice was given to not feed. A while in this case would be an a few days if not a week or more
 
It's only been about 6 hours since the advice was given to not feed. A while in this case would be an a few days if not a week or more
I was asking cuz he is looking very thin. After how much time i should water change ??
 
He's in a 5 gal bucket, right? Any kind of filter running?

As far as feeding, how does he look, still very dark? And how is he acting? What kind of food do you have to offer?
Yes he is in a 5. no filters. yes still dark but better now. he is not moving. hikari cichlid gold
 
Okay. If it was me, I'd change at least half the water per day, and that's if I wasn't feeding-- remember, I'm thinking very short term here.

Feeding is more problematic with no filtration. A rudimentary way to set up a bit of filtration is to take a bit of used filter media from a running filter, whether poly floss, sponge, some bio-beads or whatever, then contain it in some way-- which is to say wrap it in a bio-bag, mesh bag, some cheesecloth, women's nylons, something that allows water to flow through-- and place it near some water flow, which you can create with a decent air bubbler. And/or-- put some sand or gravel from an established tank in the bottom of the bucket-- from a well established tank this will also have beneficial bacteria.

Believe it or not, this will create some nitrogen cycling in the bucket, especially if you create some current with an air pump. You might remember the derecho storm a few years ago that hit some eastern states-- in any case we had a 9 day power outage where I live, also a heat wave. I kept several tanks of fish alive, using a scaled up version of what I just described with battery operated air pumps. I tested, and ammonia stayed very low to undetectable.

Meth blue can be, but isn't necessarily a problem for beneficial bacteria. For mature tanks and filters not a problem at all ime-- I've thoroughly tested this. For a set up like I'm suggesting, not sure, so I'd keep an eye on ammonia in the bucket.

All of this would be minimal and short term like I mentioned above. Again, I'd recommend either setting up a tub for a few bucks or, better yet, set up a 5 or 10 gal desk top tank with a small, cheap filter, if this is going to last more than a few days before getting him into the main tank with a divider. In my case I'd do a tub over a bucket in the first place-- more surface area to water depth means better oxygen exchange with the atmosphere, better than a bucket-- but in the bucket scenario it would only be an emergency option until I see he's revived, looks like he has a shot at surviving the ordeal, and then I'd get him into better living quarters one way or another.

Feeding-- again, no filter in the bucket complicates this, besides the energy/stress issue that means he needs to recover some before eating much. SO-- if he is willing to eat, I'd feed very lightly until he perks up a little bit, just a few flakes of flake food per day, by a few I mean two or three or four, etc, not a spoonful. Alternately a small freeze dried shrimp or two, just enough to provide a little food energy without requiring much energy for digestion. No pellet or sinking food. That way if he doesn't go for the food fairly quickly you can net it our pretty easily with minimal effect on water quality. Again, if he keeps improving this would be as short term as the bucket should be.
 
Last edited:
Okay. If it was me, I'd change at least half the water per day, and that's if I wasn't feeding-- remember, I'm thinking very short term here.

Feeding is more problematic with no filtration. A rudimentary way to set up a bit of filtration is to take a bit of used filter media from a running filter, whether poly floss, sponge, some bio-beads or whatever, then contain it in some way-- which is to say wrap it in a bio-bag, mesh bag, some cheesecloth, women's nylons, something that allows water to flow through-- and place it near some water flow, which you can create with a decent air bubbler. And/or-- put some sand or gravel from an established tank in the bottom of the bucket-- from a well established tank this will also have beneficial bacteria.

Believe it or not, this will create some nitrogen cycling in the bucket, especially if you create some current with an air pump. You might remember the derecho storm a few years ago that hit some eastern states-- in any case we had a 9 day power outage where I live, also a heat wave. I kept several tanks of fish alive, using a scaled up version of what I just described with battery operated air pumps. I tested, and ammonia stayed very low to undetectable.

Meth blue can be, but isn't necessarily a problem for beneficial bacteria. For mature tanks and filters not a problem at all ime-- I've thoroughly tested this. For a set up like I'm suggesting, not sure, so I'd keep an eye on ammonia in the bucket.

All of this would be minimal and short term like I mentioned above. Again, I'd recommend either setting up a tub for a few bucks or, better yet, set up a 5 or 10 gal desk top tank with a small, cheap filter, if this is going to last more than a few days before getting him into the main tank with a divider. In my case I'd do a tub over a bucket in the first place-- more surface area to water depth means better oxygen exchange with the atmosphere, better than a bucket-- but in the bucket scenario it would only be an emergency option until I see he's revived, looks like he has a shot at surviving the ordeal, and then I'd get him into better living quarters one way or another.

Feeding-- again, no filter in the bucket complicates this, besides the energy/stress issue that means he needs to recover some before eating much. SO-- if he is willing to eat, I'd feed very lightly until he perks up a little bit, just a few flakes of flake food per day, by a few I mean two or three or four, etc, not a spoonful. Alternately a small freeze dried shrimp or two, just enough to provide a little food energy without requiring much energy for digestion. No pellet or sinking food. That way if he doesn't go for the food fairly quickly you can net it our pretty easily with minimal effect on water quality. Again, if he keeps improving this would be as short term as the bucket should be.
Thank you
i fed him some flakes now he is moving and becoming active i have putted some lava rocks from my tank in the bucket with one artificial plant from my tank. i will water change daily.but from which water ? tank or my tap ??
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com