Think about this: "Dilution is the solution to pollution".
If you have 40ppm of nitrate and do a 50% water change, with 0ppm nitrate in the replacement water, now you have 20ppm right? How long will it take to get back up to 40ppm? A week, two weeks? Who knows. It would have to be observed and tested daily. The point is, water quality varies. It will reach equalibrium eventually, but the goal in doing water changes is to eliminate toxins in the water. Nitrate is a toxin. Tolerated by the fish to a certain degree, but a toxin and source of stress to your fish. People are usually ok if their fish live in 20-40ppm nitrate. Me, not so much. That is why I do more than 50%. I do 75% weekly, and still have a nitrate residual of 10ppm. Nitrate can be attributed to a number of things including a shorter life span and elevated stress in fish.
Bottom line, dilute that nitrate as much as possible. Some aquarist utilize a nitrate reductor and they work awesome, just expensive. The cheapest insurance and assurance is large frequent water changes.
If you have 40ppm of nitrate and do a 50% water change, with 0ppm nitrate in the replacement water, now you have 20ppm right? How long will it take to get back up to 40ppm? A week, two weeks? Who knows. It would have to be observed and tested daily. The point is, water quality varies. It will reach equalibrium eventually, but the goal in doing water changes is to eliminate toxins in the water. Nitrate is a toxin. Tolerated by the fish to a certain degree, but a toxin and source of stress to your fish. People are usually ok if their fish live in 20-40ppm nitrate. Me, not so much. That is why I do more than 50%. I do 75% weekly, and still have a nitrate residual of 10ppm. Nitrate can be attributed to a number of things including a shorter life span and elevated stress in fish.
Bottom line, dilute that nitrate as much as possible. Some aquarist utilize a nitrate reductor and they work awesome, just expensive. The cheapest insurance and assurance is large frequent water changes.