White spot disease pls help me

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
duanes said:
I do not raise temp when treating ick.
Although raising temp helps speed up the ick life cycle, it does not kill ick, especially ick variants from tropical countries..
And the raised temps sometimes make accompanying secondary bacterial infections more virulent.
Many pathogenic bacteria do best at higher temps, high 80sF to mid 90sF are just what thry need, and then they take advantage of the holes and lesions left where ick had attached to the fish.
Click to expand...
tiger15 said:
No need to do water change before dosing as ingredients in Paraguard biodegrade in 24 hours as per instruction. However, it won’t hurt to do WC as it can physically remove ick spores. Paraguard is beneficial for planted tanks as Glutaldehyde is liquid carbon in Seachem Excel to boost plant growth.

Seachem Paraguard


Directions: Use 5 mL (1 capful) to every 40 L (10 gal) to attain therapeutic levels of

Glutaldehyde 0.013 mg in 1 mL (13 mg/l)

Malachite Green 0.00004 mg in 1 mL (0.04 mg/l)



Repeat daily as required as long as fish show no stress. For 1 hour dips, use 3 mL per 4 L (1 gallon*). Dips may be extended if fish show no evidence of stress. Water changes during treatment aren’t necessary as after 24 hours, Paraguard is no longer active and will not build up to toxic levels. This also means that you must repeat the dose daily if you wish to achieve maximum effectiveness. If water changes are required for any other reason, you should change the water and then do that day’s dosage of Paraguard immediately after the water change to ensure you’re maintaining a therapeutic dosage in the water column.
Click to expand...
Tj203 said:
Don't raise the t
Click to expand...
Rocksor said:
Looks like I found my answer , from Seachem



Since both Paraguard and water conditioners are reducing agents, Seachem recommends waiting Wait at least 24 hours after using a water conditioner (in the aquarium) before treating with malachite/formaldehyde based products so that the oxygen level is not reduced in the tank.

Ive used Paraguard 3 hours after using water conditioner in a tank with a sponge filter and airstone with no issues.
Click to expand...
My bad guys I raised the temp to 29 d yesterday and I'm seeing your comments today should I lower the temp
Since I turned up temp I see very less white spots on my fish
 
The reason you see less spots when the temp rises, is the life cycle is speeded up, 100 new ick develop faster, and hatch off the fish faster, and those new ick (if not subjected to strong enough meds), or high enough salinity, can reinfect the fish in the tank.
If you treated properly, less spots are a good thing, if not treated sufficiently (because new ick are microscopic/too small to be seen with the naked eye) it could be deceptive.
Once you've raised the temp, you might as well leave it, commit. Its more stressful to have temps bounce around for the fish.
 
duanes said:
The reason you see less spots when the temp rises, is the life cycle is speeded up, 100 new ick develop faster, and hatch off the fish faster, and those new ick (if not subjected to strong enough meds), or high enough salinity, can reinfect the fish in the tank.
If you treated properly, less spots are a good thing, if not treated sufficiently (because new ick are microscopic/too small to be seen with the naked eye) it could be deceptive.
Once you've raised the temp, you might as well leave it, commit. Its more stressful to have temps bounce around for the fish.
Click to expand...
I was told the exact opposite of that from a veteran. She told me not to raise the temp because of the added stress on the fish. I had my tanks temp raised but she had me turn it down. Also dose meds after the lights go out because that is when the ich hatches and started looking for a host.
 
Tj203 said:
I was told the exact opposite of that from a veteran. She told me not to raise the temp because of the added stress on the fish. I had my tanks temp raised but she had me turn it down. Also dose meds after the lights go out because that is when the ich hatches and started looking for a host.
Click to expand...
Do what you like, I've only been keeping fish since 1960, and spent 20 years as a aquatic-microbiologist.
 
Tj203 said:
I was told the exact opposite of that from a veteran. She told me not to raise the temp because of the added stress on the fish. I had my tanks temp raised but she had me turn it down. Also dose meds after the lights go out because that is when the ich hatches and started looking for a host.
Click to expand...
The reason you avoid raising the temp is that it will reduce O2 as affected fish are already struggling to breath due to ick infection in the gills.

Ive not seen evidence that ick larvae hatch only at night but MG remedy is photodegradable so it can last longer in darkness. I would much prefer administrating remedy in light so I can observe the reactions of fish so I can reverse medication as needed.
 
duanes said:
Do what you like, I've only been keeping fish since 1960, and spent 20 years as a aquatic-microbiologist.
Click to expand...
Things change. Up until 2 months ago I thought the same thing. I treated with salt and heat then meds if that did not work usually dose. But this forum is about helping other people I did not me any disrespect when I sead you were worng I was just stating what a veteran told me. Here is a copy of one of her email.

Trevor,
Ich is so frustrating, I hear you. I hope some of my advice helps - additionally, I've done some more research for you and have some more ideas:
  • Frequent water changes with a high amount of fish is still a good idea! But while changing the water removes the active motile stages of the parasite, managing water parameters daily, making sure they are staying stable can become harder (which you're already doing anyway, but keep this up)!
  • Treatment depends on the underlying infection, once Ich is in the tank it can be very hard to manage over time as the cysts can last in the environment / the fish can tolerate low levels of them, even if we treated it years ago and haven't had any issues
My main goals for your treatment:
  • If it were my tank I would try the 1,3,5,7 day treatment, give the dose of formaldehyde day 1, on day 3 change 50% of the water, retreat the tank and do that for the various days until day 7. Give it a break for a week, repeat once more. This changes what we discussed over the phone last time, but worth a shot!
  • Keeping the lights off for the entirety of the treatment (days 1,3,5,7)
  • While water changing siphon the gravel (where the cysts sit)
  • Reduce stress as much as you can (air stones, you were right on point with this one, remove the highest carriers and quarantine them in a separate tank if you can, reducing temperature by one degree for the course of the treatment)
  • The higher level of infection will be seen because with a higher heat cycle (keeping the tank at a high temp) increases the speed of the lifecycle of the parasite, will then see more of the parasite, so we could technically clear it easier by speeding up the life cycle but we're also infecting the fish faster, a catch-22!!
Good luck, let me know how it goes. Please send over the client info packet when you can!
Thank you!
Dr. Offutt
 
How is copper as freshwater ich treatment? I know it is the go to for marine, is it just excessive for freshwater?
 
Deadeye said:
How is copper as freshwater ich treatment? I know it is the go to for marine, is it just excessive for freshwater?
Click to expand...
It depends on what you have in your tank snail and other types of fish don't do good.

The ingredients in Ich x are the best to use. Don't have to be that brand just those 2 ingredients
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deadeye
Tj203 said:
Things change. Up until 2 months ago I thought the same thing. I treated with salt and heat then meds if that did not work usually dose. But this forum is about helping other people I did not me any disrespect when I sead you were worng I was just stating what a veteran told me. Here is a copy of one of her email.

Trevor,
Ich is so frustrating, I hear you. I hope some of my advice helps - additionally, I've done some more research for you and have some more ideas:
  • Frequent water changes with a high amount of fish is still a good idea! But while changing the water removes the active motile stages of the parasite, managing water parameters daily, making sure they are staying stable can become harder (which you're already doing anyway, but keep this up)!
  • Treatment depends on the underlying infection, once Ich is in the tank it can be very hard to manage over time as the cysts can last in the environment / the fish can tolerate low levels of them, even if we treated it years ago and haven't had any issues
My main goals for your treatment:
  • If it were my tank I would try the 1,3,5,7 day treatment, give the dose of formaldehyde day 1, on day 3 change 50% of the water, retreat the tank and do that for the various days until day 7. Give it a break for a week, repeat once more. This changes what we discussed over the phone last time, but worth a shot!
  • Keeping the lights off for the entirety of the treatment (days 1,3,5,7)
  • While water changing siphon the gravel (where the cysts sit)
  • Reduce stress as much as you can (air stones, you were right on point with this one, remove the highest carriers and quarantine them in a separate tank if you can, reducing temperature by one degree for the course of the treatment)
  • The higher level of infection will be seen because with a higher heat cycle (keeping the tank at a high temp) increases the speed of the lifecycle of the parasite, will then see more of the parasite, so we could technically clear it easier by speeding up the life cycle but we're also infecting the fish faster, a catch-22!!
Good luck, let me know how it goes. Please send over the client info packet when you can!
Thank you!
Dr. Offutt
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm trying best to supply oxygen but more oxygen supply leads to more water flow
Since I have baby fishes strong current can be more stressful
I will let u know as the ich disappesr
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom