Why we test (after a cycle is done)

[dan518]

Alot of this debate assumes people know the bio load in there tank. Alot of people seem to think that there 6 inch trimac will be twice as big when it hits 12 inch. A 6 inch trimac weighs about 200 grams, 12 inch 1000 grams, at 14 inch your looking at 1500 grams or equivalent to adding a 10 inch jaguar cichlid.
Your water change schedule that worked for your 13 inch fish might not be enough to cope with your 14 inch fish. While I don't think home test kits a very accurate, they work as a tool to periodically compare the tank water with your tap water and as long as you know your water report you can get a rough idea.

 

[Fishflyer]

Alot of this debate assumes people know the bio load in there tank. Alot of people seem to think that there 6 inch trimac will be twice as big when it hits 12 inch. A 6 inch trimac weighs about 200 grams, 12 inch 1000 grams, at 14 inch your looking at 1500 grams or equivalent to adding a 10 inch jaguar cichlid.
Your water change schedule that worked for your 13 inch fish might not be enough to cope with your 14 inch fish. While I don't think home test kits a very accurate, they work as a tool to periodically compare the tank water with your tap water and as long as you know your water report you can get a rough idea.

There are a some folks coming at this subject with some varying opinions. I think this is good because it gives those less experienced to pick a template that works for their situation. I think everyone commenting on this thread has good care of their fish in mind.
I have been in the hobby about 45 years and have multiple tanks. I have an API master kit and I know it is one of the best around, but some of the colors swatches on the cards are a little ambiguous and hard to discern.

I too test my established tanks less frequently, although I used to be very vigiliant about it, but am strict about my water changes and careful about observing all my fish, (which I am very fond of--all) watching out for the slightest behavior that is unusual to that fish. I note and applaud FINWIN for being extremely observant of her fish's behavior as I think you all do.
I spend a large part of my income that doesn't go to bills and food on fish care and improvements.

I am, however, vigilant about frequent testing when I upgrade to a new tank to accommodate for fish growth anticipating it's room needs in advance. I use material and water from it's (their) old tank to jump start the beneficial bacteria bio cycle.

 

[Coryloach]

but am strict about my water changes and careful about observing all my fish, (which I am very fond of--all) watching out for the slightest behavior that is unusual to that fish.

I think this is the key. I see many folks when they're worried about something take out the test tube. If it tells them the water is "OK" they just sit back and watch the fish continue its suffering...

Observation is key. Fish don't lie where tests can.

I don't test for ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. I pretty much know just by the looks of it when a tank is too small for the bioload. I also know when my fish are not behaving right too. I don't need a test to tell me that as the tests are going to tell me that my tank water is "OK" when it isn't......Fish health and activity levels are the most important indicator of things being right or wrong.

I do use a TDS meter to measure increase in pollution and I go by that because it's quite reflective of any increase of TDS vs the base tap water used for water changes. But my tanks these days are all considerably lightly stocked and planted so I rarely have any noticeable buildup between the large weekly water changes. Plants also take up ammonia at source before it's been oxidized compromising oxygen levels and mine are emersed, making them quite efficient at removing fresh fish waste. I am also able to overfeed quite a lot without any issues, just happier plants, and I can stock a lot more if I fancied that route but I don't....The less possible waste build up, the better the fish health.

 

[Coryloach]

Here's an ugly picture of my 240G indoor pond and a video of the inhabitants below. Sorry about the net, too lazy to remove for pictures...

And an underwater video below. Fish age is between 8 years(kuhli loaches seemingly now living in the plant baskets), 7 years(the oldest bunch of clown loaches) and 2 years(latest addition was a bunch of harlequin rasboras)

 

[Fishflyer]

I think this is the key. I see many folks when they're worried about something take out the test tube. If it tells them the water is "OK" they just sit back and watch the fish continue its suffering...

Observation is key. Fish don't lie where tests can.

I don't test for ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. I pretty much know just by the looks of it when a tank is too small for the bioload. I also know when my fish are not behaving right too. I don't need a test to tell me that as the tests are going to tell me that my tank water is "OK" when it isn't......Fish health and activity levels are the most important indicator of things being right or wrong.

I do use a TDS meter to measure increase in pollution and I go by that because it's quite reflective of any increase of TDS vs the base tap water used for water changes. But my tanks these days are all considerably lightly stocked and planted so I rarely have any noticeable buildup between the large weekly water changes. Plants also take up ammonia at source before it's been oxidized compromising oxygen levels and mine are emersed, making them quite efficient at removing fresh fish waste. I am also able to overfeed quite a lot without any issues, just happier plants, and I can stock a lot more if I fancied that route but I don't....The less possible waste build up, the better the fish health.

Great points. I forgot to mention too that my tanks are well planted. It is an interdependancy between the fish and plants, and I often call my aquariums my Underwater or Aquatic Gardens. Not that the fish are a by product. Most of us know the plants add to the fish's comfort in somewhat naturalizing their environment and by adding cover to lower stress levels, as well as adding to fish health by absorbing toxins and utilizing fish waste as fertilizer all culminating in more plant growth and releasing more oxygen. I have fun taking plant cuttings and new shoots and transferring them between my tanks.

I would also like to comment and agree with what C Coryloach said about knowing your aquarium. Become instinctive about your tank conditions. Like he said; know what is abnormal in your aquarium and become intuitive about your fish's behavior. Most of you probably are. When I started my gym and was a bodybuilder and a trainer/coach I taught instinctive training and to know one's body. Great progress was made this way.
In a way your aquarium is a body and a microcosm -- miniature universe, planet that you created. The better you take care of it, the more it takes care of itself. If there is a problem puzzle it out, research or ask for help. For instance a common problem is algae--too much light, or too many nutrients in water, too few plants, not enough algae eating creatures, or introduced algae spores.
As for water changes--you are the water god of your microcosm....so bring it on and make it rain, and revel in the joy it brings to your fish. That should make the water changes not such a chore. It works for me. Or make it an ingrained part of your routine; like brushing your teeth.