Need an autopsy report

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
ColeFishing said:
Ok so I bought the API master test kit today. I don't want to try it out on my main tank(the one we've been discussing) because I did a water change on it this morning an I want to let the water set. I will probably do one tonight though. I did however test it on my 10 gallon tank. Tank specs are fluval C3 filter, many live plants, temp around 74F. The stock is one female pearl Honduran red point, 3 synodontis petricolas. I just want to make sure that I have the right idea of what I'm doing. I followed the instructions exactly. From left to right it goes ammonia, NO2, NO3. Is this good?


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter you can test water now. Each test kit is like 500 tests. Need to know asap.

_________________________________________________________________________
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS

*Go S. Vettel #1 rb8--3 MORE RACES LEFT! LET'S MAKE IT 5 BACK TO BACK WINS & 3 WDC!* :beer:
 
F1 VET said:
It doesn't matter you can test water now. Each test kit is like 500 tests. Need to know asap.
Click to expand...
Yes, test right away. The water equalizes in a matter of a few hours at most, usually, after a WC.
Each test is roughly enough for 150-200 times.
 
ColeFishing said:
From left to right it goes ammonia, NO2, NO3. Is this good?
Click to expand...

Excellent way - I like photos.

NO2 and NO3 are very good. It looks like 0.25-0.5 ppm NH3. This is no good. It should read zero, sometimes between zero and 0.25 ppm after a particularly heavy feeding for a very short time but usually zero. The good way is to test your tap water for NH3 also and to compare two vials next to each other.

Some other chemicals can cause false positive for NH3, e.g., certain nitrogen-containing dyes, often used as meds, such as acriflavine, etc., but this is too much atm.
 
Ok so now stuff gets going. I'm waiting for the results on the main tank to settle but I also saved the ammonia test tube from earlier and did an ammonia test from where I get my water for water changes. On the left, we have the water from my 10 gallon I showed you earlier. On the right is the water which I get from my bath tub to fill up my tanks. It's very similar in cooler.


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app

ImageUploadedByMonsterAquariaNetwork1351902379.714747.jpg
 
F1 VET said:
Looks fine to me, what about nitrates?

_________________________________________________________________________
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS

*Go S. Vettel #1 rb8--3 MORE RACES LEFT! LET'S MAKE IT 5 BACK TO BACK WINS & 3 WDC!* :beer:
Click to expand...

The nitrates were the yellow colored tube reading 0ppm. The nitrites was the blue tube also reading 0 ppm.

Here is we're the problem lies. The ammonia is very very high. How can I decrease it. However, if you look at my earlier post about my water source it looks like it has a lot of ammonia already in it. What do I do?


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
ColeFishing said:
The nitrates were the yellow colored tube reading 0ppm. The nitrites was the blue tube also reading 0 ppm.

Here is we're the problem lies. The ammonia is very very high. How can I decrease it. However, if you look at my earlier post about my water source it looks like it has a lot of ammonia already in it. What do I do?


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
Click to expand...



Oh I thought the yellow was the ammonia tube....Dang.


Just keep up on every other day 25-50% wc till your second bb colony grows. Feed less if fish are not juvys, if you haven't already done a wc, do one now with prime.
_________________________________________________________________________
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS

*Go S. Vettel #1 rb8--3 MORE RACES LEFT! LET'S MAKE IT 5 BACK TO BACK WINS & 3 WDC!* :beer:
 
F1 VET said:
Oh I thought the yellow was the ammonia tube....Dang.


Just keep up on every other day 25-50% wc till your second bb colony grows. Feed less if fish are not juvys, if you haven't already done a wc, do one now with prime.
_________________________________________________________________________
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS

*Go S. Vettel #1 rb8--3 MORE RACES LEFT! LET'S MAKE IT 5 BACK TO BACK WINS & 3 WDC!* :beer:
Click to expand...

Did one earlier today around 30%. I used plenty of prime and salt. Also what is a second bb colony? Feeding will be cut. Is their anything I should add in my filter that could help with this. After all I need to change it anyways.


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
Maybe i missed it, but what filtration are you running? as much detail about your setup might help figure out a chink in it. personally im not a fan of aquarium salt.. and doing frequent water changes are going to make measuring it properly challenging... not impossable but the chance for over dosing your fish is there. ive found more delicate species to have osmo issues only when salt is used. AS long as your ammonia stays under 4ppm and nitrites 1ppm salt to protect the gill tissue seems to be irrelivant. what salt does is increase your fishes slime coat production, and effects them on a osmo regulator level. which in lamena turn stressed the body into "survival" mode. extended exposure to species that are use to little or no salinity do not benefit from longer then 24 hour exposure ime and can start showing negative effects.

imo doing the 25-30% wcs daily or bidaily until the tank starts regulating. and addressing the problem during the time frame... the water changes are buying you time to find and fix the problem. generally they are not a fix in themselves with an established tank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom