FYI: the black matala mat (low density) and K1 micro don't mix. The mat was letting pieces by because of the width/flex (32" wide). The low density part was getting pieces stuck in it as well. It's great for K1,2,3 etc... but micro = hard no
New Build ~ 600 Gallon
- Thread starter JK47
- Start date
To add some rigidity to it I build a frame out of formufit (furniture grade PVC). A lot of the reef guys use this stuff and I've wanting to experiment for future tank builds. The black matala is swapped with grey (high density) as well.
The frame holds every piece in securely and nothing is flexing at all. The bed is boiling perfect as well. Really pleased with how this came out.
The frame holds every piece in securely and nothing is flexing at all. The bed is boiling perfect as well. Really pleased with how this came out.
The tank is chewing through about 3.0 ammonia down to 0.0 in 24 hours. This is 7PM daily over the last 48 hours. Filters are ready for fish now so I need to hook up the drip system today in order to move fish tomorow.
This is the coupler I put in months ago knowing I would have the drip exit in this general area. I can just swap out the coupler with a tee to splice into the drip exit line. There is about 22"x60" of space for me to lay in while installing so I build everything in advance to limit the time (AKA back pain) spent under the stand. If you guys remember I put a bulkhead in the sump in this area that is temporarily blocked.
All my drip exit and incoming lines are quick disconnect so they are modular. That makes it adjustable down the road as with everything else on this build.
This is the bulkhead I'll swap out in the sump, while down there. It 's a 1.5" bulkhead fitting tapered down to 1/2" quick disconnect lines. The upturned elbow is so I can adjust the water level in the sump easily without turning off a pump. Just thread in a new standpipe and walk away...
This is the coupler I put in months ago knowing I would have the drip exit in this general area. I can just swap out the coupler with a tee to splice into the drip exit line. There is about 22"x60" of space for me to lay in while installing so I build everything in advance to limit the time (AKA back pain) spent under the stand. If you guys remember I put a bulkhead in the sump in this area that is temporarily blocked.
All my drip exit and incoming lines are quick disconnect so they are modular. That makes it adjustable down the road as with everything else on this build.
This is the bulkhead I'll swap out in the sump, while down there. It 's a 1.5" bulkhead fitting tapered down to 1/2" quick disconnect lines. The upturned elbow is so I can adjust the water level in the sump easily without turning off a pump. Just thread in a new standpipe and walk away...
Today:
-Install drip exit lines.
-Install heated emergency ATO (auto top off, mechanical float valve) as a double fail safe for power outages.
-Install drip incoming lines. (temporary) I'm building a manifold that mounts on the nursery stand when the metal fab is done. Wait till you guys see this design. Epic....
Tomorrow:
-Move Frea (28" leichardti arowana) into the tank.
-Run the lines for LED's (tank, under stand and feed lights).
-Move a couple male rays around to spend a bit of one on one time with a few females.
-Install drip exit lines.
-Install heated emergency ATO (auto top off, mechanical float valve) as a double fail safe for power outages.
-Install drip incoming lines. (temporary) I'm building a manifold that mounts on the nursery stand when the metal fab is done. Wait till you guys see this design. Epic....
Tomorrow:
-Move Frea (28" leichardti arowana) into the tank.
-Run the lines for LED's (tank, under stand and feed lights).
-Move a couple male rays around to spend a bit of one on one time with a few females.
Thanks. Just trying to make use of a pre-existing hole and keep it modular. I've use this setup over the years lots of times and really like it. I use 4 GPH drip emitters split via tees with ball valves. I'll have pics up late tonight of the incoming lines.
Exit lines are finished.
This line needs to be gravity fed (fail safe). For me, 1/2" line is perfect for drip exit lines (4-16 GPH). Been doing it this way for years and like that for quick power downs it doesn't drain too quickly. All my lines are ran this way and it is awesome for switching out components with all Home Depot parts.
This line needs to be gravity fed (fail safe). For me, 1/2" line is perfect for drip exit lines (4-16 GPH). Been doing it this way for years and like that for quick power downs it doesn't drain too quickly. All my lines are ran this way and it is awesome for switching out components with all Home Depot parts.
I don't know what a wye is to be honest. This is a tiny overflow for the excess water from the drip system, to exit into a drain line for the room. It is flexible 1/2" line. I used an existing hole in the sump to plumb the drip exit. The inside standpipe (white 1/2" PVC pipe) is adjustable so I can adjust to different water levels in the sump from switching pumps etc.. hope that helps explain the pics
