Flooded/soaked carpet

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Under some of mine, I just used thick (2"-3"), strong, styrofoam (which will adjust to inconsistencies in the floor on its own) and I used the kind, with foil type barrier to hold heat, directly under the sump/tank.
The same kind I tape to the back and sides of tanks. If gets soaked, cheap, and easy to replace.

below, another shot of float shut off valve sending water to the tank, there are other types available

here's a link, they can be life savers (time, floor, marriage)
Coralife Pure-Flo II RO Float Valve
 
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duanes said:
Under some of mine, I just used thick (2"-3"), strong, styrofoam (which will adjust to inconsistencies in the floor on its own) and I used the kind, with foil type barrier to hold heat, directly under the sump/tank.
The same kind I tape to the back and sides of tanks. If gets soaked, cheap, and easy to replace.

below, another shot of float shut off valve sending water to the tank, there are other types available

here's a link, they can be life savers (time, floor, marriage)
Coralife Pure-Flo II RO Float Valve
Click to expand...

Absolutely getting the float switch. Can it be connected to the hose while refilling the tank ?
 
duanes said:
Under some of mine, I just used thick (2"-3"), strong, styrofoam (which will adjust to inconsistencies in the floor on its own) and I used the kind, with foil type barrier to hold heat, directly under the sump/tank.
The same kind I tape to the back and sides of tanks. If gets soaked, cheap, and easy to replace.

below, another shot of float shut off valve sending water to the tank, there are other types available

here's a link, they can be life savers (time, floor, marriage)
Coralife Pure-Flo II RO Float Valve
Click to expand...

What ever i lay under the sump will have to also be laid under the stand or else i'll have to redo plumbing. I need to keep the height on both the same
 
Dixon81 said:
I wouldn't put plywood under it. Any water is still going to soak into the plywood and could possibly separate the layers and grown mold..
Click to expand...
QUOTE="jaws7777, post: 7855823, member: 121129"]ply wood is just to keep the sump and stand on a level surface off the floor.[/QUOTE]
jaws7777 said:
Guys is 3/4 plywood thick enough ?
Click to expand...

Hello; For a layer directly on the floor with the sump and tank on top even 1/2 ply inch should be enough. Put a straight edge on the floor where the tank sits and look for any humps in the cement. The high spots can be ground down a bit.
I am with Dixon81 on the ply getting soaked and you being back to square one with regard to having to move the tank. Even painted plywood eventually will get wet. The only stuff I have found is the two part epoxy mentioned in my earlier post. Look in the shower stall or house exterior or such area of a home improvement store. You want something non organic with dimpled or raised groves and air channels under the sump directly on the floor to allow it to dry out.
They make a product for garage floors called "race deck" I think. It is plastic squares with lots of channels that snap together. That could be put on top of the vinyl flooring and under the stand and sump. You can get nice edges for a finished look.
I would not put plywood directly on a cement floor. You generally do not want wood to touch cement. Cement can, and often does draw moisture, on its own. Now days a vapor barrier is often placed down before a slab is poured. They even will put down sheets of foam board and pour the cement on top of that and the vapor barrier.
At the very least the foam sheeting or something like it that they lay on top of a cement foundation wall and under the wood sill plate should be used under the ply.

While plywood can work I would look for something else or at least find a way to get it off of the cement.

jaws7777 said:
i was gonna lay the flooring around it was i wouldnt have to move the tank further away to the other side of the room.
Click to expand...

Hello; While I always liked to lay vinyl sheet flooring in an empty room, it can be done with big things in the way. If you plan to use the one piece vinyl sheeting it can be worked in with the tank in the room. The tank will have to be moved a couple of times. First move the tank as far away from its final resting spot as possible. Lay the sheet of vinyl down on the open side of the room with some folded over. Once that part is glued down pick up the tank and carry it over the folded part of the vinyl and set it in it's final resting place. Then the rest of the flooring can be unfolded and glued down.

What I did in the room where I have my tanks was to use the 12inch vinyl squares used commercially. Such as used in a store like a Wal-Mart. The stuff is thick and should be durable. The tank is already out of the way for that sort of flooring.

Good luck
 
skjl47 said:
QUOTE="jaws7777, post: 7855823, member: 121129"]ply wood is just to keep the sump and stand on a level surface off the floor.
Click to expand...


Hello; For a layer directly on the floor with the sump and tank on top even 1/2 ply inch should be enough. Put a straight edge on the floor where the tank sits and look for any humps in the cement. The high spots can be ground down a bit.
I am with Dixon81 on the ply getting soaked and you being back to square one with regard to having to move the tank. Even painted plywood eventually will get wet. The only stuff I have found is the two part epoxy mentioned in my earlier post. Look in the shower stall or house exterior or such area of a home improvement store. You want something non organic with dimpled or raised groves and air channels under the sump directly on the floor to allow it to dry out.
They make a product for garage floors called "race deck" I think. It is plastic squares with lots of channels that snap together. That could be put on top of the vinyl flooring and under the stand and sump. You can get nice edges for a finished look.
I would not put plywood directly on a cement floor. You generally do not want wood to touch cement. Cement can, and often does draw moisture, on its own. Now days a vapor barrier is often placed down before a slab is poured. They even will put down sheets of foam board and pour the cement on top of that and the vapor barrier.
At the very least the foam sheeting or something like it that they lay on top of a cement foundation wall and under the wood sill plate should be used under the ply.

While plywood can work I would look for something else or at least find a way to get it off of the cement.



Hello; While I always liked to lay vinyl sheet flooring in an empty room, it can be done with big things in the way. If you plan to use the one piece vinyl sheeting it can be worked in with the tank in the room. The tank will have to be moved a couple of times. First move the tank as far away from its final resting spot as possible. Lay the sheet of vinyl down on the open side of the room with some folded over. Once that part is glued down pick up the tank and carry it over the folded part of the vinyl and set it in it's final resting place. Then the rest of the flooring can be unfolded and glued down.

What I did in the room where I have my tanks was to use the 12inch vinyl squares used commercially. Such as used in a store like a Wal-Mart. The stuff is thick and should be durable. The tank is already out of the way for that sort of flooring.

Good luck[/QUOTE]

She wants me to lay the flooring through out meaning underthe tank too. Sothe flooring would be between the cement and the plywood. The floor snaps together. My issue is i need to get this done in the next two days
 
Also going to.lay a tarp under the sump ontop of the ply wood.

Good ?
 
skjl47 said:
Hello; Maybe, but I do not think so. lets say you dump many gallons of water again and the plywood gets soaked?
Click to expand...
That's what i am trying to say...Don't use plywood because it will adsorb any spilled water. Use a product to level the stand that will not adsorb water like a sheet of azek.
 
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