He will have a lot of reading to do.feverfish;577920;577920 said:
With planted tanks, canisters are the only choice IMO, as most other filters will lose WAY to much CO2. The closed system of the canister is perfect for planted tanks.
200 gallon tank.. the next step
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With planted tanks, canisters are the only choice IMO, as most other filters will lose WAY to much CO2. The closed system of the canister is perfect for planted tanks.
In terms of how much bioload it can take would be about the same as if you use all the space for biomedia. Except The refugium modification u can export nutrients. Whereas the only nutrient export you have available in a bio only is a w/c. Which will lower nitrates, but much less the a w/c with overgrowth nutrient export.
Well there is one other nutrient transport that will remove nitrates... Purigen. Amazing stuff, and it works as well as everyone says. I use it in all my breeding tanks to help with maintaining wq, but still do very regular water changes.
Well one can use "chemical" modification. But I thought most of our goals was to make it as natural as possible. I am in no way condemning the use of purigen. But some may see it as an excuse not to do a w/c. And for the kid, the reason for a reverse light cycle is to maintain a consistent ph, less fluc=less stress.
I agree, but purigen on top of regular water changes can maintain a good constant water quality. This combo works just as well as plants. If you want the lower pH flux then the way is a drip system. I wish these could be done with a canister.
If you ever try purigen, one thing to keep in mind is to not have only one packet of it in your filter. When you remove it to recharge the water params will go out the window. The purigen does choke the amount of nutrients for the BB. If in a w/d this can be placed in the last chamber before the pump chamber. THis still won't fix the problem completely. By having two seperate containers of it, when you remove one to recharge, the second can continue to work. This will help maintain good W/Q.
I have never tried it, but alot of people reccomend it for Salt Water. Myself personally though, I want to have the most natural environment I can create and somewhat refuse to use chemical alteration. Keep in mind I wasn't always like that. But when you lose $400 in fish because you listen to the lfs on what "chemicals" help the fish relax and what kills cyano, and what chemical helps the fish fight off disease, you start to avoid them. I have cured ich just with salt and temp manipulation. And I have lost fish to ich using chemical manipulation. Of course it was the cheap sh** and I was new to all of this, and did not have the net to learn from.
