300ish Gallon plywood - First attempt
- Thread starter Muni
- Start date
I'm open to suggestions. It's just that with the way I have things planned out that I described in an earlier post. It wouldn't work.
Muni;3686276; said:
I am guilty of this on this thread....absolutely loving the thread and checking daily...haven't posted til now. Great work though..can't wait to see the finished product.
Woo hoo. Up to 26 views per post. Lol. Not a huge deal.
Anyways. After setting up a makeshift paint booth since its cold in the shop. I painted the bottom of the tank with the same gray paint I used on the stand. The exterior of the tank will get the gray with black trim treatment same as the stand.
The rubberized paint will be here tomorrow supposedly and then it's test time to see how well it works.
I want to use epoxy or silicone to fill in my two blow outs and maybe do all the joints on the inside edges of the tank. I really don't want this to leak. So I'll be testing epoxy and silicone adhesion to the rubber paint and putting the rubber over a bead of silicone and epoxy to see if it comes off it easily.
Anyways. After setting up a makeshift paint booth since its cold in the shop. I painted the bottom of the tank with the same gray paint I used on the stand. The exterior of the tank will get the gray with black trim treatment same as the stand.
The rubberized paint will be here tomorrow supposedly and then it's test time to see how well it works.
I want to use epoxy or silicone to fill in my two blow outs and maybe do all the joints on the inside edges of the tank. I really don't want this to leak. So I'll be testing epoxy and silicone adhesion to the rubber paint and putting the rubber over a bead of silicone and epoxy to see if it comes off it easily.
Well, you mentioned something that got me fired up to post a reply so here it is. I too wanted a easy drain system. I designed mine a bit differently though. The system works as an overflow and a drain system.
The original drawing:
To the hose:
After Assembly
The water flows through the overflows at the bottom of the tank. There are 3 levels set by the plumbing in the rear: Full, Water Change 30%, and Drain. Drain and Water Change are controlled by valves, when closed they divert water to the full level. Simply open the valve to the level you desire and viola.. insta water change or drain. (just be sure to turn of the return pump) I have a float rigged in the sump to auto top off my water when it gets low. So, after I do a water change or drain I close the valve and turn the pump back on, the pump drains the sump reservoir down to the fill line and the float activates the water line filling the sump, when the tank and sump are both full the float turns the water off. Basically water changes for me are now a matter of turning 3 valves and turning my pump off then back on. I am on a well so I don't need treated water.
Figured I would add that to your thread to give you something to think about.
The original drawing:
To the hose:
After Assembly
The water flows through the overflows at the bottom of the tank. There are 3 levels set by the plumbing in the rear: Full, Water Change 30%, and Drain. Drain and Water Change are controlled by valves, when closed they divert water to the full level. Simply open the valve to the level you desire and viola.. insta water change or drain. (just be sure to turn of the return pump) I have a float rigged in the sump to auto top off my water when it gets low. So, after I do a water change or drain I close the valve and turn the pump back on, the pump drains the sump reservoir down to the fill line and the float activates the water line filling the sump, when the tank and sump are both full the float turns the water off. Basically water changes for me are now a matter of turning 3 valves and turning my pump off then back on. I am on a well so I don't need treated water.
Figured I would add that to your thread to give you something to think about.
Very interesting. But perhaps a bit more involved then I want to get with this. I'm shooting for cheap simple and reliable. I may use part of that idea for the 30% water change. Not sure. Gotta wait and see what I end up with.
i like both of the ideas for water changes, but I also have the question of chlorine and chloramine entering your water through the hose, how would you get rid of that? Maybe have it run the hose into an RO unit and then out into the bulkhead, back into your tank? IDK, just tossing around ideas.
"Very interesting. But perhaps a bit more involved then I want to get with this. I'm shooting for cheap simple and reliable. I may use part of that idea for the 30% water change. "
Yeah I studied Rivermuds version of how to drain Venice
when building one and came to the same conclusion.
I ended up drilling the hole at 1/3rd depth and tee joining it, one end going up to water overflow level and the other down for 1/3rd drainage.
Yeah I studied Rivermuds version of how to drain Venice
when building one and came to the same conclusion.I ended up drilling the hole at 1/3rd depth and tee joining it, one end going up to water overflow level and the other down for 1/3rd drainage.
Burko;3689246; said:"Very interesting. But perhaps a bit more involved then I want to get with this. I'm shooting for cheap simple and reliable. I may use part of that idea for the 30% water change. "
Yeah I studied Rivermuds version of how to drain Venice
I ended up drilling the hole at 1/3rd depth and tee joining it, one end going up to water overflow level and the other down for 1/3rd drainage.
Thats exactly what I was thinking. You could add the all the way drain valve. Have them all in line with T's and you would have minimal plumbing and a simple system. I'm gonna mock this up tomorrow. I like this idea.
Code:
______
| O | <---- overflow level
| |
| O | <--- Water change level
| |
|_____|Hope my little drawing works.
