Yeah I win. Your thread has been a huge source of info for my 673 gal plywood biuld. Keep up the good work!! Thanks.
300ish Gallon plywood - First attempt
- Thread starter Muni
- Start date
They make a brand of caulk that is paintable. The stuff I use is called "White Lightning", but i've never used it in aquaria. I think its latex based instead of silicone based.
I've never heard of a paint that would adhear to 100% silicone.
I've never heard of a paint that would adhear to 100% silicone.
True. I hadn't thought of that. A paintable caulk would cover the gaps and provide a smooth rounded corner for the rubber paint.
I think i have an open tube of caulk from redoing a bathroom a few days ago. Lemme go check and see if I can get my test pieces to stick together with it for another test paint tomorrow. That will also give me a chance to put the 2nd coat on the test pieces and see how thick it ends up being.
I think i have an open tube of caulk from redoing a bathroom a few days ago. Lemme go check and see if I can get my test pieces to stick together with it for another test paint tomorrow. That will also give me a chance to put the 2nd coat on the test pieces and see how thick it ends up being.
Instead of using caulking for the corners you could use automotive filler (bondo). Not only will the paint stick to it but it will also greatly increase the strength of the joints.
This is what I plan on using to coat my tank. I know that you've already picked out a different product, but it can't hurt to take a look.
http://www.plastidip.com/industrial_solutions/Plasti_Dip
http://www.plastidip.com/industrial_solutions/Plasti_Dip
toddhgr;3732441; said:
Interesting. Its 79 dollars for gallon of that from Mcmaster-carr.
I'm not dead set on using the stuff I have but it would be nice now that I've bought it. If it works it would be a great option at only 40 bucks.
Bondo could work. I have a gallon can I've never opened.
If you do decide to go with bondo the best way I've seen to smooth the corners is with a billards ball.
Muni;3732547; said:
Bondo will work but I think thickened epoxy would be a better choice. Stronger and more waterproof.
Years ago I used Vulkem polyurethane caulk to attach glass to wood and then painted over the caulk and the first inch of the glass or so and it held water.
In another recent thread here on MFK a product rep from Liquid Rubber recommended fast cure polyurethane caulk since regular polyurethane caulk (like Vulkem) takes so long to cure and adhesion is poor until fully cured.
Either way, if it were me I'd take this a step further and seal the frame with epoxy before adhereing the glass. In other words, I would NOT polyurethane the glass to bare wood. Just get a small kit of epoxy and apply a 1" to 2" strip around where the window will be attached. Then use polyurethane caulk in place of silicone and attach your glass. Then apply your rubber paint.
Muni;3731955; said:
Does the paint have a soft or hard feel to it once cured?
More importantly, when you rub your fingertip across is does it have a slick feel like a plastic cutting board or sort of a grippy feel like a tire or inner-tube?
