DIY Monster Canister Filter!

[Fish Eat Fish]

Having a hard time seeing what your setup is like but try filling the canister with water and sealing it up. Then turn the pump on, as water is pumped out, it will start a cyphon on the intake hose. When this happends, shut that pump off and if the is a place for the air to relieve its self, that canister will completly purge.

Problem here is that you need a way to purge the air. If you want, you could just throw a ball valve on the top cover, open it up and let the air get forced out. I would reccomend plumbing the ball valve to the output or run a hose to the tank so any water that passes through the ball valve doesn't soak everything around.

That was actually my exact plan. however I did not think of plumbing it to the outlet. That may even cause a venturi which would help it purge faster.

 

[ITHURTZ]

Stupid me I found the solution. Close the outputs and open the drain, instant prime! BUt one thing IT DOESNT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
The lid cant take the pressure it leaks all around the top
AH MAN THIS SUCKS BIG DONKEY MANES!

 

[zennzzo]

Stupid me I found the solution. Close the outputs and open the drain, instant prime! BUt one thing IT DOESNT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
The lid cant take the pressure it leaks all around the top
AH MAN THIS SUCKS BIG DONKEY MANES!

go for this stuff...

 

[ITHURTZ]

Ya but to have to reseal it everytime when I clean it and hope I got it all isnt worth the stress im hoping it dont leak. I took the canister apart, put some floss on the intake side of the pump and put it into the pool. Projects either on hold until I find something better, or just not do it.

I thought about putting the pump on the bottom though, so instead of force feeding and forcing the water out of it it would just be one suction container and the output would be at the exit bulkhead not creating any outward pressure on the canister. Who knows, maybe next week I will fiddle some more, as of right now Im done with it.

 

[Jgray152]

That was actually my exact plan. however I did not think of plumbing it to the outlet. That may even cause a venturi which would help it purge faster.

No not at all.

A venturi is caused by very high velocity at a point where an external, say air supply line, is located. This high velocity creates a low pressure zone. The way this high velocity zone is created is by reducing the size of the inner diameter, coning it down smaller to get higher velocity. Because you are increasing velocity though, you are also increase pressure behind the venturi which will slow the intput down.



Hooking it up to the output without a proper venturi adaptor will only cause the high pressure that is in the output to flow through the small tubing a and ball valve back into the canister. Now this won't be an issue as long as you set it up so its noy bypassing while flow is moving in reverse through the purge line. You could also simply shut the ball valve off and not worry about this at all.

The canister will purge its self 100% with a ball valve on the top cover once a cyphon has been started. Once the cyphon is started on the intake, you can keep the pump off.

 

[Jgray152]

Stupid me I found the solution. Close the outputs and open the drain, instant prime! BUt one thing IT DOESNT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
The lid cant take the pressure it leaks all around the top
AH MAN THIS SUCKS BIG DONKEY MANES!

I told the OP about this exact potential problem on page one.

Depending on how tight and secure your cover fits, you may want to put the pump on the output side so it creates a vacuum inside the container to help keep the lid secure. Although if this is an issue at all, I would steer away from it.

Reason I say steer away from it is because once the pump shuts off, you may or may not get a spike in positive pressure in the canister which could pop the cover or allow it to leak untill the pressure is stable.

Proper functioning canisters are not all that easy to think of in one day.

 

[ITHURTZ]

Gotta love learning the hard way! Iv got a cartridge filter housing out back for a pool filter. I may just fab that up and be happy with a garanteed no leak.

 

[Fish Eat Fish]

I told the OP about this exact potential problem on page one.



Reason I say steer away from it is because once the pump shuts off, you may or may not get a spike in positive pressure in the canister which could pop the cover or allow it to leak untill the pressure is stable.

Proper functioning canisters are not all that easy to think of in one day.

I tested my version earlier today. I ran into one small leak but other than that it worked perfectly. I didnt even use a valve to purge just waited to put the lid on until it was almost full (may add the valve later anyway). Im ready for a full scale test tomorrow and im confident that it will be very successful.

 

[Jgray152]

Good work FEF.

I don't know if this would really work but it might..... possibly not though. 50/50 chance

Go to the LFS and buy some solid airline tubing. Not the ruber/vynal tubing. Its hard plastic. Install that on the side of the canister wall and extend it from the very top to the very bottom. possibly use flexible airline tubing to go from the bottom of the hard tubing to just inside the intake grill on the sump.

In theory....which may not be factual at all according to my limited understanding of pressures and fluid dynamics, the fluid pressure down near the pump should be a lot less than the pressure up top, so possibly this airline tubing could cause air to get more easily sucked down to the pump and pushed out?

I have no idea if it will work but it seems like there is a chance.

 

[Fish Eat Fish]

Good work FEF.

I don't know if this would really work but it might..... possibly not though. 50/50 chance

Go to the LFS and buy some solid airline tubing. Not the ruber/vynal tubing. Its hard plastic. Install that on the side of the canister wall and extend it from the very top to the very bottom. possibly use flexible airline tubing to go from the bottom of the hard tubing to just inside the intake grill on the sump.

In theory....which may not be factual at all according to my limited understanding of pressures and fluid dynamics, the fluid pressure down near the pump should be a lot less than the pressure up top, so possibly this airline tubing could cause air to get more easily sucked down to the pump and pushed out?

I have no idea if it will work but it seems like there is a chance.

Thats a good idea. Im not 100% sure it would work either but I get the physics you are describing. I may have to give that a try. Or even extend the tubing through the bucket until it is under the pump. The water rushing by might cause more draw.