Im gonna try a cartridge filter from a pool. Still gotta figure out how to cut up the cartridge to keep the shape so I can put my padding on it......
DIY Monster Canister Filter!
- Thread starter Fish Eat Fish
- Start date
In my tank I have the ouput of the filter agitating the surface of the water. There is plenty of air for the bacteria to thrive. More than enough for them to do their job. The only time this would be a concern is on heavily stocked really large tanks. Otherwise, the air available to the bacteria in a canister filter is more than enough as long as you have the proper aeration in the tank.
Since when did this thread become a competition between wet/dry and canisters? It never started out that way and was not intended for it to be brought this way. Everyone knows the benefits of wet/dry. Sometimes people actually like to test theorys and use their knowledge to build something succesfully that no one else has in the past or possible make something better than the other guy. There is no problem with that. Any faults from the OPs design, my design or anyone elses design will just make someone elses design that much better.
Eventually the bucket will fracture? BS. You have evidence to back this up? Show me. point to a thread. Then compair that to the many others using the same setup... I bet you won't find to many people running a "true" DIY canister filter so you may get 1 or 2 failures out of maybe 6 people. Those two failures could be the same issue.
If people actually think when they build a DIY canister filter using a bucket, then they would know that you can add more negitive pressure then positive pressre internally to the same bucket wall. A Circle is very strong when the pressures, either internal or external, are forcing the bucket wall in on its self and not out.
Im going to throw your own words right back into your mouth.
Zennzzo said:
Welcome
I noticed he hasn't posted any more "usefull" information.. lol
just to add to the "why go with a canister".
1.They "can" be much quieter.
2. You can put the intake down lower in the water where heavier solids collect which you would never get with an overflow.
Unless you had a sump that could hold half of your tank water....
Conduit fittings just don't work as well in my experience. They've got a few shortcomings. First, they're only threaded on one side. Sure you can push tubing over the nonthreaded side, (which will create a leaky joint) but real bulkhead fittings are either threaded or slip joints on either side. So they're more secure & versatile that way. Second, the nut that comes with the conduit fittings is very weak & thin. And finally, that o-ring just won't seal as well as a real bulkhead. Period. It just ain't gonna happen. It wasn't meant for what you're suggesting it for.
As has been mentioned several times already, 5gal buckets are tough as nails. But they're still just flexible enough to conform to a 1/2" or 3/4" bulkhead flange, and the bulkhead fitting is strong enough for that kind of application. Not to mention that the flange provides enough surface area to allow silicone sealant to be effective insurance. (Even spells this out in the directions that came with my bulk heads.)
If you're really having trouble getting the bucket to flatten out enough for a bulkhead flange, try gentle use of a heat gun on the bucket.
The conduit fittings may work ok for now. Just don't get to rough with them once everything is connected up. If you go man-handling any of the tubing connected to the fitting you can break the seal of the o-ring, or break the thin nut if you used it.
As has been mentioned several times already, 5gal buckets are tough as nails. But they're still just flexible enough to conform to a 1/2" or 3/4" bulkhead flange, and the bulkhead fitting is strong enough for that kind of application. Not to mention that the flange provides enough surface area to allow silicone sealant to be effective insurance. (Even spells this out in the directions that came with my bulk heads.)
If you're really having trouble getting the bucket to flatten out enough for a bulkhead flange, try gentle use of a heat gun on the bucket.
The conduit fittings may work ok for now. Just don't get to rough with them once everything is connected up. If you go man-handling any of the tubing connected to the fitting you can break the seal of the o-ring, or break the thin nut if you used it.
Look at what I made with a conduit piece, male threaded on one side and female slip on the other. You can get slip barb fittings if you wanted to and glue them together.
http://midnightgray.net/images/filters/AquaX10/bulkhead3.jpg
We are upgrading from 200-300 GPH. 1/2" and 3/4" is not going to work. 1" builkhead would require roughly a 1.75" hole to be drilled. Not a big deal, but than you have the seal portion which would cover about a 2.5" diamter. Pretty large for the radius on a bucket.
This was an idea I had and still debating. I don't like the small nut that comes with most builkhaed fittings. Would probubly need the heavy duty ones.
Oreo;1895271; said:You should stick to the gibberish Zennzzo. It suits you better then being a smart-ass.
Exactly the point I was making...PVC Electric conduit threads are straight rather than tapered so they will not bind as you tighten them down. It is what we used as water tight conduit and fresh water lines that passed through the bulkheads in the fish holds..0-ringed, even with the constant flexing of the boat, the electrical system remained dry and fresh water was never compromised ...Jgray152;1895874; said:
Bulkhead fittings have their place...on flat wide open glass or plexi
Jgray152;1894791; said:
sure a circle is strong, but you also have to consider the material the circle is made out of... and your average 5/6 gal buckets aren't made out of the right materials, notice how store bought canisters are made out of hard plastic while the buckets are made out of a softer plastic...
Which is why I say it might work for a while but over time something will give.
Or are you trying to say have a bucket in a bigger bucket?
also when I was saying I would chose the DIY Wet/Dry over the Canister is because IMO the DIY Canister would be more prone to failure then the Wet/Dry
Really if you want to make a cool DIY canister get your hands on a beer keg or a drum, they are made to handle the pressures and will be less prone to failures....
You have to realize the amount of pressure your canister will have. You can figure this out by figuring the velocity of flow If you have a flow of 1" per second with a 12" diameter bucket, you are going to have very little pressure in the canister. BTW, im talking about negitive pressure, pump on the output side of the canister.
Some think that there is an enormous amount of pressure in a canister filter. Look at almost any filter out there, the pump is always on the output side. This is because the construction and design allows for it to handle negitive pressure better than positive pressure internally.
Its not the "bucket" that will fail. If anything does, it would be a crappy seal against the bucket either at the cover or bulkhead fitting.
Some think that there is an enormous amount of pressure in a canister filter. Look at almost any filter out there, the pump is always on the output side. This is because the construction and design allows for it to handle negitive pressure better than positive pressure internally.
Its not the "bucket" that will fail. If anything does, it would be a crappy seal against the bucket either at the cover or bulkhead fitting.
