fish death ....

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Probably not the nitrates per se, but the sudden change from cold, pristine water into tropical captive water along with other shifts in pH, hardness and things we don't even measure. Next time, try an intermediate conditioning tank where you duplicate his natural water as closely as possible, then gradually raise the temp, etc. Did you run a water test on the lake he came from? There's a lake near me that has a pH of about 4.0. I don't even bother trying to keep fish from that water anymore after failing twice. Just some ideas to ponder. Take 'em or leave 'em.
 
I have a creek in my backyard with hundreds of bluegill and sunfish. I have thought about catching one and putting it into one of my tanks.

Your experience gives me pause however. The significant change in PH, temperature, and oxygen saturation is probably more than a fish can handle; even with an extended accumulation period.

This post made me think about my experience as a kid. I had a spring fed pond. The water was absolutely pure and very cold. I use to catch fish at a nearby lake (much warmer water), put them in a bucket, and release them in the pond. Only the sunfish and carp survived long term. The bass, perch, and crappies only lasted a few days.

The ells I caught in a river also survived long term.
 
well, im giving this one more shot. i found a pond that had similar PH levels to my tank, so hopefully that wont be an issue. The bass is currently in a 50 gallon tank w/ about 10 gallons of water in it, 8 of these gallons are from the pond while the other 2 are from teh tank. i plan to slowllyyy add more tank water in an attempt to make this transition as easy as possible. wish me luck, as this is my last attempt at this.
 
vfc;4033956; said:
I have a creek in my backyard with hundreds of bluegill and sunfish. I have thought about catching one and putting it into one of my tanks.

Your experience gives me pause however. The significant change in PH, temperature, and oxygen saturation is probably more than a fish can handle; even with an extended accumulation period.
I've caught and kept two Bluegill successfully. It depends on a lot of factors whether or not they survive. One went belly up shortly after adding to the tank and I cant remember the exact circumstances but I think I had just added some new water but not the dechlor. Shortly after adding the dechlor he was fine.
 
good news, after about a 2 hour acclimation period the fish is in the tank. he is alive, but is a bit lethargic. he has been in the tank for about 5 hours without perishing. how long until im in the clear?
 
consistent 75-80 deg temp for a LMB will kill it... your O2 levels are gonna be less 'n ideal, the fish's metab will go threw the roof, and stay there, maintaining the WQ will be a pain.. I've never heated a native tank.. and deffinately wouldn't advise anyone to do it. It's like playing russian roulette with the fish's life. and as already suggested.. you'll need a big tank to maintain an adult LMB... whatever you do.. don't release it if it gets to big for your tank and you don't want to upgrade. the best LMB set-ups I've seen consisted of a planted tank in the 220+ range, excellent filtration, and dedicated care-takers. I'm certaintly not saying don't do it.. but you're looking at similar requirements to PBass. imo LMB get prettier 'n most PBass i've seen.
 
MonsterMinis;4046897; said:
consistent 75-80 deg temp for a LMB will kill it... your O2 levels are gonna be less 'n ideal, the fish's metab will go threw the roof, and stay there, maintaining the WQ will be a pain.. I've never heated a native tank.. and deffinately wouldn't advise anyone to do it. It's like playing russian roulette with the fish's life. and as already suggested.. you'll need a big tank to maintain an adult LMB... whatever you do.. don't release it if it gets to big for your tank and you don't want to upgrade. the best LMB set-ups I've seen consisted of a planted tank in the 220+ range, excellent filtration, and dedicated care-takers. I'm certaintly not saying don't do it.. but you're looking at similar requirements to PBass. imo LMB get prettier 'n most PBass i've seen.

granted im no expert, but LMBs endure temps well into the 80s in the wild? i dont see how this could be too detrimental to the fish's well being. what would the optimal temp be?
 
They can tolerate it.. but it's not ideal, particulalry in the home Aquarium. the warmer water is the less capable it is of holding O2... granted I'm no expert either but I have kept them before as fry - 10" before re-homing them. I'de swing for a 60-70 frame. If your home is AC/heat. I'de turn the heater off and leave it to swing w/ your house temp. Live plants will also help your O2 levels in the tank. also by lowering the temp your cutting the metabolism of the fish, and they are voracious eaters to begin with. It will still grow like a weed, but it won't look emmaciated more often then not. unless you plan on feeding 5+ times a day. room temp, 6" range, 2-3 feedings a day should keep it healthy, and happy. they are fairly easy ime to get to eat Cichlid pellets. once he/she is settled in open the tank top... stand away a few feet.. and toss the pellets into the tank.. funny as this sounds.. it will often trigger their natural strike response and get them eating fairly quickly. I'de offer it some clean minnows/live worms the first few weeks so it'll settle in better, before trying this. and also hit him with a de-wormer, such as prazipro once you get it settled in and off live or takeing mostly pellets. Starveing a stressed out fish to force it to take pellets = dead fish. For a better idea of their needs, try looking in the PBass forums, and the Native Forums. as their filter/tank/ect needs are very similar ime. also I'de advise keeping the tank light off the first few days to make the transistion easier on him/her, and avoiding unneccisary traffic around the tank.
 
MonsterMinis;4046932; said:
They can tolerate it.. but it's not ideal, particulalry in the home Aquarium. the warmer water is the less capable it is of holding O2... granted I'm no expert either but I have kept them before as fry - 10" before re-homing them. I'de swing for a 60-70 frame. If your home is AC/heat. I'de turn the heater off and leave it to swing w/ your house temp. Live plants will also help your O2 levels in the tank. also by lowering the temp your cutting the metabolism of the fish, and they are voracious eaters to begin with. It will still grow like a weed, but it won't look emmaciated more often then not. unless you plan on feeding 5+ times a day. room temp, 6" range, 2-3 feedings a day should keep it healthy, and happy. they are fairly easy ime to get to eat Cichlid pellets. once he/she is settled in open the tank top... stand away a few feet.. and toss the pellets into the tank.. funny as this sounds.. it will often trigger their natural strike response and get them eating fairly quickly. I'de offer it some clean minnows/live worms the first few weeks so it'll settle in better, before trying this. and also hit him with a de-wormer, such as prazipro once you get it settled in and off live or takeing mostly pellets. Starveing a stressed out fish to force it to take pellets = dead fish. For a better idea of their needs, try looking in the PBass forums, and the Native Forums. as their filter/tank/ect needs are very similar ime. also I'de advise keeping the tank light off the first few days to make the transistion easier on him/her, and avoiding unneccisary traffic around the tank.

thanks for all this advice, i really appreciate this help. at the current moment i have him in a 75 gallon setup w two filters running, fluval 305 and a top fin 30 hob. thankfully he is still small, about ten inch range, so 75 gallon with the current filtration systems will do for the time being. im keeping my fingers crossed and hoping this works out this time.
 
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