leo price

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Gshock;3842091; said:
Unless you've got alike a concrete pond the size of your house with like 30 aros in it, I don't see how this is going to work anytime soon. Even the public aquarium in UK went through 17 years before 4 fry were actually produced.

all it takes is 2 inorder to spawn...yes 30 would increase the chances, but it is pissible with only 2 aros...if it takes a while thats fine...like i said i will try, but if they don't i haven't lost anything cause i still have the aro comm. in the end...
 
vamptrev;3837688; said:
leos grow very fast. i have leos just over 1 yr old and they are about 15" accross

leos wouldnt last 6 months in a 180 IMO. but also depends on how clean u keep the water and how much u feed.


i agree, it can be done but for a very limited time.







DB junkie;3838003; said:
180 gallon is a waste of time when you're talking 10" rays. You have to understand water chemistry in regards to rays before you're going to understand tank size. A 180 with 2 10 inch rays being properly fed with adequate filtration is still going to require daily WCs to keep Nitrates in check. Now use that 180 with a 180 gallon sump and maybe you can get by doing WCs every other day......

It's up to you. You can keep rays, or you can keep them properly. I gaurentee you 5 years into keeping them you will wish you kept them properly the entire time.

Even in a 300 gallon growout housing 4 Marbles that are 7-9 inches and overkill filtration I still change half the water 3-4 times a week.

Take it from someone that has rays and a rental house..... IT SUCKS. Would be so much easier to have rays in a house that you own and can modify accordingly. In my opinonn it's silly to have rays without running drip systems. It's a pain to run drips without modifying the house.[/QUOTE]








Not sure about that. i have a 210 with 3 10" rays with lots of other large fish, and my water is always in great shape. I do 1 waterchange a week (about 80%) my nitrites are around 80 and then after change get down to around 10ppm. My motoros have bred in this tank also.

which i agree this tank is a waste of time because it will not last but maybe 6 months.

I do not think a drip system is a must for rays, it make it easier but i have no problems with large rays in smaller tanks managing the nitrates with a old school python.
 
I find it strange that Nitrate is so difficult for some to control and so easy for others.
I must be doing something wrong. When I had 3 rays in a 180 for a while all 3 were 10-11 inch and Nitrate was VERY difficult to keep down even with several WCs a week. My 300 has 4 rays all less then 10 inches and even with up to 3 50-65% WCs a week the Nitrates are still high. I'd listen to Keepin. He's obviously doing something right if his parameters are what he says and his rays are breeding.
 
DB junkie;3846020; said:
I find it strange that Nitrate is so difficult for some to control and so easy for others.
I must be doing something wrong. When I had 3 rays in a 180 for a while all 3 were 10-11 inch and Nitrate was VERY difficult to keep down even with several WCs a week. My 300 has 4 rays all less then 10 inches and even with up to 3 50-65% WCs a week the Nitrates are still high. I'd listen to Keepin. He's obviously doing something right if his parameters are what he says and his rays are breeding.

that is what i find hard to believe that you are fighting nitrates as much as you are. When you say your nitrates are high...how high are you saying DB? Maybe it is different water? I have well water?? I have tested out of the tap and nitrate is 0, is yours?
Another thing that may be the difference is i feed my rays once a day, they eat 2 handfuls of pellets and i also throw in 1 handful of smelt a day. this is to feed 1 19" tig, 2 14" gar, 1 15" blk aro, 1-10" cichla, and 3 10"+ rays...every other day i feed shrimp and it is mostly for the fire eel. I also skip atleast 1 day a week if not 2, with no feedings.

however, if i had the balls to modify my house for a drip system i would, i like to have it easy...
 
i feed everyone twice per day, every day. i drip about 50% of the water volume every day to keep nitrates in check.
 
between 20 and 30 ppm. if i feed everyone earthworms one day... i do an extra 20% waterchange manually lol
 
keepinfish;3846059; said:
that is what i find hard to believe that you are fighting nitrates as much as you are. When you say your nitrates are high...how high are you saying DB? Maybe it is different water? I have well water?? I have tested out of the tap and nitrate is 0, is yours?
Another thing that may be the difference is i feed my rays once a day, they eat 2 handfuls of pellets and i also throw in 1 handful of smelt a day. this is to feed 1 19" tig, 2 14" gar, 1 15" blk aro, 1-10" cichla, and 3 10"+ rays...every other day i feed shrimp and it is mostly for the fire eel. I also skip atleast 1 day a week if not 2, with no feedings.

however, if i had the balls to modify my house for a drip system i would, i like to have it easy...

High= Well over 100. Seen it towards the top of the chart. I have very hard, high ph city water. It is Nitrate free.

My tank is fed once a day, and skip a day once a week.

Stocklist-
4 Marbles under 10 inches
1 Silver Aro @ 1'
4 Armatus @ 7-10 inch
5 Odoe @ 5-8 inch
2 Cynos @ 8 inch
1 BGK @ 8 inch
3 Rapheal cats @ 5-6 inch

Definetly wouldn't consider it overstocked or even stocked to MFK standards. Tank is driven by the big coral life luft pump so it has plenty of air going to it. Return pump is a Dolphin 4700. Prolly 40-50 gallons of pot scrubbies, sumps probobly 60 gallons, and 4 filter socks.

It's not just this tank either. I was doing daily 300 gallon WCs on my pond and couldn't keep Nitrate low. Even the 150 gallon I keep a single 5 inch pup in gets 2 WCs a week. :nilly:

I'm open to plausible explanations............ :confused: I'll be more then happy to try to confirm or deny them.

Once you start using a drip system and start getting a handle on Nitrate it becomes very obvious, very quickly, exactly how much water is required to truly keep them in check. Until you have a drip working properly the #s can be hard to understand or comprehend but they don't lie..... I have a drip on my pond and tanks that don't have the drip so I've got a pretty good idea on how my Nitrate levels work. Pretty intresting stuff.

And as far as a drip being hard to do, it's no different then a washing machine. Maybe if I get bored enough I'll do one on my 300. The trick will be getting it done w/out the landlords knowing lol.
 
check your tap for nitrates again, that seems ridiculous to me
 
coeus;3846356; said:
check your tap for nitrates again, that seems ridiculous to me

Please explain...... What's rediculous? My #s or the #s involved in keeping Nitrates in check when dealing with rays? Even IF there was Nitrate in the tap water you're only going to see what? 10PPM?

IF I'm crazy you can likely color Trev crazy too, as I think we're on the same page. ;)
 
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