Lets talk sumps!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
This is what I have finally decided on. I am going with the filter socks because they seem pretty simple and fool proof. I have added a 6" bay after the filter socks to allow a space for various medias, carbon, heaters, you name it. After that the water will rise and then fall throught the drip plate onto the bed of scrubbies. I am going to use a Quiet One 9000 pump but I do have concerns about the two 1.5" overflows keeping up with the pump. I am going to branch off the input to the pump with PVC to draw from under each side of the sump. Construction starts Saturday or Sunday. Whichever day I elect not to go to work.

Final Sump Top.jpg

Final SumpFront.jpg
 
IMO, just to be safe, I would put a ball valve on each overflow & on the pump return so I could adjust each input & output independently. I think I would also put an adjustable powerhead in each of those 6" open bays (great idea BTW) to drive PVC spray bars over each drip plate. It may be overkill, but I like overkill.
 
I think you will be ok with the the dual 1.5" overflows. They should be able to handle 1350 gph each so 2700 together and your quiteone, according to the chart I found, pumps at 2328 or so at 0 feet of head. So since you will have more head height than zero I would wager that should be enough cushion should you not run at peak flow though either pipe. Also as a just in case you can put a "T" someplace on your pump outlet and then a ball valve and after the ball valve a pipe directing back into the sump. Then if you want 100% flow to the main tank you keep the valve closed. If you want to dial it down you just open the valve slightly to you get the flow you want. This works better than just putting the valve on the pump output because its less stress on the pump. I've seen this used or suggested someplace I think by nolapete (he's one of them smarty pants who gets good ideas all the time.)
 
Sirspifalot;3859677; said:
I think you will be ok with the the dual 1.5" overflows. They should be able to handle 1350 gph each so 2700 together and your quiteone, according to the chart I found, pumps at 2328 or so at 0 feet of head. So since you will have more head height than zero I would wager that should be enough cushion should you not run at peak flow though either pipe. Also as a just in case you can put a "T" someplace on your pump outlet and then a ball valve and after the ball valve a pipe directing back into the sump. Then if you want 100% flow to the main tank you keep the valve closed. If you want to dial it down you just open the valve slightly to you get the flow you want. This works better than just putting the valve on the pump output because its less stress on the pump. I've seen this used or suggested someplace I think by nolapete (he's one of them smarty pants who gets good ideas all the time.)
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Those number are sililar to the ones I came up with but I also came across numbers that were a little lower and were cutting it close. I will put a "T" and a ballvalve on the return line and have a branch come off back into the sump just in case I need to adjust flow.
 
JakeH;3859252; said:
IMO, just to be safe, I would put a ball valve on each overflow & on the pump return so I could adjust each input & output independently. I think I would also put an adjustable powerhead in each of those 6" open bays (great idea BTW) to drive PVC spray bars over each drip plate. It may be overkill, but I like overkill.
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I dont think I am going to have a spray bar over the drip plate anylonger. I am going to let the water rise and just run over the drip plate and fall through the scrubbies.

I also got off work a little early today so I am headed out to the shop to start on the sump. Good thing I have an 80,000 BTU heater out there!
 
BadOleRoss;3859883; said:
I dont think I am going to have a spray bar over the drip plate anylonger. I am going to let the water rise and just run over the drip plate and fall through the scrubbies.

I also got off work a little early today so I am headed out to the shop to start on the sump. Good thing I have an 80,000 BTU heater out there!
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you may have to consider that powerhead. My sump is a similar design and over a 31" span over my bio media water barely flows to the end. And when i put the poly fil on top of the drip plate for extra mechanical filtration the water only traveled half way. Im in the process of adding a small powerhead and making up a spray bar to distribute the water better.
 
kingyella;3865881; said:
you may have to consider that powerhead. My sump is a similar design and over a 31" span over my bio media water barely flows to the end. And when i put the poly fil on top of the drip plate for extra mechanical filtration the water only traveled half way. Im in the process of adding a small powerhead and making up a spray bar to distribute the water better.
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I am trying to plug as few things in as possible. I thnk the key in the drip plate is going to be having the right amount of holes and the right size holes. I might even put the drip plate at a slight angle to move the water along. The drip plate continues to be a pain in the tail. The plastic pegboard is nowhere to be found in Lowe's land so I am stil looking at different solutions. I have started the build thread...you'll find it here:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305927
 
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