My aquarium set ups /RMAFSw/TDS

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
dawnmarie;4343831; said:
OK,There's the meat.

Using the theoretical MSRP of $400.00 for a "unit", would a consumer use the same size/price unit for a 50 gallon tank as they would use on a 500 gallon tank ?
Yes I believe they would do to the universal aspect of the system.
 
OK...
My tap is 8.0-8.2Ph
my TDS is 221 ppm.
My city water provider doses with chlorine.
I already have a 100gpd, 5 stage RO unit, brand new, waiting to be used.

I want to have a steady 40 gallons per day of 6.8-7.0Ph at 50 TDS...
to supply my 225g CA cichlid tank...

When can I review your device, if it can fulfill my requirements?
 
zennzzo;4347335; said:
OK...
My tap is 8.0-8.2Ph
my TDS is 221 ppm.
My city water provider doses with chlorine.
I already have a 100gpd, 5 stage RO unit, brand new, waiting to be used.

I want to have a steady 40 gallons per day of 6.8-7.0Ph at 50 TDS...
to supply my 225g CA cichlid tank...

When can I review your device, if it can fulfill my requirements?
40 gallon a day in a 225 gal. aquarium is a lot of water will destroy the beneficial bacteria within the aquarium from over changing the water. I have used many water units and the 5 stage RO unit 100 per day I use for drinking water and my ice maker all I can get from this unit is 15 gallon perday and I had to put it on a 20 gallon holding tank to do that that was new from the box.
I am going to make a video on the system how it works. Water inchange rate on South American Cyclids (discus) should not exceed 10% of mass here a 225 @ 10%= 22.5g per day limit. I run my aquarium at 5% with South American Cyclids and they do very well and establishment of the aquarium remains fully intact. Over 10% will destroy the estabishment of aquarium.
 
sassyfishwater;4354232;4354232 said:
40 gallon a day in a 225 gal. aquarium is a lot of water will destroy the beneficial bacteria within the aquarium from over changing the water. ... Over 10% will destroy the estabishment of aquarium.
What ?

Using Zennzzo's numbers ,40 gallons daily in a 225 gallon tank, he is replacing the volume of water in his tank every 6 days (5.625) or 18% daily. Even these numbers are artificially high due to the continuous mixing action of new and existing water.

I do a conventional 40 to 50% W/C every week in my heavily stocked 240 (100-120 gallons).
Is it your contention that this somehow damages the bacteria colony ?
Using your theory wouldn't I have triggered a mini cycle at some point ?
If you are correct , which I seriously doubt, then I would be causing significant damage to all of my tanks.

Given that the colony size and health of the BB is determined by the ammonia load then the only way a 24/7 water change system could impact it (dechlorination is a separate subject) is by removing ammonia before it is converted. I can't speak for anyone else but I do waterchanges to reduce Nitrate not ammonia.
I have to imagine that Zennzzo has determined his rate of exchange by the level of Nitrate he feels is acceptable.

I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm just trying to understand. :popcorn:
 
dawnmarie;4357412; said:
What ?

Using Zennzzo's numbers ,40 gallons daily in a 225 gallon tank, he is replacing the volume of water in his tank every 6 days (5.625) or 18% daily. Even these numbers are artificially high due to the continuous mixing action of new and existing water.

I do a conventional 40 to 50% W/C every week in my heavily stocked 240 (100-120 gallons).
Is it your contention that this somehow damages the bacteria colony ?
Using your theory wouldn't I have triggered a mini cycle at some point ?
If you are correct , which I seriously doubt, then I would be causing significant damage to all of my tanks.

Given that the colony size and health of the BB is determined by the ammonia load then the only way a 24/7 water change system could impact it (dechlorination is a separate subject) is by removing ammonia before it is converted. I can't speak for anyone else but I do waterchanges to reduce Nitrate not ammonia.
I have to imagine that Zennzzo has determined his rate of exchange by the level of Nitrate he feels is acceptable.

I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm just trying to understand. :popcorn:
1st I need to ask, is there a water holding tank with these setups? I do not use a holding tank on no aquarium all there is is just the aquarium no holding tank. 40g per day = 240g every 6 days he did state daily in a 225g tank. All aquariums go thru a Nitrogen Cycle, the nitrogen cycle converts organic wasts ( ammonia and other nitrogen compounds ) into beneficial plant fertilizer (nitrate) the process of an aquarium is Nitrification, refers to the degradation of harmful nitrogen compounds by nitrifying bacteria. When inorganic ammonia is present, (NH3) is present bacteria (nitrosomonas sp.) convert the ammonia to nitrite (NO-2) other bacteria (nitrobacter sp.) consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate (NO-3) a relatively harmless compound that is the highest oxidized form of the nitogen. As a result, harmful wastes are converted into nitrates that benefit plants.
The Nitrogen Cycle. Wastes produced in the aquarium consist primarily of ammonia and other organic compounds. The organics break down into ammonia, which is reduced by nitrifying bacteria into nitrite. Some nitogen blows out of solution as a gas, but most is further reduced by bacteria to nitrate. Some of the nitrate is consumed by plants as food, but most accumulates in the aquarium and must be deluted by regular partial water changes. Nitrifying bacteria grow on all surfaces in the aquarium. These bacteria must adhere to some surface in order to do there job. They also require oxygen in order to convert ammonia and nitrite. In fact the more oxygen available to these bacteria, the faster they preform.
These bactreria is what one can destroy and leave none to very little bacteria within the aquarium by over changing the water.
 
dawnmarie;4357412; said:
What ?

Using Zennzzo's numbers ,40 gallons daily in a 225 gallon tank, he is replacing the volume of water in his tank every 6 days (5.625) or 18% daily. Even these numbers are artificially high due to the continuous mixing action of new and existing water.

I do a conventional 40 to 50% W/C every week in my heavily stocked 240 (100-120 gallons).
Is it your contention that this somehow damages the bacteria colony ?
Using your theory wouldn't I have triggered a mini cycle at some point ?
If you are correct , which I seriously doubt, then I would be causing significant damage to all of my tanks.

Given that the colony size and health of the BB is determined by the ammonia load then the only way a 24/7 water change system could impact it (dechlorination is a separate subject) is by removing ammonia before it is converted. I can't speak for anyone else but I do waterchanges to reduce Nitrate not ammonia.
I have to imagine that Zennzzo has determined his rate of exchange by the level of Nitrate he feels is acceptable.

I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm just trying to understand. :popcorn:
You need Ammonia to convert to nitrite to nitrate thats the cycle. Ammonia is poduced from fish wast and uneaten fish food. Benifical bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite then nitrate. A nitrate level maintained at or below 10 ppm is where one wants to maintain there aquarium. It is this process that I came to protect and maintain within the aquarium and stoping the toxins from rising and maintained at a constant value. When I say I have a Ammonia level at 0 does not mean I do not have it that it is converted quickly and does not read on a test, because of the fully functioning benifical bacteria. So my toxin levels remain at where they are 24/7, 365 days a year without the work involved. My water interchange rate comes from that and keeps the bacteria at a fully functioning process. As well I control the pH and water hardness to better suit the fish the only work I do on my aquarium is change the biological filter as needed, The RMAFS controls the aquarium, pH, water hardness and keeps the aquarium water clean and clear with that control my toxins pH, water hardness remain stable without rising 24/7, 365 days a year.
 
sassyfishwater;4359269; said:
1st I need to ask, is there a water holding tank with these setups? I do not use a holding tank on no aquarium all there is is just the aquarium no holding tank. 40g per day = 240g every 6 days he did state daily in a 225g tank. All aquariums go thru a Nitrogen Cycle, the nitrogen cycle converts organic wasts ( ammonia and other nitrogen compounds ) into beneficial plant fertilizer (nitrate) the process of an aquarium is Nitrification, refers to the degradation of harmful nitrogen compounds by nitrifying bacteria. When inorganic ammonia is present, (NH3) is present bacteria (nitrosomonas sp.) convert the ammonia to nitrite (NO-2) other bacteria (nitrobacter sp.) consume the nitrite and convert it to nitrate (NO-3) a relatively harmless compound that is the highest oxidized form of the nitogen. As a result, harmful wastes are converted into nitrates that benefit plants.
The Nitrogen Cycle. Wastes produced in the aquarium consist primarily of ammonia and other organic compounds. The organics break down into ammonia, which is reduced by nitrifying bacteria into nitrite. Some nitogen blows out of solution as a gas, but most is further reduced by bacteria to nitrate. Some of the nitrate is consumed by plants as food, but most accumulates in the aquarium and must be deluted by regular partial water changes. Nitrifying bacteria grow on all surfaces in the aquarium. These bacteria must adhere to some surface in order to do there job. They also require oxygen in order to convert ammonia and nitrite. In fact the more oxygen available to these bacteria, the faster they preform.
These bactreria is what one can destroy and leave none to very little bacteria within the aquarium by over changing the water.
You'er joking right?
an inaccurate explanation of the nitrogen cycle ? Really?

couple of quick questions...what's the difference in aerobic and anaerobic bacteria as it applies to the nitrogen cycle?

Why is surface area for the colonization and proliferation, of benificial bacteria so important when selecting Bio-media like SCRUBBIES?


Did you know that 500 gallons per week, that is dripped at a rate of 2.976 gallons per hour into a 225g tank, NEVER will reach 100% water change, ever...

The ongoing nitrogen cycle in our biologically filtered aquariums actually have colonies upon colonies of Beneficial bacteria being produced and dying off at all times, it's what keeps the bacteria healthy.

The easiest way to remove NitrAtes from the tank is by doing water changes. It has been proven time and time again that large regular waterchanges using dechlorinated water will not effect the nitrogen cycle...
just ask any serious Discus keeper.

The real problem with doing rather large waterchanges is the swing of Ph.

I would have to say, water changes that are on an erratic schedule is what causes the Ph shock, that is detrimental to the fish.

Free swimming water-borne beneficial bacteria count is nothing like the bacteria count on the surface area of your Bio-media.

If the above statments are true, how can you flip the PH from high to low and back to high again, without adding anything to the water? and why would you want to?

RO water mixed with dechlorinater tap water can easily change the TDS of the water, but it won't be Ph stable until there are enough bufffers to hold the hardness...

This fishkeepers saving grace is the fact my fish have been acclimated to the tap Ph. Should I ever experience a total meltdown of my filtration system, for what ever reason, like multi-day power outtages, I can put some Prime in the tank and turn on the hose and my fish and fry will be fine. Then upon the restoration of power, I can then clean out the Media and use a bottle of SeaChem's STABILITY and in 1 weeks time can be right back on top...

:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
 
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