My aquarium set ups /RMAFSw/TDS

[Clay]

There is blood in the water, and Zennzzo & Dawnmarie are circling...

 

[zennzzo]

Nah...
More like I got my face all jammed up into a floating cage
and
inquiring minds, all, wanna know...

So far
"no sale"
...got my atention though.
Just bust out already,
If it's ligit, it's ligit...
you'll have your claim to fame and money...
but if it's something we already have
and there's holes in the bucket, I don't want to waste anymore time on it, that's all

 

[sassyfishwater]

You'er joking right?
an inaccurate explanation of the nitrogen cycle ? Really?

couple of quick questions...what's the difference in aerobic and anaerobic bacteria as it applies to the nitrogen cycle?

Why is surface area for the colonization and proliferation, of benificial bacteria so important when selecting Bio-media like SCRUBBIES?


Did you know that 500 gallons per week, that is dripped at a rate of 2.976 gallons per hour into a 225g tank, NEVER will reach 100% water change, ever...

The ongoing nitrogen cycle in our biologically filtered aquariums actually have colonies upon colonies of Beneficial bacteria being produced and dying off at all times, it's what keeps the bacteria healthy.

The easiest way to remove NitrAtes from the tank is by doing water changes. It has been proven time and time again that large regular waterchanges using dechlorinated water will not effect the nitrogen cycle...
just ask any serious Discus keeper.

The real problem with doing rather large waterchanges is the swing of Ph.

I would have to say, water changes that are on an erratic schedule is what causes the Ph shock, that is detrimental to the fish.

Free swimming water-borne beneficial bacteria count is nothing like the bacteria count on the surface area of your Bio-media.

If the above statments are true, how can you flip the PH from high to low and back to high again, without adding anything to the water? and why would you want to?

RO water mixed with dechlorinater tap water can easily change the TDS of the water, but it won't be Ph stable until there are enough bufffers to hold the hardness...

This fishkeepers saving grace is the fact my fish have been acclimated to the tap Ph. Should I ever experience a total meltdown of my filtration system, for what ever reason, like multi-day power outtages, I can put some Prime in the tank and turn on the hose and my fish and fry will be fine. Then upon the restoration of power, I can then clean out the Media and use a bottle of SeaChem's STABILITY and in 1 weeks time can be right back on top...

That Nitrogen Cycle is a well documented fact on how it occures.
I,ve keeped discus for years and have ran many tests on them.
AEROBIC- Living active occuring only in the presence of oxygen (~respiration)
ANAEROBIC- Occuring in the absence of free oxygen (~respiration) Induced by anaetobes - anaerobically
Here you fail to read what I wrote and read into.
The RMAFS controls the water of an aquarium so one does not have to change the water or add chemicals to. Controls the pH and water hardness to maintain aquatic life that is being housed, so if you wish to keep discus all you have to do is set the system and lower the pH and water hardness of the aquarium to maintain the fish with out a stress level. The system gives the option to control the water without buying, storing or treating water to be used in the aquarium. The system keeps the water changes at it's set level to maintain and stablize pH and water hardness, pH will not raise or lower. If you set the RMAFS to a pH 6.8 and a TDS of 50 to 75 ppm the sytem will maintain that setting within the aquarium. Or if you set the system to a pH of 7.5 and a TDS of 150 the system will maintain the aquarium at that setting. Not everyone houses the same species of fish different fish require different water peramitors, this one sytem gives that option and sit back and not worry if it's time to change the water even if a person just wants to maintain what they have the system will do it without the work of caring for the aquarium. 5 minites of time to set and maintain the system is a lot better than 1 or 2 hours to change the water.

 

[zennzzo]

That Nitrogen Cycle is a well documented fact on how it occures.
I,ve keeped discus for years and have ran many tests on them.
AEROBIC- Living active occuring only in the presence of oxygen (~respiration)
ANAEROBIC- Occuring in the absence of free oxygen (~respiration) Induced by anaetobes - anaerobically
Here you fail to read what I wrote and read into.
The RMAFS controls the water of an aquarium so one does not have to change the water or add chemicals to. Controls the pH and water hardness to maintain aquatic life that is being housed, so if you wish to keep discus all you have to do is set the system and lower the pH and water hardness of the aquarium to maintain the fish with out a stress level. The system gives the option to control the water without buying, storing or treating water to be used in the aquarium. The system keeps the water changes at it's set level to maintain and stablize pH and water hardness, pH will not raise or lower. If you set the RMAFS to a pH 6.8 and a TDS of 50 to 75 ppm the sytem will maintain that setting within the aquarium. Or if you set the system to a pH of 7.5 and a TDS of 150 the system will maintain the aquarium at that setting. Not everyone houses the same species of fish different fish require different water peramitors, this one sytem gives that option and sit back and not worry if it's time to change the water even if a person just wants to maintain what they have the system will do it without the work of caring for the aquarium. 5 minites of time to set and maintain the system is a lot better than 1 or 2 hours to change the water.

really?...I mean, really sassy?
1-2 hours a week is really an underestimation in water/change time.
During that time of interaction, I get to observe my Fish. Check the tank and all mechanical parts for soundness. Perform the very basic maintenance like gravel vacuuming, and wiping down the tank and stand, do a waterchange or inspect the drip w/c system...

I think any less time than that, for a week, should warrant shutting it down altogether... Why keep animals if you are trying to spend 5 minutes or less, per week with it?

you'd think a place called MonsterFishKeepers
would have people that wanna spend more
than 5 minutes a week for maintenance etc...?

 

[Clay]

I am doing testing on how different water effect tropical fish.

my testing involve Ion exchange from water to fish,

Osmoregulation, water passing thru into the fish and how water effect the process,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osmoregulation

Metabolic Rate how water effect the metabolic rate,

Not sure how you're testing metabolic rate.

how water effects the blood calcium level of fish.

Just curious how you are testing any of these parameters, but REALLY interested in "blood calcium level"

 

[sassyfishwater]

really?...I mean, really sassy?
1-2 hours a week is really an underestimation in water/change time.
During that time of interaction, I get to observe my Fish. Check the tank and all mechanical parts for soundness. Perform the very basic maintenance like gravel vacuuming, and wiping down the tank and stand, do a waterchange or inspect the drip w/c system...

I think any less time than that, for a week, should warrant shutting it down altogether... Why keep animals if you are trying to spend 5 minutes or less, per week with it?

you'd think a place called MonsterFishKeepers
would have people that wanna spend more
than 5 minutes a week for maintenance etc...?

What I think is that it"s up to the person to do what that person wants to do. I would rather spend my time with the family at a ball game or in the yard or take a nice vacation and not worry about having to hury home to change aquarium water before I loose expensive fish. I maintain many aquariums and the last thing I want to do is come home from work, an work on aquariums. and spend the weekend with the family and still know my fish are OK. Family and neighbors come over and admire the aquariums and Koi pond thats a great feeling. I do a lot of research & development on aquarium water and aquatics and I put these fish to the test for answers. I am not trying to push this system on no one just that option is there I know that a system like this is hard to swallow it was for me and I created it and was amazed that it really did work. So I patented the system which cost many thousands of dollors. Do you really think that I am going to spend Many thousands of dollors for something that did not work.

 

[dawnmarie]

Assuming this is true :

Do you really think that I am going to spend Many thousands of dollors for something that did not work.

It would be the only reason I for one don't write you off as a B.S. artist.

The problem I have and have had through the course of this discussion is your approach. You are rightfully secretive about the innerworkings of you invention, but, woefully inadequate in your ability to answer the most basic of questions effectively. You have been presented with more than one setup and list of required water parameters and choose to answer with an "aquariums for dummies" incomplete description of the nitrification cycle. I begin to wonder if English is your primary language. If it is not that would explain alot. Contrary to the belief of "some"(not all) of the younger partcipants on this forum who think you can comunicate in 140 characters or less I would suggest that spelling, sentence structure and syntax are all relatively important tools in explaining your invention.

I'm not saying your invention is of no value. I am saying that so far your sales pitch needs improvement.

Note to Clay: I'm not circling looking for blood. I am circling looking for consistency, logic and ultimately truth. If Sassywater's invention can live up to it's claim I am a potential customer. BUT, I am darn sure going to do my homework and due dillegence before plunking down $400.00.

 

[zennzzo]

Assuming this is true :

It would be the only reason I for one don't write you off as a B.S. artist.

The problem I have and have had through the course of this discussion is your approach. You are rightfully secretive about the innerworkings of you invention, but, woefully inadequate in your ability to answer the most basic of questions effectively. You have been presented with more than one setup and list of required water parameters and choose to answer with an "aquariums for dummies" incomplete description of the nitrification cycle. I begin to wonder if English is your primary language. If it is not that would explain alot. Contrary to the belief of "some"(not all) of the younger partcipants on this forum who think you can comunicate in 140 characters or less I would suggest that spelling, sentence structure and syntax are all relatively important tools in explaining your invention.

I'm not saying your invention is of no value. I am saying that so far your sales pitch needs improvement.

Note to Clay: I'm not circling looking for blood. I am circling looking for consistency, logic and ultimately truth. If Sassywater's invention can live up to it's claim I am a potential customer. BUT, I am darn sure going to do my homework and due dillegence before plunking down $400.00.

well said...
And if your "machine" is in fact patented after only a few thousand in searches alone, I'd say you're well ahead of the game.

I'm assuming this is "Patent applied for" or "patent pending" and possibly still in a conceptual stage.
Without an actual working model to test and develop and evaluate, how do you even do a feasibility study?
#1 rule for patents is to get a working model up and running, with this tangible you can own the intellectual property.

Patents are intellectual property. Intellectual property consists of 4 things: Patents, Copyrights, Trademarks and Trade Secrets.

There are ways to protect your idea, and maybe being vague is one way to do that. But then why post on a public forum if you didn't want the feedback? Now I'm really confused...

 

[sassyfishwater]

Assuming this is true :

It would be the only reason I for one don't write you off as a B.S. artist.

The problem I have and have had through the course of this discussion is your approach. You are rightfully secretive about the innerworkings of you invention, but, woefully inadequate in your ability to answer the most basic of questions effectively. You have been presented with more than one setup and list of required water parameters and choose to answer with an "aquariums for dummies" incomplete description of the nitrification cycle. I begin to wonder if English is your primary language. If it is not that would explain alot. Contrary to the belief of "some"(not all) of the younger partcipants on this forum who think you can comunicate in 140 characters or less I would suggest that spelling, sentence structure and syntax are all relatively important tools in explaining your invention.

I'm not saying your invention is of no value. I am saying that so far your sales pitch needs improvement.

Note to Clay: I'm not circling looking for blood. I am circling looking for consistency, logic and ultimately truth. If Sassywater's invention can live up to it's claim I am a potential customer. BUT, I am darn sure going to do my homework and due dillegence before plunking down $400.00.

Dawnmarie, you talk to me about spelling when you your self have miss spelled word in the above statement. You ask me about how the system works. I answered that question when I said I am going to make a video on how the system works and post it, I will tell you what the system does then I will show you how it does it. You speek of Nitrification, Nitrification is the oxidation (as by bacteria) of ammonium salts to nitrites and the further oxidation of nitrites to nitrates. Nitrate is a product of the biological filtration process, and it tends to build up in aquarium water over time. This is where my system comes in keeping that build up from occuring and the only way it can build is a badly maintained Bio filter. I spoke of AMMONIUM (NH+4) here the difference between ammonium (NH+4) and ammonia (NH3) is the pH level. The toxicity of ammonia is directly related to the pH levels of the water. At a pH levels below neutral (7), ammonia occurs in a relatively harmless form (NH+4) called ammonium. At a pH above 7, however, ammonia (NH3) is highly toxic. Here we are looking at some of the logic behind the building and creating of the system. My system does not whip out that process it maintains it at a low state at all times so it does not start to effect the fish. My syatem controls pH and water hardness. I will show this in the video the reason for this is words can lie, the video will not .

 

[dawnmarie]

You right. I not perfect. Two M in communicate.
From time to time I too have misspelled (miss spelled) words.
I actually did not speak (speek) of the nitrification cycle other than to say it did not directly answer the question(s) presented.
I would hope it does'nt wipe (whip ?) out the process.
I look forward to the video of your system (syatem) in action, however, in this age of data manipulation video just like words can indeed lie.

Nitrate is a product of the biological filtration process, and it tends to build up in aquarium water over time. This is where my system comes in keeping that build up from occuring and the only way it can build is a badly maintained Bio filter.

Am I reading this right ? The only way Nitrate can accumulate in an aquarium is because the Bio filter is not correctly maintained ? This I gotta see.

Perhaps you should consider presenting it for review to an independant unbiased observer for trial. I'm sure there are many qualified persons on this forum, but, might I suggest Bob Fenner over at Wet Web Media as one option.