Overflow doesn't have the holes for return nozzles (Help)

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Cichla, you can do something similar to the video. I just skimmed the video, but it appeared the returns were low in the tank, not a safe practice even if you use check valves. Should something fail you would drain your entire tank. So a couple options for you.

1. Is this circled spot-
FB_IMG_1426136932251.jpg

A hole into the tank? If so you could run a return along the top, then down into the hole for the return. It shouldn't be in the way of the lids then. Perhaps a bit unsightly, but painted black it shouldn't be too bad.

2. Option number two, drill a hole in the back of that bad boy here-
20150313_003604.jpg

You could also do another on the other side if you wanted to split returns. It would probably give you the neatest look. This is probably the route I would go. Drilling acrylic is easy. You just need a wood circular saw, go slow and keep it cool.

Mudbutt, as always, that is one impressive setup. Your plumbing looks really good and clean. I also like how you managed to work a bean into the stock overflow.

20150313_003604.jpg

FB_IMG_1426136932251.jpg
 
Thanks guys.

I agree with fishguy, drilling acrylic is super easy. I found that a fine tooth hole saw works better than a coarse one, and putting a block of wood underneath the back side of the acrylic supported firmly by your hand while drilling helps reduce any cracks or chips on the "exit wound".

If you're too nervous about drilling into the tank you can notch out one of the lids to accommodate your return. Get a hole saw, drill a hole as close to the edge of the lid as possible, then cut the tiny strip that remains, you'll have a nice clean "U" shape.

(Edit- it's a shame I never used that 2nd return on the back. I tried to push 1,746gph [ at 0 ft head ] through the single overflow tower. Results were interesting to say the least, but hey, it never spilled over! )

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Cichla, you can do something similar to the video. I just skimmed the video, but it appeared the returns were low in the tank, not a safe practice even if you use check valves. Should something fail you would drain your entire tank. So a couple options for you.

1. Is this circled spot-
View attachment 1064080

A hole into the tank? If so you could run a return along the top, then down into the hole for the return. It shouldn't be in the way of the lids then. Perhaps a bit unsightly, but painted black it shouldn't be too bad.

2. Option number two, drill a hole in the back of that bad boy here-
View attachment 1064079

You could also do another on the other side if you wanted to split returns. It would probably give you the neatest look. This is probably the route I would go. Drilling acrylic is easy. You just need a wood circular saw, go slow and keep it cool.

Mudbutt, as always, that is one impressive setup. Your plumbing looks really good and clean. I also like how you managed to work a bean into the stock overflow.


Do i use one of these bulkhead for the holes? View attachment 1064095
 
Cichla, you can do something similar to the video. I just skimmed the video, but it appeared the returns were low in the tank, not a safe practice even if you use check valves. Should something fail you would drain your entire tank. So a couple options for you.

1. Is this circled spot-
View attachment 1064080

A hole into the tank? If so you could run a return along the top, then down into the hole for the return. It shouldn't be in the way of the lids then. Perhaps a bit unsightly, but painted black it shouldn't be too bad.

2. Option number two, drill a hole in the back of that bad boy here-
View attachment 1064079

You could also do another on the other side if you wanted to split returns. It would probably give you the neatest look. This is probably the route I would go. Drilling acrylic is easy. You just need a wood circular saw, go slow and keep it cool.

Mudbutt, as always, that is one impressive setup. Your plumbing looks really good and clean. I also like how you managed to work a bean into the stock overflow.


Do i use one of these bulkhead for the holes?
IMG_6905.jpg

IMG_6905.jpg
 
You'll need three bulkheads in your overflow for the drains, then another for the return. Every hole that needs to be water tight needs a bulkhead.

I got my bulkheads threaded for my 3 holes already... so most likely I will need 2 more bulkheads for my 2 returns hole that I drill
 
Always check your bulkheads, I usually use a cheap harbor freight digital caliper.

Most aquarium bulkheads are pretty standard.

1-3/4" hole for a 1" bulkhead. 1-3/8" hole for a 3/4" bulkhead.

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I like fishguy's idea best of drilling on the side of your tank, but do one for each side of your overflow. I went ahead included some pictures for you to "get a sense" and idea of how the plumbing would run. Believe it or not I don't have one of my bean set up in the overflow and will try to get one (these were what I already had on hand). I will tell that I did not always use "best practice" (i.e. avoid 90 angles at all cost, etc.), but I was willing to compromise some performance for the clean looks...I'm shallow LOL... I got help from my bro-in-law but I learned a lot hands on. It's hard to explain everything in pictures, we can talk live if you want and I can discuss the parts that are/could be relevant to you. But this is what I did below. I'm swamped today (at work) but will leave these with you as food for thought for some ideas...or you can decide to have none of it :-)

The first 3 pictures give you an underneath view of some earlier pictures as had running the herbie/beanan set-up to the sump.
The third picture actually shows how the third dry stand-by will go directly to sump pump, which I purposely did to cause bubbles in the return (I tested this).
The forth picture just gives you an idea of what the returns would look like with locline (especially if you decide to go with drilling the side of your tank - fishguy's idea).
The last picture are the actual hole sizes for your bulkhead, in case you are looking to drill the holes

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dans tank ver 3.jpg
 
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