Tapwater here are not recommended, sadly. So it's good to hear that yours are as good as those scientists's.
Polyuranadon Thread
- Thread starter ShadowStryder
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Tapwater here are not recommended, sadly. So it's good to hear that yours are as good as those scientists's.
That's one of the perks of living (or in my case going to graduate school) in central New York, the Adirondacks water table feeding the region is of exceptionally high quality, with the Lake George area being more or less the Gold Standard in the country for sustainable development, at least as far as water quality goes.
I'll do my own testing of course, and since this is kind of turning into a side project alongside my professional research, I might be able to get some instrument time with laboratory grade water testing equipment to make doubly sure that my tap water is safe for my aquarium.
Any idea how big fish need to be to be kept with this species safely? Reading through that study you posted of G. polyuranodon in captivity, they left rainbowfish alone, but went after smaller gobies.
When my aquarium were in 1.004/1.005 sg, my G. Polyuranodon lived in peace with E. Rhodochilus, Uropterygius Micropterus, Clown Loaches, Yoyo Loaches, Monopterus Albus and Polypterus Senegalus.
Later, I evicted all non-morays because of the fluctuating of salinity between 1.005 to 1.008 sg.
But there were totally absolutely no accidents during the several months of them together.
Damn, that's an enormous tank. Do you think a deep 150 gallons (that's 120x60x76) would be adequate for one of these guys, or would it be necessary to go even larger? After about 125 gallons it seems like the prices of setups start skyrocketing.
By theory, max length of G. Polyuranodon is 1.5 meters (150 cm), but the biggest ever I've seen is only 90 cm, and that's a wild-caught speciment. So, I think if you acquire a small G. Polyuranodon of 30 centimeters and keep it in a medium-sized aquarium, maybe it won't grow bigger than two or three times its original length.
Right now I'm hoping to get a juvenile of less than 20 cm, the smaller the better, and keep it in a grow out tank for a few years while I save for a more comprehensive setup. Since they seem to grow about 20 cm yearly going off of that study of them in captivity, I'm hoping I'll be able to get a few years out of a cheap 230 liter/60 gallon tank, it's 120 cm x 30 cm x 60 cm, and I'm planning to run it with a massively oversized sump/overflow box setup for the full size tank, so hopefully waste won't be to big of a problem.
sounds like a good plan (y)
Juveniles are cuter, easier to handle, and will take bloodworms until they're bigger. (Just don't feed them exclusively bloodworm though).
Juveniles are cuter, easier to handle, and will take bloodworms until they're bigger. (Just don't feed them exclusively bloodworm though).
So after some deliberation, I've put together a tentative growout setup for this project, plus my rationale for some of the choices
1x80 gallon frag tank 48"x24"x16"
1x Fluval FX6*, which will be passing through
1x 300W Hydror inline heater
1x Emperor Aquatics Smart Lite 80W UV Sterilizer**
1x Finnex Planted+ 48” LED Fixtures
1x Marineland Bio-Wheel Penguin Power Filter Size 400****
1x Eheim Skim 350 Surface Skimmer
* An FX6 is overkill for this tank, but in the final build I intend to use it as my redundant filter system.
** From the manufacturer's documentation I've seen about eliminating protozoa via UV, this wattage is appropriate for the FX6's effective flow rate of around 570 GPH. This is the single priciest piece of hardware in this build, but since this is a scaleless fish I'm not inclined to take any chances.
**** The importance of filter redundancy is a lesson I've learned the hard way.
1x80 gallon frag tank 48"x24"x16"
1x Fluval FX6*, which will be passing through
1x 300W Hydror inline heater
1x Emperor Aquatics Smart Lite 80W UV Sterilizer**
1x Finnex Planted+ 48” LED Fixtures
1x Marineland Bio-Wheel Penguin Power Filter Size 400****
1x Eheim Skim 350 Surface Skimmer
* An FX6 is overkill for this tank, but in the final build I intend to use it as my redundant filter system.
** From the manufacturer's documentation I've seen about eliminating protozoa via UV, this wattage is appropriate for the FX6's effective flow rate of around 570 GPH. This is the single priciest piece of hardware in this build, but since this is a scaleless fish I'm not inclined to take any chances.
**** The importance of filter redundancy is a lesson I've learned the hard way.
Looks like a nice setup, I'd love to see the pictures when it's done (y)
Because I live in Indonesia, my setup is simpler than yours. No temperature regulators needed. Just two Amara SP1200 submersible filters (18w, 1000 liter per hours capacity, powerhead and biofilter built-in), one aquarium neon lamp and two Amara aerators.
Because I live in Indonesia, my setup is simpler than yours. No temperature regulators needed. Just two Amara SP1200 submersible filters (18w, 1000 liter per hours capacity, powerhead and biofilter built-in), one aquarium neon lamp and two Amara aerators.
