progress of the aro noob

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Status
Not open for further replies.
dayak;4828886; said:
almost bought seachem stability recommended by a member here, if i did might cause disaster and got flamed again here when reporting the progress, good thing i consult with my LFS and they recommended prime instead,than i remember bomber..thanks bro ur adviced confirmed :)
i just applied the seachem prime into the tank and see if that take care of my problem and also will have to do 25% 3 times a week WC untill the problem fix

It's almost like you're choosing to ignore every single thing I've said to you.

First of all, Stability and Prime do different things. They have different functions. Prime detoxifies ammonia and nitrites and nitrates, while leaving the first two available for bacterial consumption. Stability contains the bacteria needed in an aquarium (somehow, I don't know how, but they've managed it). Yes, you could use only Prime, except you'd be adding Prime to the water every day for six weeks, battling to detoxify the ammonia and nitrites each time they climbed again (which happens very rapidly and continuously in an uncycled tank) until the bacteria establish themselves. With Stability, you cut that down to one week, because you're introducing large amounts of this bacteria.

And no amount of ammonia and nitrite is fine. They should be zero, always. But this isn't an issue in a properly cycled tank; the bacteria do all the work for you, so you don't have to worry about constantly changing water to battle ammonia and nitrites.

And, the more water you change, the longer it takes for the bacteria to reach levels capable of coping with your bioload. In order for a large population of BB to spring up in your tank, you have to leave the ammonia and nitrites in the water for them to feed on.
 
i gotcha roberto, but the prime is what i need for now, i was lucky enough to meet my LFS owner and talked about it for like good 10 mins on my specific problem, she did identify my issue off the bat.
i was holding stability and the prime when talking to her i ended up only taking the prime home and told me to do 3 25% WC for a week on my case and should be fine
 
Gshock;4828128; said:
Ideal? your ammonia HAS to be 0. Theres a reason why we establish a cycle. If it didnt HAVE to be zero, we wouldnt HAVE to cycle a tank. Problem is with YOU in the sense that you can't take advice...
i take input not a command thats u call advice:screwy:
 
really?..... really? do you have a clue what you are saying? i don't think so. you have had great direct advise on this thread and you say it doesn't have to be 0? "bartender o' bartender... ah yes, i'll have what hes having!" before you try 'aro101' you should try 'nitrogen cycle and its effects on the aquatic life 101'. also i never posted anythinig before i told you to go away...lmfao...you need to listen and then review then listen some more. i can't belive the mods are alowing this guy to post this network of stupidity. ignorence is one thing, but to just out right reject reallity, proven reallity many times over, only to substitute it with just plain gibberish. F'N WOW!!!!

also about your butt herting. your confused it's your fishes butt that is herting cause it is the only one getting boned.
 
Okay, here are two scientific sources, rigorously peer reviewed, that might make you understand why people get so incensed when other people so flippantly claim that ammonia is acceptable in some levels.

Gill structure has been studied in fish exposed to various ammonia concentrations. Gill damage resulting from exposure to acutely lethal concentrations was relatively minor and unlikely to have been a primary cause of death. Alternative toxic mechanisms have been discussed. Following long-term exposure to ammonia there were severe histopathological changes in gill structure and oxygen uptake may have been seriously impaired. A high incidence of disease was also observed.


http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1095-8649.1976.tb03990.x/abstract

A review of the published literature on effects of ammonia on fish indicates that un-ionized ammonia alone is probably not the cause of gill hyperplasia, indicative of, or previously attributed to, chronic ammonia poisoning. The maximum safe concentration of un-ionized ammonia is unknown, but in many cases it is not close to the 0.0125 mg/L value commonly accepted by fish culturists.

Note: 1mg/L=1ppm

http://afsjournals.org/doi/abs/10.1577/1548-8640(1985)47<135:AAFFC>2.0.CO;2
 
I am listening and processing the input/advice some of the great members over here. the thing is some of u like to flame if ur advice not followed. atleast some of other noob members can read and they might follow urs without u knowing it. or u wanted to be known that people take ur advice?
even if u dont give me advice i would still preveil, its just i like to discuss it here in my own thread of my progress to know whats works and whats not.
if my aro died because my way of doing it, be it..call it it cruel or whatever but atleast lesson learned.
 
thanks again roberto for lesson from the link u provided.
can u consider what im doing like a research to find it out so they can put it on that link LOL
joking aside, we will see how my tank and fish work out :)
 
dayak;4829497; said:
I am listening and processing the input/advice some of the great members over here. the thing is some of u like to flame if ur advice not followed. atleast some of other noob members can read and they might follow urs without u knowing it. or u wanted to be known that people take ur advice?
even if u dont give me advice i would still preveil, its just i like to discuss it here in my own thread of my progress to know whats works and whats not.
if my aro died because my way of doing it, be it..call it it cruel or whatever but atleast lesson learned.

I have not seen anyone flame you. Some people may have been curt and succinct, perhaps even a bit annoyed, but no one has flamed you. Flaming is pure criticism without any intellectual input or helpful advice.

Others have learned these lessons for you, no more fish need to die. If you can constantly dose the tank with Prime to keep the nitrogenous waste nontoxic, then fine. I highly doubt it, though. There will be some points, perhaps at night, when the levels rise enough to harm your fish, and like I showed you, chronic exposure leads to permanent, sometimes fatal damage.
 
lesson #1

your "turboed" cycle is a proven fail before you thought it up.

lesson #2

arowanas are sensitive to ammonia and nitrite.

lesson #3

cycled tanks have the benifical bactiria to handle the ammonia that your fish produces and turn it into a nontoxic removable item.

lesson #4

arowanas are predators, large ones at that. predators produce lots and lots of ammonia.

lesson #5

all this info has been provided to you in this thread, other threads and stickies

lesson #6

this is why you need to research before you get a fish. if you don't understand something ASK about it FIRST! then after you have all the info you need to be asking about get the fish you would like to and now have a ton of new found knowladge about.

lesson #6

if some one points out that you are in the wrong, and is then backed by 100's of fellow 'experts'. change your ways to follow the right way explained to you. their is a difference in a noobs learning exp and just plain being dumb about everything you have been told.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
MonsterFishKeepers.com