purigen
- Thread starter eh1421
- Start date
Yea.
To quote the site
"Purigen™ controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds."
So it removes the dissolved organics before the bio filter can break them down (less food for the bacteria.) That's how I interpret it.
Someone mentioned not letting purigen fully exaust and always have a 2nd bag that you can use while the first recharges (to avoid a mini cycle.)
I'm also curious what to do when treating for illness, because if it needs to be removed then you risk a mini cycle, which would harm the fish even more.
To quote the site
"Purigen™ controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds."
So it removes the dissolved organics before the bio filter can break them down (less food for the bacteria.) That's how I interpret it.
Someone mentioned not letting purigen fully exaust and always have a 2nd bag that you can use while the first recharges (to avoid a mini cycle.)
I'm also curious what to do when treating for illness, because if it needs to be removed then you risk a mini cycle, which would harm the fish even more.
it sure sounds good, but if it kills my bacteria, I ain't using it. my bacteria are just more reliable than this new fangled stuff. call me old fashioned....MilitantPotato;595546; said:
it doesn't kill the bacteria in your filter. Militant's comment about 'less food for bacteria' was an assumption that because purigen removes the dissolved organics before they can turn into food for bacteria. I just cleaned my purigen and didn't have it in for about 3 days while i cleaned it. During the time the purigen wasn't in the tank my nitrates didn't have any noticable change. no mini cycle. The water was still crystal clear. which surprised me.
MilitantPotato;595505; said:Hey Radley
I think it's common for newer/uninformed people to overstock and not change water accordingly. Unfortunatly I think those types of people make up the bulk of fish keepers. That 100ml per 100gal for 6 months seems a huge stretch, maybe even misleading.
I have the same view, it's not there to pick up slack but hopefully keep the water just a little cleaner for the fish (which it does.)
I've not used either of those two products, but I have to wonder if they had alot of hype behind them when the technology in them came to market.
I'm not a fan of chemical filtration, call me a naturalist. I generaly feel all ya need is dechlorinator and ferts for plants. I don't even run carbon unless I'm removing meds or we had rain recently.
Great E-mail, hopefully we don't get a cut and paste answer or some off the label sales pitch.
I'm hoping for a person to person email coming in the next few days and will post when it comes. I realize they exaggerate on the lifespan before recharging but I dunno. I agree with you, I don't use carbon either. I had to use the Clarity because I rushed rinsing the gravel and the flow in my tank would never let it settle. Removing carbon caused a mini cycle in my tank.
Steve_89;595521; said:
AGREED!
sqratch;596214; said:
The ammonia and nitrite get taken up by the bacteria a lot quicker than they get taken up by the purigen. Nothing is there to grab the nitrate so the purigen grabs it. If you take out the Purigen, and the tank were to mini cycle, ammonia and nitrite would spike first. Purigen has never caused a mini cycle in my tank, but carbon has.
This product is not a replacement for carbon, bio-filtration, chems, and really has no effect on those things. It is IN ADDITION to all of those things, and it helps remove undesirables, it does not solve the root of the problem: your fish produce waste, and most biofilters don't remove as much nitrate as we'd like.
Would purigen help me out in my case?
I have a 125 that I guess you could say is slightly over stocked, however, I do have plenty filtration. I am running two EMP 330, one XP3, and a DIY W/D pushing about 900GPH. I do weekly (well every 5-7days) %50-60 water changes. My problem besides my tank being over stocked is that my tap water sucks. I get an ammonia reading of about .5ppm and a nitrate reading of about 15ppm out of the tap. So when I do a water change I actually ADD ammonia to my tank and temporarily get an ammonia reading of about .25ppm and on good days my nitrates are around 15-20ppm. By water change day my nitrates are around 40-60ppm.
Would purigen help keep my nitrates below 30ppm by water change day (every 5-7 days)? Ive been thinking about building a drip system but Im having problems finding some parts. HELP!!
I have a 125 that I guess you could say is slightly over stocked, however, I do have plenty filtration. I am running two EMP 330, one XP3, and a DIY W/D pushing about 900GPH. I do weekly (well every 5-7days) %50-60 water changes. My problem besides my tank being over stocked is that my tap water sucks. I get an ammonia reading of about .5ppm and a nitrate reading of about 15ppm out of the tap. So when I do a water change I actually ADD ammonia to my tank and temporarily get an ammonia reading of about .25ppm and on good days my nitrates are around 15-20ppm. By water change day my nitrates are around 40-60ppm.
Would purigen help keep my nitrates below 30ppm by water change day (every 5-7 days)? Ive been thinking about building a drip system but Im having problems finding some parts. HELP!!
Doh, don't use API dechlorinator.
I just pitched 10 bucks of purigen after some research, just orderd 2L of prime. Live and learn.
Also, you can use stress coat or amine based dechlorinator in your tank, but do not use any dechlorinator that is amine based during the recharge.
I just pitched 10 bucks of purigen after some research, just orderd 2L of prime. Live and learn.
Also, you can use stress coat or amine based dechlorinator in your tank, but do not use any dechlorinator that is amine based during the recharge.
