Setting up the 100 gal... finally

[Sarahmander]

Setting up my 100 gallon w/ 30 gal sump next week. I have black sand and manzanita wood (tannins are gonna suck) for in the tank and then seachem matrix, filter floss, and seachem stability for getting my sump started. It has three chambers that flow into each other through the bottom of the dividers. What order should I put the filtration in and in what chamber? What else should I add?

 

[Sarahmander]

Also, I have an inline heater on my canister filter for my 40 gallon, and I am nervous about putting one directly in the sump because I have heard of them blowing up or leaking or something scary. Any suggestions on a reliable brand or alternative methods?

 

[magpie]

I know that twentyleagues and J jaws7777 know a bunch about sump stuff.

Can't wait to see how this turns out!

 

[Rocksor]

Generally for filters you want to clear out any debris before it hits the bio-media, hence the sump sock for water coming in for a sump. You can substitute coarse sponges before the first baffle. After that you do bio-media, and leaving the sump you want more mechanical media to prevent detritus from the bio-media entering the aquarium, something like fine finer filter sponge.

When putting a heater in the sump, just have it submerged enough to the minimum waterline of the heater when the sump pump is off.

 

[twentyleagues]

Generally for filters you want to clear out any debris before it hits the bio-media, hence the sump sock for water coming in for a sump. You can substitute coarse sponges before the first baffle. After that you do bio-media, and leaving the sump you want more mechanical media to prevent detritus from the bio-media entering the aquarium, something like fine finer filter sponge.

When putting a heater in the sump, just have it submerged enough to the minimum waterline of the heater when the sump pump is off.

Yup. Sounds good mech, bio then return pump heater so on. You can put more mech in the final chamber too if you want. I use titanium heaters with a finex controller. As long as you get a good brand you are good. I like the titanium ones for multiple reasons. Durability and remote controls are the number 1 and 2 reasons.

 

[Rocksor]

Recommend putting the sump pump and heater on the same surge protector that you can turn off when servicing the tank.

 

[Sarahmander]

Thanks, guys! Also, I am not using RODI, just seachem prime. Should I add things like zeolite or carbon? It also came with a UV light and a water chiller. I need to wait on the UV for the bacteria to establish, right?

 

[twentyleagues]

I wouldnt use it yet and really tbh they are quite ineffective for most applications. To kill most pathogens you need huge doses of uv. More then what average lights supply or at slower flow rates then what is really usable. They arent bad at controlling algae/green water blooms. But again really ineffectibe overall.

 

[Rocksor]

If you bought the UV used, assume the bulb is no longer effective. Different flow rates vs wattage through the UV will determine what it is good for, whether to kill bacteria, floating algae, or parasites.

Skip the zeolite and carbon, especially during a cycle. You don't need to remove the tannins, it's actually good for the fish.

 

[tlindsey]

You don't need to use carbon or zeolite replace with some ceramic bio or bio media of your preference.