starting to plan my 2500 gal.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
convict_breeder;790439; said:
i have an idea for ya

ok u have 2 windows right, well why not make all sides at least with one window so u can have a 4 sided view>?<
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Depends on how thick the glass needs to be, and how much it's gonna cost. Also not sure if doing that will decrease the structural integrity of it. Since in my head this thing will be skinned inside and out with 1/2"-1" plywood. Your suggestion is the most desirable, but my wallet limits my dream. I am hoping to stay under $3500. We'll see though. Any structural engineers have any inputs? Thanks for the suggestion by the way, if possible I will do it, but I think i will stick with front view for now.
 
tnx, today is my birthday and my mom sent me a $50 gift card to home depot, so guess what I am buying with it? That's right the timbers for the bottom! Yay. Should have the bottome frame done soon! lol.
 
are you going with a liner? if so why with all bottom bracing? why not let the liner sit on the floor. save the money from all the extra lumber for filtration. i would run cables from one side to the other to reinforce it. just my thoughts and remember you asked:naughty:
 
Hope I can help, I have some experience building large plywood aquariums. This will be an exciting project, can assure you putting it together is more fun than taking it down. In frame #18 I noticed 3 pillars on the back of the tank and one in the front. Is this a revised version or will you have a total 4 windows, 2 in front and 2 in back? If you are going with two windows I think we should talk about the exoskeleton/frame a little more.

The reason Im asking is because your walls will be stronger using a two window single sided viewing design because more pillars spaced closer together will provide better support for the plywood skin. Using 4 windows will result in fewer pillars and more pressure being applied at fewer points, in other words your objective should be to distribute the pressure out as evenly as possible throughout the entire frame without localizing it in fewer areas. Another thing to consider when using 4 windows is that your margin for leaks will increase due to the additional sealing area of the other 2 windows. Simply more potential for a leak. With plywood tanks many (not all) can leak where the window mates to the wood by displacing a small ammount of sealant, I call this the blown head gasket theory, it works like this. Depending on how your windows are sealed (most ply tanks sandwich silicone to plywood) and the with of the silicone gasket, the pressure can cause the silicone to be pushed out like a blown head gasket on a compression cylinder. Framing the window like the photo below is a good way to help prevent this kind of a leak because it provides two sealing areas, one at the face, the other along the edge.
Might have missed it, but will you be using one or two layers of plywood for the internal lining? Based on your ht Id recommend two layers of 3/4 plywood.

glass_lim.jpg
 
will be going with 2 windows in the front. How much bracing do you think I will need along the sides and the back? My plan is simply a rough draft for now, but I will be buying the materials to start this project within the next couple of weeks. Should I frame the glass before I put it on the aquarium or after the rest of it is complete?
 
I think you mentioned it being 4fT tall right? if so I would space 4x4 pillars about 12" apart. For front to back cross bracing a couple of ideas come to mind. I like to use steel rods encased in conduit, or you could use long sections of threaded rod. The conduit could be PVC tubing with the ends countersunk into the walls by about 1/2". The metal rod is inserted throught the conduit and the threaded ends use square plates or fender washers and nuts. This can look unsightly so you may want to cover it up with a nice peice of hardwood trim. Cable can also be used, similar to suspension bridge design but on a horizontal plane.

At any rate it looks something like this (lower pic) but across the top.

Another way is to just use 4x4s with brackets, wood tear out where the fasteners screw in due to the pressure is a concern so I prefer the threaded rod, but Ive done it this way also.

The pics arent exact but hopefully will give some idea what Im talking about, i.e 2x4s instead and washers on sides and bottom instead of top.

diverse02_th.jpg

3_plater01.jpg
 
I am thinking of doing a 14 by 4.5 by 5 foot myself out of cinder blocks in the basement....

As for glass or Acrylic, if you are going to get any large Pleco's like an Adonis, I would go with glass. I have a sneaky suspicion that the plecos would scratch the acrylic very fast. Considering how fast my Adonis chews through everything.....
 
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