Awesome setup, well done!T1KARMANN;4777769; said:tank size 1000 gal
sump size 300 gal
pumps 4 x 5000 liters per hour
4 x 25 watt UVS
24 hour drip via a HMA no need for RO the drip changes 150 gal per dayle
stock
2 x female p14 16 inch disk
1 x female leo x BD 13 inch disk
1 x male p14 15 inch disk
1 x 26 inch chilli red asian aro
1 x 20 inch dat pulcher
2 x 12 inch dat indo
1 x 14 inch dat cambelli
1 x 20 inch lince cat
1 x 24 inch tigrinus
10 x 12 inch tin foil barbs
Stingray filtration- share your experience
- Thread starter Energy
- Start date
Mine is 300Gals
Only 2 Rays and a Fire Eel in the system
30 - 40% Water change weekly plus 2 auto changes of 30-50gals (auto top up with dechlorinator dosing)
Eheim External with in line heater for backup mechanical
5X3X2 Sump with Eheim 1260 pump - 2 UVs
Deltec Nitrate Reactor fed with RO/Vodka doing pump (auto dose)
Tank Plumbed for Waste and Freshwater
Nitra Ghost ion exchnage resin run as backup if Nitrate reactor cannot keep up.
My goal is Nitrate < 20 ppm constant
Monitored and run by Aquatronica (same as T1) Measures PH, Temp, Level and Redox in Nitrate Reactor.
Only 2 Rays and a Fire Eel in the system
30 - 40% Water change weekly plus 2 auto changes of 30-50gals (auto top up with dechlorinator dosing)
Eheim External with in line heater for backup mechanical
5X3X2 Sump with Eheim 1260 pump - 2 UVs
Deltec Nitrate Reactor fed with RO/Vodka doing pump (auto dose)
Tank Plumbed for Waste and Freshwater
Nitra Ghost ion exchnage resin run as backup if Nitrate reactor cannot keep up.
My goal is Nitrate < 20 ppm constant
Monitored and run by Aquatronica (same as T1) Measures PH, Temp, Level and Redox in Nitrate Reactor.
sponger_2;4781627; said:
You won't see any difference, it is prevention and safety...it's not just new fish that add the risk...it can be a slow build up of bacteria or introduced by food. Have a look at the hyperplasia thread too.
Just Toby;4784409; said:
some oldsalts overhere against of over relying on UVC as according to them it may make the fish immune system weaker. a healthy fish will not be much impacted by the normal bacteria that frequently live in the water..except those new parasite that come with new fish or plants..
md1017;4776515; said:I am also a newb in owning freshwater rays. Just wanna share my view on this. I think it does not matter with the size of the display tank. It needs to be large enough for the ray. I think ideally a ray must have at least 1 meter cubic of water and I know this is sometime hard to fulfil because technically if you want to put 2 rays in a tank you must have a tank of 2 meter long and 1 meter wide and 1 meter high. Thats 200cm x100 x 100, equals to 2000 liter of water or 400 gallon. And that's huge. That's why from what I read from this website or from other websites, having rays in a big pond is more ideal. I know not everyone can build a 3x4 meter pond due to size.
But as long as the size of the tank is sufficient I think there wouldnt be a problem.
YES and NO- a 400 gallon is huge for a school of tetras,but probably O.K for one or two rays. Many of these fish are capable of growing a 2 foot disk size which can be tight in a three foot wide tank- especially if they have a roommate.
As for filtration. My experience told me that you must at least have flow rate of 5 times the tank volume. So if you have 400 gallon of tank, you must at least have filter pump that can do 2000 gallon per hour. Having 2 or more filters are better. IMHO, no such thing as over filtration. Well you pay more electricity cost...but that's your financial risk of owning such a big tank.
Nice rule of thumb but there are many different ways to filter a tank and i.e. the purpose of this thread.
For a fish tank water change should be at least once a week 30% i think that's just a general rule of thumb. I own and breed plecos. I do water change every 2 days to try to immitate (not even close maybe) the condition of fast water in rio xingu. Rays come from the same place as plecos (amazon, rio xingu etc) so I think the water change should be around the same interval (twice a week) However I am still a newb in this matter maybe the more experience ray keeprs can tell more.
I agree- the more water changes the better. BUT- there have been successful systems that do very little water changes- I think firemedic has one.
IMHO, I dont think you need RO system for keeping rays. It will become problems more than beneficial. As RO water is just a plain water with minimum or even no mineral contents. You need to put some minerals to make RO water usable for fish. As far as I know people use RO water to soften up the water. As I said above, I used to breed pleco (L333) and I don't use RO water to soften the water as they breed in normal conditioned tap water. So I don't think it's necessary. There are many ray owners in my area that don't use RO system. I think it's expensive and totally un necessary. I don't know if others think differently. I am just speaking out of my experience.
I use all RO- just because there are seasonal chemicals that get added to tap water and I don't want to risk one of those slipping by and contaminating my system. Otherwise I would use tap just to have some extra minerals.
As long as you have adequate filtration, regular water change, appropriate size of tank for your rays. I think they will be happy...just like any other fish.
Bingo- you got it!
Cheers
Cheers back at ya!
T1KARMANN;4777769; said:tank size 1000 gal
sump size 300 gal
pumps 4 x 5000 liters per hour
4 x 25 watt UVS
24 hour drip via a HMA no need for RO the drip changes 150 gal per dayle
stock
2 x female p14 16 inch disk
1 x female leo x BD 13 inch disk
1 x male p14 15 inch disk
1 x 26 inch chilli red asian aro
1 x 20 inch dat pulcher
2 x 12 inch dat indo
1 x 14 inch dat cambelli
1 x 20 inch lince cat
1 x 24 inch tigrinus
10 x 12 inch tin foil barbs
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Sonny503;4777858; said:
Glad to hear that. It seems that many ray keepers like to over filter and keep multiple units as opposed to a normal system.
As the reports are coming in I can see redundancy is also a common denominator for many of the systems.
Just from looking at T1KARMANN system it is using multiple pumps and units for the same function. If one should go down his system would still operate without a problem.
They can also be pulled offline and serviced without interrupting the normal operations of the biological filter- which is really where the "balance" of any aquarium is at.
