The Valves on the Fx5 are used to control the Fx5's flow. It states that in the manual."Hagen" give me a better FX5 something maybe with an adjustable flow,
Personally, I would modify any filter I get. Most problem threads are due to the filter shutting off and people don't know that is normal. The other main problem is the micro bubble issue and this is 99% of the time due to clogged media.what I don't understand is if the FX5 is so good, why are there a million modification threads about it and a million problem threads about it?
If you can mod a filter to accept 8-10L of bio media, any mechanical media of your choice with 100% bypass free operation and have 600 GPH which is more than most filters out there, than that is really good. Now it sucks Hagen didn't think of it but o well.. The 2262 may be up around 500-700 GPH. That is the only other filter that could compete comparing specs.
I agree! You shouldn't. The Fx5 was very poorly designed but it does a great job at its task.you shouldn't have to modify a filter so much if it is designed properly.
You really don't have to modify the filter the way I did. I did it for increased media, no bypass and the option to run fine particle filtration without it clogging in 4 days and so I don't have to remove the bio media to clean the sponges.. BUT you can buy 20PPI foam from the link in my sig and cut them to fit more snug for less chance of bypass and to filter finer particles with the huge amount of surface area.
So you really do not have to modify the filter, but it could have been designed differently.
Those instructions lost me. Sounds like a lot of knob turning lol. I do agree pond filters may be the way to go in some cases. BUT, buying a pump to run those requires more energy than a canister filter will use for the same flow.Backwash:Open the safety ball valve that is mounted in the "waste" line. Rotate the main valve knob to the "Backwash" position. The pump may be running during this operation. Turn the agitator handle left to right and repeat approximately 10-20 times until the water comes out of the waste line nearly clear.If the agitator handle becomes difficult to move, turn the main valve to the "rinse" position to clear the accumulated debris from the agitator mechanism. Then, return to the "backwash" position and continue moving the handle to clear out the remaining debris.RinseThe rinse operation works the same as the backwash except the water goes through the filter in the opposite direction to help remove any clogs inside the filter. Rotate the main valve knob to the "rinse" position. Open the shutoff valve at the "waste" line. Turn agitator handle left to right approximately 10 times. When the water comes out nearly clear, rotate the main valve knob to the filter position, then close the shutoff valve on the waste line to resume filtering. The gauge should read 0-2 PSI normal filter pressure.Filter CleanoutAt the end of the season the filter can be cleaned and winterized. If you backwash regularly, or have a bottom drain and/or non-freezing conditions you may never need to do this.