Time to try a wooden aquarium

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
To get as much as possible out of the Pond Armour this how I mix it: I use a 1/3 measuring cup.pour 1/3 cup of water in a paint cup and mark it. Then pour two 1/3 cups in and mark it.

Dry the cup and wipe it down with denatured alcohol.

I take a nail and punch a lot of holes in the rims of the cans so the product can drain back into the can. Use two different nails so you dont cross contaminate them.

I pour part B (honey) first to the line and add a cap of alcohol. Stir until mixed. Then to the same cup I add part A (colored or clear) to just above the line depending on how much alcohol you used. Stir for 30 sec.

This makes up the most I like to use at one time.

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the_deeb said:
How are you planning to fill all those pocket holes before epoxying? If you don't, they'll suck up a ton of epoxy. Kreg sells little pocket plugs but you have to trim them to flush fit a 3/4" depth hole.
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I was planning on using epoxy, I could not believe how much it sucked up on the first coat. For my sump I used wood bondo to fill them. Worked very well.
 
Santa Fe Discus said:
I was going to attempt a plywood aquarium ten months ago, but chickened out. So instead,I built a 60 gallon wooden sump inside my 75 gallon aquarium stand. Baby steps, right? Project went well, still holding water.

Below is a description of my current discus tank system I built because I was afraid of the wooden aquarium idea, but for some reason was less afraid of drilling seven holes in my aquariums even though I have never drilled glass before.

R/o filter to the 75 gal reservoir in the garage from there I can add water to my 120 gal discus tank. I drilled the glass and put two over flow boxes. Each box feeds a 75 gal aquarium. The first then feeds a lower refusing that I built out of plexiglass under the 120 gal then back to the main tank, the second feeds the 60 gal wooden sump I mentioned above, then back to the main tank. The wooden sump also has an over flow that feeds my roses, etc.. out side. No draining the aquarium, just open the valve at the reservoir and the water just runs through the system. Each body of water has its own heater and up went my electrical bill.

Moving forward with no written plans, just ten months of thinking it through.

The Plan:

120” long x 31” wide x 30” tall. Width is limited by a door I have to use.

3/4 ish 96’ x 30” glass with 92”x28” viewing area maybe an inch or so larger. Not sure what the over lap should be.

Where do I get glass? any plate glass?

I will use 3/4 birch, doubled on the bottom, and maple 3/4 inch trim.

and lots of Pond armor.

no turning backnow!

Fun!


Tim
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IMG_1120.JPG I thought I would just fill the pocket holes with pond armor. I cant pour enough into the holes. I used bondo to fill the holes on the sump I made. Makes for an extra step, but to get a solid 10' structure I feel the pocket skcrews add an incredable amount of strength. I want to prevent all racking and tortion while moving it.

I dont like waiting on epoxy, so I used up old epoxy I had as a primer last night. The Tan is new, and will go with my background. 2 coats on the bottom.
 
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