You ALL lied to me!! This isn't Easy!

[cypher1024]

Instead of just putting a ball valve on the return line from the pump to the tank, why not install a T-piece and run a hose back to the start of your sump and put ball valves on both?

That way, you can set up your sump to recirculate while you're doing water changes (or any time when the overflows aren't running).

You can also open the recirculate valve a little if you want less water going up to the tank.

 

[Crispy]

One thing you can also do is lower the small box of the overflow box, the one with cut grid inside the tank. The lower the box, the faster the water will drain

+1... and having a bit weaker return pump would help.

 

[KaiserSousay]

What don`t kill ya, just makes you stronger.
Now you know that sumps/overflows are not plug-n-play filtration systems.
Now you will look at all the posts telling others that they need to get a sump with new eyes.
You will think to yourself, Man..all the hassles I went through with mine.
Then you will tell an OP,
Yea man, you need to get a sump on that bad boy...

 

[fox3]

When setting up the sump to get your Power_On and Power_Off levels you fill the display until it overflows into the sump and stop when the sump reaches a "safe" level and then mark the sump Power_off. The more volume the better but leave a safety margin for Murphy. Turn power on and watch the display for trouble while the system balances out.

If
the display is going to overflow open the divert bypass or throttle down the pump until you feel it is at a safe level. You drains are the bottleneck, check for restrictions and try and increase flow.

else

the system stabilizes you get a get an acceptabl Display Tank operating level. Hopefully your pump is submerged enough to get a few days for eveporation without gasping air. Mark the sump Power_on.

Then the tweaking begins

 

[tyndall72]

Just go with the flow it will all work out lol

 

[Zander_The_RBP]

600 GPH on the boxes are their theoretical maximum it will almost never run at that consistently. Getting 1190 gph out of the pump is way too close to comfort for me (any restriction on the boxes and your going to have a flood) get another overflow box and you will have no need for a ball valve


i always aim to have my overflows handle atleast 300 GPH more than my pump would pump at given head height

 

[scottswald]

Everyone told me that upgrading to a larger tank would be easy; filtration, better water quality, growth and well being of the fish themselves.....well, you all lied!
Obviously I had the error part of my trial and error today in setting up my new 150 gallon. It would probably be easier to explain with pictures, but typing this all out and hitting the keyboard as hard as I can with my fingers kills two birds with one stone!! (Anger Management)
My set-up is; 150 gallon tank, with (2) 600 gph HOB overflow boxes spread apart. They each have a 1" drain- I used 2" corrugated flexi-pipe running down to the 40 gallon sump tank. They each drain into a 2" PVC tube with filter socks attached. Water runs through the baffles in the sump to the return pump chamber where a Danner Supreme 1800 gph return pump pumps the water back through a 1" clear, flexible tubing. There's 5' head height, which the manufacturer says this pump will yield 1190 gph at this height. (Should be an almost perfect match) Right now, there's no special return, I just have it coming out the 1" tubing. So I primed the U-tubes in each overflow box to start the siphon and water began running down into the sump. The sump was already about half full, so I powered up the return pump and it quickly drains the sump and overfills the tank way too fast. So, naturally, I turn off the return pump for a minute, but forget about the reverse siphon that the return pump has created and in a few seconds hear water flooding the floor. I of course think, oh ****, the main tank has a leak or has cracked somewhere. I finally figure out it's the sump and I grab an additional hose laying nearby so I siphon out a bunch of water into the yard.
Now that I've broken several keys on my keyboard, the question(s);

1) Will a ball valve on the 1" return line be able to slow down the return pump to better match the overflow boxes?
2) Would hard line plumbing be better as I need to create more drag/friction to slow water return?
3) Would putting a directional return head in the tank create enough pressure to slow the return line?
4) Would drilling bulkheads in the tank itself just be easier?
5) Is a 40 gallon sump big enough for this tank?
6) Anybody want a free tank and stand? Very few bullet holes in it!

What am I doing wrong?

buy a third overflow giving you a 1800 gph overflow rate ability?

 

[flowerpower]

Yea, overflow should always have a higher capacity than he return pump. What you could do is increase the head height of the return (might look a bit silly, but it will work) or, add more angles and detours to the return. I wouldn't rely solely on a ball valve because then, anybody who decides to mess with it will start a flood.
If it makes you feel any better, I flooded a few times when I first set up my sump. It's all part of the learning process.

 

[TwistedPenguin]

I've got lots of big tanks and they are easy. It's that whole 'sump' thing that's a pain in the butt. (Which is why I don't have sumps).

 

[CHOMPERS]

... and have a lifetime membership at Gold Fish Cracker Keepers.com!

I can help you out with that.

What don`t kill ya, just makes you stronger.
Now you know that sumps/overflows are not plug-n-play filtration systems.
Now you will look at all the posts telling others that they need to get a sump with new eyes.
You will think to yourself, Man..all the hassles I went through with mine.
Then you will tell an OP,
Yea man, you need to get a sump on that bad boy...

1) Will a ball valve on the 1" return line be able to slow down the return pump to better match the overflow boxes?

Yep, but adding another overflow is actually the better way.

2) Would hard line plumbing be better as I need to create more drag/friction to slow water return?

It will help slightly but it isn't the solution. It may work but it's a craps shoot.

3) Would putting a directional return head in the tank create enough pressure to slow the return line?

Another craps shoot, but it's very unlikely to help.

4) Would drilling bulkheads in the tank itself just be easier?

No, it wouldn't be easier. It will be a huge pain in the butt. But the rewards will make it worth it (if done properly).

5) Is a 40 gallon sump big enough for this tank?

Barely, but yes. For a first sump, it is on the small side. It doesn't give you much wiggle room.

6) Anybody want a free tank and stand? Very few bullet holes in it!

What am I doing wrong?

Sumps are certainly on an advanced level. The first one is always the hardest. When you get it all figured out, you'll wonder why it seemed so hard. And then every other filter system will seem elementary.

I didn't see if anyone recommended drilling a syphon break in the return plumbing. It is a hole you drill just under the water line in the tank. It allows air to enter the return plumbing so that it doesn't drain your tank into the sump.

The hole needs to be below the water line (normal water level in the tank) so it doesn't spray. However, planned spraying can be a good thing.


If noise is an issue, let me know and I'll tell you how to set it up for silent running.