You ALL lied to me!! This isn't Easy!

[Toby_H]

Once you understand (and remember) every dynamic of physics involved, sumps are easy (and fun). But overlooking one point can make a big mess. Thank God you were smart enough to test run it in the garage.
　
　

1) Will a ball valve on the 1" return line be able to slow down the return pump to better match the overflow boxes?

　
Yes… This will be under utilizing your pump which is a waste of energy (energy = money), but it is a quick, simple, easy fix for your situation…
　
Using a T fitting to divert water back to the beginning of the sump is also an option. This will prevent you from simply “wasting” the energy with a ball valve but since sending the water through the sump a second time really doesn’t do anything beneficial.

2) Would hard line plumbing be better as I need to create more drag/friction to slow water return?

　
You are using smooth vinyl hose right? Hardline pumping the return will utilize tight 90* bends as opposed to longer gentler bends which will add a bit of friction, but it will be so very little I doubt you’d even notice.
　

3) Would putting a directional return head in the tank create enough pressure to slow the return line?

　
You can slow the return with a spray bar, but adding a couple 90* bends at the point of return will do so very little it will be unnoticed.

4) Would drilling bulkheads in the tank itself just be easier?

　
It will be a lot more work, but will work a lot better… I will elaborate below.

5) Is a 40 gallon sump big enough for this tank?

　
As long as it’s designed right you could use a 10 gal… but using larger offers more design options…
　

6) Anybody want a free tank and stand? Very few bullet holes in it!

　

　
　
　
This is why HOB overflows often do not function to their “rated” flow rates…
　

　
When the pipe coming out of the HOB overflow to the sump is 1” ID and is 9” long or more it will flow at 600 gph. A longer explanation of this can be found in Chompers sticky about pipe sizing in the DIY section…
　
But (there’s always a but)… If the siphon between the tank and the HOB overflow box functions at less than 600 gph, then your overflow box will function at less than 600 gph…
　
Since the water levels in the tank and the overflow box are so very close, a 1” ID pipe will NOT flow at 600 gph. If you consult the stickie I mentioned above, Chompers explains that a siphon will NOT flow at it’s maximum gph unless it has a minimum vertical drop. The “vertical drop” in the illustration above is the difference between the water level in the tank -vs.- the water level in the overflow box.
　
This is critically important when making a DIY overflow box… With store bought HOB Overflows that have the design of the link below, the siphon from the tank to the overflow box is so much larger (considering area of the overflow) than the drain pipe in the HOB overflow, it is supposed to be able to keep up. But naturally, the higher the functioning water level in the HOB Overflow is the lower the functions gph of the siphon will be (due to a smaller vertical drop).
　
http://www.thereefshop.com.au/images/Octopus_Siphon_FS-1.jpg

 

[buddha1200]

I just put ball valves on the return lines and cut them back until i get the desired result(usaully only like and 1/8 of a turn works)and a check valve on the returns is always good with such a small sump.

 

[brianhellno]

A lot of good advise in here. I'd say your two best options would be getting another overflow or slowing the pump down with a ball valve. Personally I would just slow the pump down with a ball valve. Its cheaper and since you already have two intakes a third one would seem like it would add more plumbing and cost to the system than just adding an extra valve. Also from my understanding throttling back the pump with a valve is the equivalent of adding more head. The pump will run fine with no problems if you decide to go that route.

 

[daveydoodle]

Alright, I'm feeling better now. I was mistaken on the return line, it's 1 1/4" (not 1") clear, vinyl tubing. I added a 1" ball valve today, as well as a directional return head to help slow the return pressure a little. The PVC return I did today was just to see if this would help; this is NOT what I'm going to use in my tank - again, just testing ideas. here are some pictures: (1-2) The first two are the operating levels of the 600 gph overflow boxes, (3) the next is the normal operating level in the sump, (4) quick DIY return head (just for testing purposes), (5-6) the next two are the overflow boxes, (7) newly installed ball valve, (8) sump intake tubes, and finally (9) the water level after a simulated power failure.
It seemed to work just fine today, with one exception; noisy overflow boxes. Is this what a Durso (sp?) pipe is for, to reduce or eliminate noise? if anyone sees any obvious mistakes from the photos, or suggestions, PLEASE advise me. it would help.

 

[daveydoodle]

Bump....anything from the pictures? Or does everthing look acceptable. Just want any ideas changes before I drain this and bring it inside!

 

[fishguy306]

I would say drain some water out of the sump, it looks high in my opinion. If the pwer were to go out it would lead to another overflow for you I would guess.

 

[CHOMPERS]

Is this going to be a saltwater system? If it is going to be freshwater, you'll need to rework the sump.

 

[Bazinga]

from what ive read its a tank for his CL and his aro

 

[daveydoodle]

It is going to be a freshwater tank - (1) 20" inch Clown Knife and (1) 20"+ Silver Arrowana. Maybe a few others here and there, but basically designed to house these two fish. With regards to redesigning the sump tank, I have left out of the picture the foam filter that goes between the baffles, and the structure that houses the mechanical filter pad, the drip plate with bio balls and scrubbies, etc. If it helps, I can photograph the sump "put together". Is that what you meant, Chompers? I was hoping for an idea on the noisy drain; is that what the durso pipe is for? Is there a best design for that? Thanks

 

[CHOMPERS]

You don't need to post a picture. If you have the parts, that's all that matters.

The durso or stockman devices are for quieting the oveflows.