You ALL lied to me!! This isn't Easy!
- Thread starter daveydoodle
- Start date
1) You're right - the water height on the standpipe is very high. Is there any restriction further down that we can't see in the pictures?
2) Raising the internal box up wont do anything to lower the water level in it. It's a pressure problem. Unfortunately, that style of U pipe over the top of the tank doesn't generate much pressure. If you dropped the standpipe T much lower, it should help to bring the water level down in that internal box.
2) Raising the internal box up wont do anything to lower the water level in it. It's a pressure problem. Unfortunately, that style of U pipe over the top of the tank doesn't generate much pressure. If you dropped the standpipe T much lower, it should help to bring the water level down in that internal box.
Bump?? Any other ideas out there about the overflow boxes or Durso pipes before I break it all down and move it inside the house? Hey Chompers and nc_nutcasae.....where are you? You've been very helpful thus far, please chime in on these last few questions!! 
I was down at the retirement center scoring with some old raisins. Oh wait, did I say that out loud?daveydoodle;4027371; said:
I didn't realize that I was gone for an extended period. The fish down at the fishing hole are spawning and I got some tilapia eggs (blue tilapia are mouth brooders). I have them tumbling and have to change the water every 8 hours. It keeps me occupied.
1. The water level is determined by the water flow. The overflows are at their maximum flow. You really need to add another (or two).daveydoodle;4021145; said:
2. None of the above. Add one or two more overflows.
3. After it ages, the gasket can deteriorate or accumulate growth that can cause it to not seal completely. It will be wise to periodically check up on it. The best thing to do is to design the system to not depend on one.
You could just swap out one of your overflow boxes for a bigger one. Eshopps makes a 1,600 gph that works well and is reasonably priced (about $100). It does have two drains though so a slight mod to the sump would probably be in order.
If you throttle back the pump does this cause the water level in the overflows to fall to the appropriate level? If so you have some options. You can get another overflow, bigger overflows or just leave the pump throttled back. It all depends on what you want to do.
Okay, this project is still going! I had a some time away from the tank and MFK for a couple weeks in Florida Keys - Vacation!! (P.S. Now I want a Monster Saltwater setup 
)
I'm coming down to the last few obstacles. First, I'm finding that I use the ball valve on the return line to control the amount of water that stays in my sump - ex: If I open up the valve all the way, the water is pumped into the tank too quickly and the tank goes dry / the overflow boxes cannot keep up. So I turn the valve down about 1/3 to restrict return. It seems to work fine, as I've had it up and running for 24 hours now and I marked the weater level with a dry erase marker on the outside glass of the sump baffles and they are remaining constant. The question is, 1) can the return head (opening for the return line into the tank) also help control the water levels? If I were to drill smaller holes and fewer of them in the return head, would that create greater back pressure to help control the water level in the sump, as well as help to create more current in the tank with a higher output at the head?
In the previously posted picture (white PVC "T" return head), this is what I'm using in the return. I'm going to paint it black, and attach it to the wall. 2) Are there any better ideas out there for DIY return heads? The substrate will be sand, so I was trying to evenly disperse it as not to blow sand everywhere. Another question, 3) what do you use to paint PVC with that can be submerged in the tank water?
) I'm coming down to the last few obstacles. First, I'm finding that I use the ball valve on the return line to control the amount of water that stays in my sump - ex: If I open up the valve all the way, the water is pumped into the tank too quickly and the tank goes dry / the overflow boxes cannot keep up. So I turn the valve down about 1/3 to restrict return. It seems to work fine, as I've had it up and running for 24 hours now and I marked the weater level with a dry erase marker on the outside glass of the sump baffles and they are remaining constant. The question is, 1) can the return head (opening for the return line into the tank) also help control the water levels? If I were to drill smaller holes and fewer of them in the return head, would that create greater back pressure to help control the water level in the sump, as well as help to create more current in the tank with a higher output at the head?
In the previously posted picture (white PVC "T" return head), this is what I'm using in the return. I'm going to paint it black, and attach it to the wall. 2) Are there any better ideas out there for DIY return heads? The substrate will be sand, so I was trying to evenly disperse it as not to blow sand everywhere. Another question, 3) what do you use to paint PVC with that can be submerged in the tank water?
Finally got the return problems solved. I went with a smaller PVC diameter as well as smaller and fewer holes in the return pipe. I need to add sand tomorrow. Anyone wash their sand in the tank itself? I have nothing else in there, and the tank is close to a window so it should be easier. Also, will a 200 and 300 watt heater in the 40 gallon sump control the heat well enough in the 150 gallon tank? I want them out of the tank for aesthetics. I'll add a picture tomorrow!
I would always wash sand before putting it in the tank...
even the cleanest forms of sand will have 'dust' from the sand particles grinding against themselves during shipping...
those tiny particles are still the same material as sand, just smaller. Thus they will cut/rip/grind your filter media causing unnecessary wear and tear.
It takes very little effort to wash it in a bucket in the bath theb / utility sink...
I always use/recommend 2W per gal for heating. your entire system is 190 gallon so I personally would target 400W worth of heating. 300W might do tyhe trick for you... Placing the heater in the sump will work fine.
even the cleanest forms of sand will have 'dust' from the sand particles grinding against themselves during shipping...
those tiny particles are still the same material as sand, just smaller. Thus they will cut/rip/grind your filter media causing unnecessary wear and tear.
It takes very little effort to wash it in a bucket in the bath theb / utility sink...
I always use/recommend 2W per gal for heating. your entire system is 190 gallon so I personally would target 400W worth of heating. 300W might do tyhe trick for you... Placing the heater in the sump will work fine.
