You ALL lied to me!! This isn't Easy!

[daveydoodle]

Chompers-

I only suggested posting a picture because you had mentioned I would need to rework the sump. Was that comment because the baffles are incorrectly or ineffectively placed, or because in the picture I was missing the later mentioned parts?

 

[Toby_H]

I think since they weren't pictured/posted he was concerned they did not exist...

Since you say you have them and they are logicly arranged, it seems he trusts you...

But I'm sure if you post pics/descriptions, any number of people will comment on them...

 

[CHOMPERS]

I think since they weren't pictured/posted he was concerned they did not exist...

Since you say you have them and they are logicly arranged, it seems he trusts you...

Yep.

Was that comment because the baffles are incorrectly or ineffectively placed, or because in the picture I was missing the later mentioned parts?

Because the parts were missing. And it is set up like a saltwater sump (nothing wrong with that). Saltwater sumps need the baffles to remove bubbles due to the higher density of the saltwater. In freshwater systems it isn't a problem. In SW sumps, instead of bio-balls, they use live rock and/or protien skimmers and need the wide center area like yours. If you ever wanted to convert to SW, it would be super easy to do with your system. It will also be an excellent selling point if you ever decide to part with it.

 

[daveydoodle]

Clear, thanks. I also found a good web site for the DIY Durso Standpipe to hopefully eliminate the constant gurgling sound. The Durso doesn't effect flow into the sump does it? I want to make sure I'm running as close to 600 gph per overflow box as possible. I plan on using 1 1/4" PVC for the Durso Standpipe, as recommended by this website.

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

Thanks again. I'll work on it this Friday and hopefully everything will go smooth. I've already had my share of problems!!

 

[Toby_H]

The Durso Standpipe approach is awesome in many applications...

When you have a straight pipe coming up from the drilled hople in the bottom of the tank and just ending... it is very likely to create a little cyclone and suck air. Sucking even the slightest little bit of air will considerably slow the flow rate.

The Durso Standpipe approach has the "intake" facing downward as opposed to upward, which makes it less prone to sucking air. This the Durso Standpipe approach is much more likely to function at the proposed maxiumum of a certain diameter pipe.

Keep in mind that "maximum flow" for a certain sized pipe requires A) a true siphon, & B) a minimum verticle drop.

 

[daveydoodle]

Well, the Durso Standpiped went very well; easy and cheap to build, assemble and function perfectly - no noise. A question about this would be do people have experience in drilling a different size vent holes, and does this vent hole effect the flow fate?
Other than that question, they worked great! Still working on the PVC Checkvalve and it's fiittings. Had to use some PVC CEMENT to make everything fit. It's drying overlight and I'll show all tomorrow.
Thanks for everybody help

 

[daveydoodle]

Sorry for all the typo's and misspelled words; don't drink and MFK!

 

[CHOMPERS]

Sorry for all the typo's and misspelled words; don't drink and MFK!

Forgiveness comes with sharing. Pass me a beer.

 

[SemperFish]

Its the second time that is easy! Through much toil is the path of enlightenment. now you can share what you have learned.

 

[daveydoodle]

Okay, a couple updated pictures and of course,....a couple more questions. Based on the pictures; 1) why is the water level so high in my overflow boxes? Shouldn't it be about half way over the "T" valve on the durso pipe? It seems to be stable and operate fine there, but should it be lower? Is the vent hole too big in the top of the Durso Standpipe? (that counts as all 1 question ) 2) Do I need to raise the level of the over flow boxes inside the tank? They're completely submerged! Is their too much water in the system, or can I just raise them up? 3) Any reason this sump check valve I installed to eliminate the reverse siphon that it created if the return pump ever looses power won't work? It's rated at over 2000 gph, and it's just a regular flapper check valve?
I left the system up and runnng and marked the water level in the tank and in the sump. Checking on it every 20 minutes or so (just in case) after about 2 hours the water level was stable, so apparently it's working correctly. Now just drain it all, and move it inside. I also need to change or decide on something for the return head inside the tank; the T was just something I made from spare parts to try and impede the return flow. Any other thoughts, or anything I missed?