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Check out http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/ they have a great reputation and pricing, I'm planning on getting my RO/DI unit from them.

Its how they reproduce asexually. Mine typically does this when stressed, I've herd of some that fragment all the time and become like weeds in the tank.

I keep my painted in a 29 gallon reef, and feed him once a week. Overfeeding is the leaking cause of death for frog fish, I would not feed any more than 1-2 times a week. Also watch your nitrates, anything over 10-15ppm may affect their health. For more info go the the frogfish forum at...

My 29 And the monster of the tank

The is no difference in the tank itself. He may be referring to it as a Reef Ready tank, which means it has some holes drilled in it to allow you to add a sump. Sumps are very useful in reef tanks, if your unfamiliar with them you mightwant to go do some research on reef central.

I keep two ball pythons and a spotted python in a rack system with two slots empty for rescues. Before you knock something take the time to learn about it first. Shoe box racks are typically used to house newly hatched and juvenile snakes. My rack containers are approximately 33 inches...

I do not remember the link, but there was an article on wetwebmedia.com which discussed potential problems with micro bubbles in saltwater, and their effect on fish. As long as the bubbles are not extremely small they should not hurt your fish, but they may promote increased salt creep.

I agree. Just make sure you use a good heater with temperature control. I have a 250 watt halide pendant on my 29 and I still need the heater at night.

See if any of your LFS can get dry lace rock. Its generaly alot cheaper, and will become "live" over time. About 60% of the rock in my 29 is lace rock, and I'm planning a 120 with 100% lace rock. (I want the tank to be 100% aquacaltured)

Generaly airbubbles are considered bad in salt water, they can cause gill problems in many fish.

The salt water master test kit, and the reef kit are the same. The reef kit just gives you a calcium test and I think a phosphate test, but does not include ammonia and nitrite tests. Salifert is considert the best consumer grade test available.

Most live, and lace rock is lime based. I am unsure of its exact makeup though. The lava rock the origanal poster is laking about is scouria, and it is far different than any rock used for aquacalture.

Using fish to cycle is an outdated method. Its relatively expensive (compared to other methods.) and its cruel to the fish. Just put in a few jumbo shrimp for a few days. When your ammonia and nitrites read zero the tank is ready, it generally takes 3 to 4 weeks.

I don't know the chemistry behind it, but I do know silicates are bad for reefs. Next time you go to a fish store look at phosphate removers, most say they also remove silicates.

That lite could work for some basic corals like mushrooms, but you may wish you had more in the long run. T5 lights are great, but I'd go for a high output fixture. (usally denoted as T5HO) Lights from home depot are not the correct spectrum.

I've read on reefcentral.com that lava rock is a bad idea because it can leach silicates into the water.

Have a plan of what you are going to talk about, and try to interrelate the topics to try to get a unified point across. The average human can retain 7 ideas plus or minus two. Keep this in mind and only use a few animals with 5 interrelating facts. For example, adaptations that make a lizard...

The problem could be you sand, it can hold nitrates and slowly release them just like phosphates. I'd say large weekly water changes, reduced feeding, and the use of RO or RO/DI water should take care of the problem.

The sad truth is that over 90% of savannah monitors in this country don't live past one year due to improper care. The best source of information I have found on savannah monitor care was written by a feild biologist activley involved in monitor conservation, and a savannah breeder. The book is...

The trick to getting use to bite is to expect it to happen. I agree with venomous keepers: its not if you get bit... its when you get bit. My worst is a tie between a 2 foot rescue savanah monitor, and a great horned owl through a welding glove.