I am redoing this soon to clean up the appearance. For now it function over form. The pics:I would love to see some pictures man! I will definitely be installing a drip at this point. Time to research.
To control the temperature I use a thermostatic mixing valve (Honeywell model: #AM100C-UPEX-1LF) which lets you set the degrees to a constant temp. You have you splice into hot lines as well off of any hot water source. To splice into the lines, this approach will set you back $200 in parts ($180 of which is the valve) vs $10 with a cold drip. This will replace most watts used by heaters so it pays for itself. You’re a plumber. Help a guy make this look better will ya?!?
Now that we have warm water supply, it gets filtered through a 5 micron sediment filter. This is important because cities will purge systems every so often. This keeps your carbon filters from plugging at that time. Then through x2 Matrix CTO carbon block filters. Two stage to remove chlorine. Make sure to get your municipal water supply annual report to know how they treat. Sometimes it’s chloramine.
If you are on well water this whole step can be skipped all together. I would still do sediment though. No reason not to.
These are all RO fittings and valves from Bulk Reef Supply. This is quality gear. The Home Depot stuff works well. The amazon cheap stuff is horrible. Spend here.
I split x1 line into x4. Each has a 4 GPH (Gallon Per Hour) drip emitter. Since they are RO quick disconnect, they can swap out for lesser GPH emitters in seconds. I replace emitters annually since they are cheap. So with the turn of a sexy valve it goes from 4-16 GPH or any other configuration you like. This is where I left off last night on th 800 setup.
Obviously this design can be improved by someone like yourself but this is my DIY approach that is proven and works. Hope that helps